I posted a while back about difficulties getting my keyswitch unlocked, to change it. I let it be for about a month, having other things to attend to, but got back to it today.

After unsuccessfully trying a variety of improvised wire rods, I experimented with my replacement switch and marked the rod to indicate how far it should be sliding in, so as to contact the release tab.

Lo and behold, it would appear something is jammed in the slot. I am way shy of the depth required to contact the tab, about 1/4 inch. (And I have experimented with the key in different positions... that is the best case position.)

Any pointers on drilling out the keyswitch? I have to replace the electrical switch as well.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Did you bevel the ends of your wires exactly as the manual illustrates? It is an important detail as I recall. They wont get past the retainer otherwise.

The wire has to be the exact right diameter also. I had a very frustrating time getting mine out until I struck upon the right tool. For me it turned out to be a bicycle spoke the I bend and beveled exactly as the manual said. Previous attempts with bailing wire and other things didn't work.

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

I initially had a problem getting any kind of wire all the way in. Then I found a heavy duty needle. The kind used for canvas work etc. It had a long taper from the point. By jiggling the switch a bit, the point found it's way all the way in.

Seems to me, that required switch position was not exactly as others posted. I never did try drilling, so can't help with that. But I think someone had posted how they did that.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I appreciate the advice, but I am at the limit of my patience for what ought to be a straightforward job. I really find it weird that Mercedes designed this setup, then did not make a purpose-built tool for it.

I agree, Graham, that the ideal spot is different from what is shown in the FSM, though one of the YouTube videos more or less shows it more accurately. My switch has a lot of slop in it.

I have so far used everything suggested as a tool: a variety of kitchen spears, large paper clips, etc. Looked for a coat hanger but all of mine are too thick. Baling wire cannot be had around here.

I have experimented with filing them off to various profiles/tapers.

Right now I am parking the car with the key in the ignition all the time, as I can no longer remove it and be assured it will turn again (I have to leave it just off the 0 position when parked, so it doesn't engage the lock). This is getting old.

I will see if I can get hold of the sort of needle you describe, Graham. I am really not sure the bicycle spoke idea will work on my lock, as the opening is really REALLY small when compared to the Meyle replacement cylinder. I assume it's a factory part, as the doors and ignition match.

Again, thanks for the input but right now that drill be lookin' mighty fine right about now.... .

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

You said you cannot insert the tool far enough. That sounds like something is stuck in there. No tool will work unless you remove what's stuck first. I have used a thick paper clip and it worked great. The FSM gives a diameter of the tool needed. Many things will work. That spring loaded pawl on the tumbler that must be retracted is not that stiff and a paper clip should work fine. You are better off with a tool that is not brittle and can snap off like a jewelers screwdriver. A softer tool like a paper clip is actually better in that respect. Maybe a snapped off jewelers screwdriver is stuck in there? Try using a magnet on a paper clip and pull out whatever is stuck in there.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I just tried a big paper clip (KEY IN POSITION 1) and could feel the spring on the pawl as I pushed. I bent the clip with it fully seated and measured it. It went in to a depth of 11/16". I tried turning the collar and it turned a little and caught and my fingers was not strong enough to turn it further. Sometimes you need to use pliers on the collar to turn it. Wrap the jaws with bicycle inner tube if you don't want to mar it.

EDIT: Thick paper clip is 1.25 mm diameter, exactly what the FSM calls for.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Just drop the column, very easy....pull the steering lock/ignition.....and then work on it....tapping it may cause what ever is stuck in, to fall out...

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Any progress? Looking back at

"Lo and behold, it would appear something is jammed in the slot. I am way shy of the depth required to contact the tab, about 1/4 inch. "

If you can only go in 1/4", it may be possible that you did not have the slot lined up with the hole. The key is what needs to be lined up with the dot on the collar (position 1) to expose the hole. Use a flash light , you have to be able to see the hole where the pin must be inserted.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

from my experience, working on a sample and working on the real thing installed in your car is different. i couldn't feel when the button inside the mechanism was being depressed when it was in the car. did you try unscrewing the collar when you thought you might have the button depressed? it took me a while to realize how the whole thing is supposed to operate. i worked on mine forever thinking it was jammed, at first. i know in that youtube video it shows something popping out, but mine didn't.

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1981 NA 300D 310k miles

Very true. It's a complicated procedure and everything has to be done just right. The collar can be jammed against the detent so that the pin cannot be pushed to retract it, so you must turn the collar back and forth while pushing the pin in. Marking the depth the pin must go in with paint so you know you're in. Keep pressure on the spring loaded detent while you turn the collar till it is completely unthreaded.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

The tool of choice is a "jumbo" paper clip. This is the perfect size to press the tab down and let the lock ring rotate.

It's one of those things that is impossible to describe but once you do it it can be done in your sleep.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Funny, I have a new cylinder on my desk. I can't get a jumbo clip into that hole Same when I took out my original. A smaller clip goes in, but then it is not stiff enough.

I needed something with a point to get it started. And thin enough and stiff enough so it didn't collapse when a force was put on it. I think I read somewhere that there were differences in some lock cylinders.

BTW, I wouldn't put a working cylinder back in my car unless I disabled the steering lock first (as described by Diesel Giant).

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I have also come to the conclusion it is helpful to have the patience of one of those guys who builds model ships inside bottles... AND about ten fingers on one hand. And a quick-release steering wheel.

I did try turning the lock sleeve while jiggling the wire, but not consistently as I was misled by the instructions to not see that as part of the job... I expected it to magically pop out when I hit the sweet spot. Armed with this new info, I shall make some fresh attempts.

I agree with Graham, there are differences between the cylinders. My new one is Meyle and the slot is visibly larger than the one in the car now, which I assume is OE as it matches the doors.

"Jumbo paper clip" isn't exactly an SAE standard . I collected examples of about five different large ones from work, over the last month by raiding different printer rooms and only two of them will fit and one of those isn't strong enough for the job. And these, along with kitchen skewers, were systematically filed down to different tapers. Somewhere they should give academic credits for this project.

This gives me hope. Possibly I will have more success if I try sleepwalking. LOL.

I did read some further posts over on BW and at least one guy had the same experience as me and found that the sleeve was jammed in place. He dremeled the front of it off to pop the cylinder out, but even then had a hell of a time getting the sleeve off and ended up damaging his dash in the process.

I have come to the conclusion that this system was conceived by the same prodigy who suggested where to place the w123 fuse box. As god is my witness may I never have to touch anything else on this car, that Herr Crapenfurbrainen had a hand in.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I used one of those Needle Nose Pliers that is bent 90 degrees and grabbed about 1/4 inch at a time and shoved the 1/4 inch in. Not much room for it to bend like that.
And, that was done with wire that was more flexiable than a Paper Clip.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel