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#1
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How to use a power drill battery to run power seat in JY?
I have seen some people mention doing this. How is it done?
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#2
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All you need is a 12 volt battery and put leads on it.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
#3
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Depends on the chassis but most of these cars use 5 dc motors total per seat.
- cushion front up/down - cushion rear up/down - seat traverse forward/aft - backrest tilt forward/aft - head restraint raise/lower And of course the basic theory of a dc motor is that if you flip the polarity the motor will change direction. In order to do this, both motor terminals are brought to the control device. One motor terminal is switched to +, and the other is switched to ground, to make the motor move in one direction. The switching connections are reversed to make it go the other direction. The control methodology varies widely. Some cars have direct control of the motor voltage via the door switch. This method is used mainly on older models that do not have memory control. This is the easiest to hack, you just have to find the pair of wires from the switch that go to each motor, apply voltage from the tabs in your drill battery, and get the seat to move. 124s and 126s with memory seat use a control box underneath the seat. The door control sends commands from the various switches, to relays in the box, that actually control the motors. The motors have 3 extra wires, these are the feedback sensor that tells the memory box where the motor is at in its travel. This sensor is just a variable resistor like a slider on a sound mixer board. On these type boxes you have to get in between the control box and the motor. Unfortunately you might have a chicken and the egg problem here, because you can't get the seat up enough to get to the box. On this type you might be best served to find the thick red wire that is the power feed to the control box. Be sure to disconnect this wire from the seat box, and apply power to the terminal on the control box, and try to move the seat using the door switch. By the time you get to the W210/W140 the interface between the door switches and the seat control box is CAN bus. Yet more complexity to deal with since the door switch and the seat box get powered from different circuits. Very difficult to hack in the yard. Your best bet, especially if you are on the prowl for older models (like 123/124/126) is to get a copy of the wiring diagram and print off the pages for the power seat before going to the junk yard. Put the diagram pages in a notebook with sheet protectors.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#4
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Make up a couple of small cables with decent size alligator clips to connect the positive on the battery to the positive cable on the car and the negative to a ground or the negative cable in the car. Make sure there is a fuse in the appropriate circuit for the seat motor and hit the seat switch. Any decent size battery with about 12v will work. Might be easier to use one with leads rather than contacts.
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#5
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Quote:
You can try that, but I would be observant when hooking up. If you see big sparks, or your cable starts getting warm, then be ready to disconnect it. Some yards may not like it if they see you powering up the entire bus on the vehicle in their yard due to liability reasons. They remove the batteries for safety (and so they can make a few bucks on the batteries).
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#6
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I recommend building a cable to plug into the accessory connector in the driver's footwell. That allows you to bypass the ignition switch and energize the seat circuit or whatever other accessory you want to test.
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#7
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You could also use alligator clips and energize a specific circuit via the fuse box.
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
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