|
|
|
|
View Poll Results: YES! or NO! | |||
YES! Buy it. | 9 | 50.00% | |
NO! NEVER! | 9 | 50.00% | |
Voters: 18. You may not vote on this poll |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
talk me out of buying this car or talk me into buying this car
I'm waiting to hear back about a potential wagon in FLA right now. But a wagon I spotted that's about 2 hours away is still playing on my mind. I think I'll be able to get it for just over parts car pricing or at that price, but it has rust.
There's rust on the wheel wells behind chrome trim, jack points(?), and some bubbles and visible rust around the hatch. I'm inclined toward "no" because of the jack points, but I keep thinking about this car. Talk me out of it and please give reasons. It runs and runs well enough to make a 2 hour journey. I'm thinking it could be a good winter beater. Possibly even fixable. Should I go check this thing out and see how far on the underside the rust extends? Check the floor pans? I've heard you can get rid of rust permanently, and I've heard you can never get rid of rust. What do you think about this thing?
__________________
1983 300TD 240k Thistle Green Auto (Euro) [sold] 1984 300D 240k Petrol Green Auto 覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧 "You know, times are changing. Ladies can do stuff now and you're going to have to learn how to deal with it." "What? Were you saying something? Look, I don't speak Spanish." |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I'd check it out. If it's not so bad as to be immediately dangerous and you can get it cheap, go for it. Then drive it until something expensive breaks, or it rusts to the point of being too dangerous to drive, then part out or junk. I wouldn't bother trying to fix it. However, I live in an area where most cars are rust free even when they go to the crusher.
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I've recommended an owner throwing away an MB engulfed with known rust. This, after viewing it and being able to get the car for free, and it was only 20 years old. If that gives any indication on how I view rusting cars.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I've seen W123s go to the crusher with far less rust than that.
__________________
CENSORED due to not family friendly words |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Was it driveable? If so, why throw away a free driveable car?
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Well, if it were a motorcycle, I'd of paid $$$ for it.
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
That would be a big rock solid negative. If it looks like that on the outside, my experience would tell me that everything i touch will be either corroded, broken, or on the verge of breaking.
NO! |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
anythings fixible.
those stupid fender trim pieces rust the heck out the fenders a lot faster than natural rust progression. bad rust there could be localized. worth checking out at least. rest of the car might be in ok shape for the year. fender repair is not impossible. i had worse repaired on my 240 and it looks decent. panels are avaiable new from klokkerholm. the standard result on this forum is everyone from non rust belt regions will tell you to run away. rust like that wont prevent use of the car if its decent elsewhere, so have a look before deciding. if the price is right, could be worthwhile as a spare parts car or winter beater. since its a wagon take a good long look at sls fittings and rear suspension components, those can be extremely crispy and correspondingly extremely expensive when they immediately start to leak and break.
__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Nope. Too rusty.
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Why don't you answer the question?
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
I went to fl for my euro wagon rust was crushing, but the drivetrain was flawless... Fl beach rust attacks the sheet metal and the doors, not lines or suspension... Look over everything, the frame is nigh indestructible, rusting out entire floor pan, jack points, fenders, and the car STILL will handle a slalom... But check the trailing arms and spring perches...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
I have some rust between the jackpoints on my 1987 wagon, not a big deal to me. A few days back, the link in the SLS, the small pin, snapped from rust and raised the rear end to full height. Bouncy? A little. I crawled underneath and pulled the lever down and scooted out quickly. Lots of what is under my car has crust but its solid otherwise. I have restored Fiats and others with way worse rust that OP's proposed purchase. You can stop rust and welding panels, even at home has never been easier.
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
I've been looking at panels today and they're much cheaper than they were even a few years ago.
I think this is love. It must be this wagon. I'll probably call them in the morning about going to visit, they're even closer than I thought. Check the VIN before going, and then, if it's as good as I'm hoping, buy it and drive it home. If it happens, I'll post pics of course. The bf isn't pleased about this wagon, so we may end up with two(!!!) if the FL wagon comes through on the lower offer we put in. That is, if it isn't a rust eggshell like Vstech points out! Thank you for that advice, btw.
__________________
1983 300TD 240k Thistle Green Auto (Euro) [sold] 1984 300D 240k Petrol Green Auto 覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧 "You know, times are changing. Ladies can do stuff now and you're going to have to learn how to deal with it." "What? Were you saying something? Look, I don't speak Spanish." |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
I also want to say thank you to everyone for their input. If there's still more advice out there I'd love to hear it, but people's insights have been really helpful on this front!
__________________
1983 300TD 240k Thistle Green Auto (Euro) [sold] 1984 300D 240k Petrol Green Auto 覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧 "You know, times are changing. Ladies can do stuff now and you're going to have to learn how to deal with it." "What? Were you saying something? Look, I don't speak Spanish." |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|