E 30 1995 fuel line replacement question
 

I'm replacing all the hard plastic fuel lines on the E300 due to fuel leaks. Replacing the fuel filter as well. How do I prime this thing once I'm done? I don't see a pump.like I had on my 77 240D.

Thanks.

I use a shop vac to pressurize the tank, then leave the return line open to dump into a bottle.

you can just crank the starter, but I don't like to abuse it...

if you are changing the spinon filter, you should fill it with diesel prior to attempting to start prime the car!

Do yourself a favor and fill the pre-filter and canister filters with fuel first. Then crank until it starts. After 3 or 4, 30 sec cranks, let it sit a few minutes to cool the starter while you prefill the filters a second time.

Replace them one at a time starting the engine after each one. This unit is "self priming" which was not an upgrade if you ask me. Make sure you have a battery charger on hand. It took me 3 recharges to replace all my lines and get the pressure up.

Hmmm. I just cranked it with 3 or 4 30 second cranks and it eventually started. Once it starts firing, just hold the starter engaged until it really starts running. If you are doing the fuel filters make sure you fill up the can. You'll spill some as you maneuver it into place, but no biggie.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 422K

Is the blower part of a shop vac clean or dirty air? Just wondering since I don't know the answer. Another way is to inflate a big garbage bag (wave in the air) then hose clamp it to the filler neck and squeeze.

Which is the return line? I've replaced all 5 (well.... 4.... waiting for the 5th line to the back side of the injector pump. ) I did fill the spin on filter with diesel.

How do I prefilled the filter with out taking it apart? There is a small filter on the top side of the large one? Can I put fuel in there?

I have the intake manifold off to get to the fuel lines so no way to start it. Battery charger is toast so that's a no go.

That line on the back side of the IP needs 2 crush washers and an o-ring too. Hopefully you got them coming also.

If not here are the part numbers. This is for my 98 E300D turbo so confirm with EPC according to your VIN number:
qty 2 N007603012102 copper crush washer 12 mm ID 16 mm OD
qty 1 017-997-22-48 o-ring

This bit me when I did this job so wanted to pass on the lesson learned.

As far as cranking it, I just turned and held the key to the start position, it took about 3 tries. Don't be afraid to continue to hold the key after you hear the engine trying to run, and lightly push the accelerator to help it get going. You can go about 3 x 20 seconds on, 20 seconds off, before worrying about damage. If that doesn't do it then rest about 5 minutes and try again.

Filling the secondary filter
 

AFAIK, fuel poured into the primary filter hole will not go into the secondary. You have to remove the secondary (large) filter, fill it with fuel, and put it back. You will probably spill a little as it's hard to keep the filter level as you maneuver it into place. BTW, make sure the primary filter has an o-ring; new secondaries come w/o a new o-ring and it's easy to accidentally throw out the o-ring with the old filter. The engine will not start!

I found it convenient to fill about 3/4 full, then put the filter in place with its center bolt finger tight. Next, jam a wooden wedge under the filter to hold it in place while you remove the center bolt. Using a small funnel, complete filling the filter and put the bolt back in place and tighten. Remove the wedge and start the engine. Using some footfeed so that the engine runs at greater than idle will help the engine get over the inevitable stumbles as it works through the few remaining air bubbles.

Jeremy

http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/n...ilter_7790.jpg

OK, got all the fuel lines replaced. Yes I got the rubber seal plus the two crush washers.

The shop vac trick worked great. Pushed fuel through all the lines. Took on 20 second crank and she sputtered to life.

Thanks for the help.

The blower output is after the filter. So clean air. However, the HOSE unless it's a new vac will be dirty... So, I keep a clean hose for blowing duties only... (My shop vac has a removable motor for leaf blower use...):D

When I saw the thread title, I was like, "He's coming here for help with a BMW... ???"

I do that trick too, I also use a coffee filter in the funnel (sometimes I go OCD).

I only do this when the engine is hot - get in car, start engine and hold the accelerator at least half way to keep it running at 2500 rpm - it will misfire once or twice but goes smooth after that.

for the lines - I used to do them one a time then I installed a primer bulb and now I can just push fuel in the system and crank the engine. simpler.