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#1
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Ball and socket linkage
One of the ends of my Electromagnetic actuator, electronic idle speed control (ELR) linkage arms broke off. This is one of the 'ball and socket' type of connectors. Does anyone know of a source for these?
Thanks for any help. |
#2
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First source is the dealer / EPC - get the part number - internet search for that part number - go to findpart.org and see if there is an equivalent if the dealer price is too much to bear...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Are You Speaking of the Plastic Socket ends - 603
If so I was quoted by the dealer @ about $140 or so apiece (two in the area).....The short rods found on a 617 motor / car are adjustable and fit...and they are metal.
I found some at the junk yard for $1 each.... Member "Sixto tip"
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1986 300SDL 440,xxx |
#4
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Yes, the plastic socket ends. The steel part of the socket broke in half.
I figured out what the part these go to is. It's the cruise control servo. I have ALLDATA and two FSM for this car and none of them go into much detail about this unit. Not a single picture of the installed unit. There is nothing to give me part numbers for the connecting links. If push comes to shove I buy the socket ends from McMaster-Carr and just build replacements. |
#5
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If you post up your vehicle chassis type I'll have a go at finding it for you.
(Probably best to add such information in either your post or your signature)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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000-991-90-22 left hand thread.
000-993-09-61 right hand thread. Look up the numbers in the parts catalog at the top of the page. I found the following from another thread Jeremy5848 posted. This is what you are talking about? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Here is the link from the IP to the cruise mechanism in replacement metal above original plastic. I forgot to take a picture of the "long" link but it is the same sort of invention. I learned the hard way that the two link rods in the OM606NA engine do not come apart -- the plastic ends, unlike earlier versions, do not unscrew from the metal rods. The subcontractor seems to have somehow softened the plastic, inserted the rods, and pressed the plastic back in place around the rod, which has notches so that it sticks firmly in place. This means that you cannot simply unscrew the plastic ends and screw on metal ends; you must find a replacement rod with metal ends that is the same length as the original. The plastic-headed rod is half the weight of the all metal one but IMHO this is another example of cheaping out on the part of Mercedes. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#7
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Close. The ones on this engine are flat sheet metal, folded into a small channel iron shape. It is slotted and has screws to make it adjustable. The ends are fused to the steel so not really repairable.
The steel one in your photo is what I will likely make up. I can buy the socket ends for $1.98 and threaded rod is cheap.
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1988 300SE 83K+ 1991 350SDL 283K+ |
#8
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Is this the flat sheet metal rod you are talking about? Thanks again to Jeremy.
#23 Jeremy5848 I found this site that sells the Sockets, more you buy, the cheaper they are. Looks like they also sell the internal spring clip. DMCBH-5: DMCBH - Midwest Control Products Corp. I just pull Socket/linkage Rods when Iam passing through the yards, never know when Iam in need for one. Be sure to keep the Ball/Socket well lubed to keep them from rusting and to keep them from sticking and binding when pushing down on the long skinny Peddle. MB says to use ATF in the FSM, but I use grease. I have seen them so rusted in the yards on the junkers, that the Rod and or bracket they attach to just bends w/o getting them to pop off. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#9
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That's the one. Only both 'socket' point the same direction. The lady I bought the engine from is sending me a set.
Thanks for the reply.
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1988 300SE 83K+ 1991 350SDL 283K+ |
#10
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PS not ELR.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#11
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You are correct. My bad. The unit in question is the Cruise Control servo. I have three manuals for this car and not a one shows this servo. I had to do a part number search to find out what it was.
Went to our local MB shop and he gave me a rod style linkage. It was about 1" to long but a die and 5 minutes work made it right. I now have throttle control again.
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1988 300SE 83K+ 1991 350SDL 283K+ |
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