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  #1  
Old 07-10-2014, 04:09 PM
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Location: Barrington, RI
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W210 AC Duovalve Questions

Haha....doesn't take long for a new acquisition to have problems.

On the 99 E300 I just picked up, I am experiencing the following: intermittent warm air (definitely hotter than ambient) coming out of the left front vent and the left rear vent while cold air comes out of the other three front vents and the right rear vent. There is adequate refrigerant in the system. There seems to be no rhyme or reason as to when everything works fine and when it doesn't.

One particular question: if the problem was with the duovalve, would that manifest itself with warm air also coming out of the left center vent...or not necessarily?

I've been reading some threads....I'll read some more...but just wanted to get my exact symptoms out there to see if anyone has any comments.

Thanks.

UPDATE: While it was sitting in driveway blowing warm out of left vent, I used that most precise and scientific of methods: I gave the duovalve a few good WHACKS with some pliers. Shortly thereafter, it was blowing cold! Maybe coincidental...we shall see.

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 154k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 172k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Last edited by shertex; 07-10-2014 at 08:35 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-10-2014, 05:11 PM
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'Mericuh
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  #3  
Old 07-10-2014, 08:26 PM
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Yup looks like stuck duovalve to me.

Pull parameters 03 and 04, that is your LH and RH heat core temperatures. Hold down REST for 5 seconds, use the left AUTO to change the parameter, the argument is on the right side display in degrees F.

However marginally low refrigerant on these cars manifests itself as the left side getting warm before the right side. Parameter 07 is the refrigerant hi-side pressure in Bar (multiply by 15 for PSI) and 08 is the refrigerant hi-side temp in Deg F.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #4  
Old 07-10-2014, 09:01 PM
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On the 98, it was cooling on the right but weak on the left....refrigerant solved the problem. On the 99, it's heated air that's noticeably warmer than ambient and refrigerant is fully charged.

$288 for a duovalve. I know some folks take them apart the clean them...I think I'd rather buy a new one.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 154k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 172k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #5  
Old 07-10-2014, 10:07 PM
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It's worth a shot to remove the assembly and clean it out first.

You do not have to remove the hoses nor will you lose more than a couple drops of coolant.

If you pull back the wire bails then you can lift the mechanism off the valve body.

It is simple to remove the tiki drink umbrellas and clean them and reassemble everything.

Just do not do what I did, lose one of the bails under the relay box. Had to take apart the whole thing to retrieve it. Tie some dental floss to each bail so that when it pops off you can save it from the abyss.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #6  
Old 07-11-2014, 09:48 PM
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Kartek did a write up concerning taking the dou-valve apart and cleaning it IIRC. I usually just gave mine a few good whacks with a rubber coated crescent wrench....when cycling the key didn't work.
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  #7  
Old 07-12-2014, 12:38 PM
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Talked to PO....he had some issues about 5 or 6 years ago, disassembled and reassembled the duovalve, and it worked fine for the remainder of his ownership. I guess I might try the same if my whacking regimen doesn't work.

This video is excellent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jhPEfLI45s

Kartek's write-up: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/242566-how-i-fixed-my-duovalve-w210-got-my-heat-back-saved-myself-$250.html

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 154k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 172k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Last edited by shertex; 07-12-2014 at 12:51 PM.
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