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#1
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Do I need brake cylinder paste when replacing plugs under reservoir?
I am planning to replace the rubber plugs between the master cylinder and reservoir on a '79 W123.
The FSM says to use brake cylinder paste to lightly coat the new plugs before inserting them in the master cylinder. O'Reilly Auto doesn't carry it. I looked online, and it appears to be about $30 for a 180g tube online. Normally I don't balk at getting the right stuff for the job but 1) that's a lot for paste and 2) I wanted to complete this work tomorrow and would rather not wait for shipping time. Any thoughts on alternatives? A bit of Google searching suggests that coating them with some brake fluid will be OK. Thanks in advance.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#2
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Brake fluid will work. Do not use any type of petroleum-based grease or oil.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#3
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Thanks, yes, I did understand the second part from my reading. I appreciate your response.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#4
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I think our site vendors sell the ATE paste
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#5
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I forget that Pelican sells all the fluids and such too.
If you have a minute, do you think you might help me find it? Hate to ask, but I just searched for was only able to find ATE Plastilube and a few other "brake assembly lubricants" but those seem to be for pads, as opposed to internal components.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#6
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Well I thought it would be here =>
1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D Base Sedan - Brake Hydraulics - Page 2 Unfortunately it is just the stuff for backs and sides of brake pads When I google "ATE assembly paste" I only get European hits - when I do an image search for the same term I get pictures I made refurbishing brakes... ...may be searching at your end reduces the locality effect of google's offerings.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#7
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Quote:
Also, castor oil will work because it is one of the actual elements of the paste! Citroen people have been facing this problem on another front with early rare DS19 cars that need this for several years. The original poaste used there is NLA.
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#8
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If you are that averse to using brake fluid, just about any parts store sells caliper grease which would be compatible with any brake system "rubber."
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#9
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Quote:
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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Have you tried brake fluid?
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#11
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I used brake Fluid when I replaced them in the 85 several years ago.
Apply the fluid, and they slipped right in. Don`t know why you would need some special paste, they fit tight in the hole and there is no leakage of fluid. The Brake Fluid is to lube the new rubber so it will slip into position. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#12
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I suppose I should give brake fluid another go as a paint stripper substitute - I did try it a few years back on old POR15 and it "seemed to know" that I wanted to remove paint so it stubbornly refused!
I guess I have nothing to loose by trying it again - thanks. EDIT - it didn't work http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair/303669-my-w123-saloon-sedan-old-accident-repair-bit-rust-repair-thread-9.html
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 08-03-2014 at 01:28 PM. Reason: Added the result |
#13
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Quote:
I merely prefer to use what the FSM suggests, as long as it's within reason. As I said I appreciate your input and will be using brake fluid to complete this job today. But I might still get some of this paste to have on hand for future brake work, if I can source it for a decent price. Time will tell.
__________________
1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#14
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I think the purpose of the paste is twofold. 1. to lubricate and allow easy insertion of the reservoir 2. to keep rust from developing between the rubber gasket and the master cylinder. To achieve 1. Either the past or brake fluid will do. Brake fluid may not work so well for 2 since it is thin and hydroscopic (attracts water).
I think brake system rubber components are EPDM. Check if Silicone is compatible. If so, get some Silicone heat sink paste from Radio Shack or Ebay if you don't want to spend $30 for the real stuff. Silicone heat sink paste come in small packets and should be very inexpensive.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#15
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If Silicone works, I have a whole tub of Silicone grease. I'm not sure it would - haven't read anything one way or another about it. I did read that the brake cylinder paste being discussed here is not to be used with DOT5 silicone fluid, however, so that makes me hesitant to use silicone grease/paste with non-silicone fluid.
I think for this particular application I'll stick with brake fluid and then continue to research. Rust isn't much of any issue around here - besides the two or three months of monsoon where humidity might be around 40%, we tend to stay in the 10% range.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
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