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W123 won't shut off and doors won't lock
Around the same time I changed the brake booster, master cylinder, and main vacuum hose I started having issues with the doors locking and the engine shutting off when I turned the key. The valve/manifold on the original vacuum hose had three barbed fittings where the new one only has two (I think the car is a Cali model).
In the "post booster change" picture I have placed an arrow and I am wondering if there should be a check valve there, perhaps this part: 116-800-03-78-M93. Maybe the original main vacuum hose valve had a check valve in it already... If not then are there any recommendations on what to inspect next? I didn't want to just start replacing things like the master door lock valve or the steering column shut-off valve without diging into this a little. The only information I have found is on older vehicles which appear to have a different vacuum setup. Thank you.
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'85 300D |
#2
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Diagram
I also have an '85 and while I cannot give a precise answer, I can tell you the routing you have is wrong.
I am attaching a diagram. As to your vacuum issues, you need to first establish what vacuum you are getting where the main line enters the booster. However, unless my eyes deceive me, in your pic there is a green vacuum line sitting disconnected. Your system cannot function properly with lines unhooked....
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#3
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This may also help
I can't see from your photos what is going on around the yellow splitter valve (not the correct term for it)....
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#4
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I dont think its an 85 cali car. The line to the alda is different. I dont think he has the blue flying saucer thingie.
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
#5
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All 1985s have the blue 'flying saucer' vacuum pod, not only Cali spec.
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#6
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Make sure that the brake booster is out of the circuit if you test for vacuum on the main line and have close to 0 vacuum. A friend of mine paid for a vacuum pump and install when the complaint was "no shut off".
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#7
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I think its a transplant motor. The alda nipple is different.
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
#8
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Quote:
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'85 300D |
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Quote:
Quote:
I have attached another picture from a different view. When I went to take the second picture I also found a solid black line that isn't connected to anything. The other end goes to a device on the firewall; I don't know what the thing on the firewall is. The part that is troubling to me is that the setup is really the same as before the master cylinder/brake booster replacement, both the good and the bad. Are both green and the black/brown devices one-way valves? if so then I should check to make sure they are still flowing only one way. Thanks for the help so far.
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'85 300D |
#10
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Your car vacuum system should be setup like a pre 85 car. You dont have the vacuum transducer anymore and your alda nipple is different than the 85s. I attached a diagram on post #12 here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/345916-mercedes-part-number-001-510-70-97-a.html The system wont let me repost the diagram on a different post. I hope its much clearer but i dont think you are going to need it.
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
#11
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Vacuum issues...a problem I know well!
The valve pods in the vac lines are all one way. Pop 'em out and blow. Or suck, whichever you prefer. If you can blow through both sides, they're bad. Also, the three way yellow valve by your break booster is a common fail point. Did you reconnect that green line that's hanging loose in the pics you provided? You mention a black line that's not connected to anything that goes through the firewall. If it's not connected in the engine bay side of things, that might be a problem. The cruise control line is usually black. However, there's also a black a vent line that goes through the firewall into nothing up behind the dash... it's just a vent for the vac that's not supposed to be hooked up to anything. Drove me NUTS trying to figure out what I knocked loose until I finally found someone saying that it's just a vent. If you've reconnected the green line and determined that the black line is the vent and you're still having issues, you can use a golf tee to temporarily cap off the lines from the three way pod by the brake booster. You want the lines that split into two on a Y shaped connector...usually a thick yellow and a thick yellow with brown stripe. These go to your doors and vac reservoir in the trunk, very common leak points. All you do is pull the line from the rubber Y connector and jam the tee into the rubber connector instead. Start your car, give it a sec, then shut it off. If it keeps going, then that line wasn't your problem. Hook it back up, then repeat the process with the other one. If this works and your car shuts off with the tee in either place, then you at least know which system is leaking. Then comes the fun of tracking that down. Oh, the hours you can spend... Good luck!
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Current: 1980 300D "Blush" 1985 300TDT "Walter" 1995 e320 wagon "Sopwith Llama" Greatly missed: 1985 300TD "R2D2" Don't really miss much at all: 1983 240D "Dee" |
#12
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Green and yellow is for the climate control. I would disconnect everything, and start slowly adding things until you see your vac level drop. Trace from there. I've had two interiors totally out tracking down vac leaks. It's worth it when everything works like it's supposed to.
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