WTH is that rattle? Oh its just my shock..

[RavenTBK]

Been hearing a new rattle the past couple of days. Appeared rather suddenly, along with the feeling of bouncy-ness in the rear. I had assumed one of the JY shocks I slapped on the rear a few months back had blown its seals, and I was simply hearing the rattle from the plunger. Knowing that its highly likely the used shocks are finally dead, yesterday I went online and ordered a *new* pair of Bilsteins rather than go back to the JY route. Hopefully they should be here next Wednesday.

Today, while sitting inside KFC, I look out the window at the car and see something odd poking out the undercarriage. Figured it was a stick, or some brush from the yard, and ignored it. I get back to the shop after lunch, and it was bugging me. I peer under the rear bumper and see the bottom of my shock simply hanging there free. WTF?

So yeah, thats why it felt like I had blown a shock, and that explains the rattle. *facepalm*

Now I just need to figure out what size goes back in there. Hopefully it'll survive if I remove one of the drivers side lower bolts and carefully trek up to the hardware store. #LivingDangerously

[Can't Know]

I'd first get it on a lift and see what the mount looks like. It's possible it has fractured and you have more work than just a shock mounting bolt...

[RavenTBK]

A lift is something that does not exist here. I've got a forklift and cinder blocks.

I hadnt really thought of that, but I surmise if the mount came off with it, the lower bolts would still remain in their capture nuts across the bottom of the shock. The bottom of the shock is completely lacking of bolts or capture nuts, so the mount must still be up in the control arm where it belongs. I'll peek back there and verify when I crawl underneath to affect an oil change in just a little bit when she cools down.

[pawoSD]

Your rear trailing arm may be rusted out or the mounting flange broke away....

[JamesDean]

Almost happened to my one 300SD. One of the two mounts broke on the passenger side. Had this rattling sound in the rear end. Look up there and found out why!

Ended up replacing the arm.

[RavenTBK]

Just an update...I got underneath when I finished my oil change. The control arm is just fine..its as if the bolts were removed and the shock was left to hang from its top mount. Quest begins over the weekend to find some new bolts.

[charmalu]

Go back to the JY and get some bolts. Never hurts to have lots of extra bolts and other stuff.

I wouldn`t use the cinder blocks for support. there have been times they have failed and someone seriously hurt of killed. they do not have any strength.

Better off using Jack Stands, and if working on dirt or Asphalt, use a piece of plywood under the Jack Stand so it wont sink into the dirt, and they will sink into Asphalt on a hot day.


Charlie

[layback40]

Originally Posted by charmalu

Go back to the JY and get some bolts. Never hurts to have lots of extra bolts and other stuff.

I wouldn`t use the cinder blocks for support. there have been times they have failed and someone seriously hurt of killed. they do not have any strength.

Better off using Jack Stands, and if working on dirt or Asphalt, use a piece of plywood under the Jack Stand so it wont sink into the dirt, and they will sink into Asphalt on a hot day.


Charlie

Good advice !
Better still, get a few big blocks of hardwood. Always have a back up when supporting the car. Just a couple of spare wheels jammed under it just in case it tries to fall on you. Give the car a good shake to see if you can make it fall before you get under it.

[RavenTBK]

At the jobsite, no such luck. The forklift and cinders is all the "lift" I have. I appreciate the safety tips. I have seen cinders fail and cars fall, and I've laughed about it. Fortunately, I do know the proper way to use the few tools I've got. Let me share for posterity sake...

The proper way for cinders to be orientated for weight bearing is with the holes vertical (perpendicular to the ground). Too many people place them holes horizontal (parallel to the ground), and thats what causes them to crush under such light weights or shifting. There is a reason why sturdy block walls are not built with the holes visible. Also the cinders need to be placed on a flat surface for weight bearing, and have the load speread evenly across them, such as slipped under the flat part of the framerail instead of the "point" of the control arm. In other words, cracked driveways and pressure points cause cracked cinders.

As another help, I leave the forklift up under the car, just with the weight relieved, so the cinders are holding her up, but the forklift remains to "catch" should they fail. Much similar to the proper way to use a jack and jackstands. The forklift remains as a safety on whatever end of the car I am working under.

Just because you do not have the proper tool for the job, doesnt mean you cant make what you do have work properly.

[RavenTBK]

Just for future reference and future searches, the thread size of the bolt is an M10x1.25, with a 17mm head. I honestly did not measure the length. I guesstimate it to be about 1.5 inches long. I simply removed one of the other bolts and took it up to the local hardware store to match it up. I've already got it installed, along with some new split lockwashers, as the warped washers that were originally on it obviously no longer hold.