Hello,

First off I have never removed a door panel on this car so any help here would be helpful. This is right rear.

Anyway, the power door lock is very sluggish in the rear. Sometimes it won't move at all. Jammed.

Most of the times all 3 doors lock and the trunk but this one will not.

I'd like to know if I need parts and how to remove door panel.

Much chance I can fix with no parts?


Thanks

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1982 300SD

When I say jammed I mean won't work. It works manually.

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1982 300SD

I went on ebay and found this used one.

Mercede Benz W126 300SDL 300SD 300D Rear Door Vacuum Lock Actuator | eBay

Says works right or left side.

This look like what I need for my 1982 300SD?

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1982 300SD

Yes, that looks like it. They are about $25 new. The door card is easy to remove; search the forum. Takes maybe 10-15 minutes at most. Then the actuator can been seen and removed. Sounds like you have either some loss of vac from a hose or maybe from the actuator. After opening up the door, I would just go ahead and install the new actuator.

Removing the door upholstery panel is easy: primary thing to remember is "lift up"! But wait! First remove the piece at the back of the door, runs vertically, screws are accessible from the outside of the door frame. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry out the black plastic liner inside the door release pull handle then you'll be able to see another phillips screw in the center behind it. Pull that metal frame piece out and back a wee bit, carefully and find the large phillips screw at the top of the arm rest/door pull. Then find the two remaining screws under the lower, 'more level' part of the arm rest, they're angled up, from underneath. Don't forget the courtesy lamp up underneath the door, it's actually in the door upholstery panel. Pry it out with a small flat blade screw driver, pull the wires off. Now, you should be able to lift straight up an inch or so to release the upholstery panel which has plastic molded tabs on the top and plastic molded hooks along the lower sides and bottom edge holding it to the door. Do not pull outward! You will break these pieces off! Take your time, be gently!

p.s. I will never for the life of me, ever be able to fathom why anyone has ever taken to call upholstery panels cards!! Cards are use for playing gambling games! Upholstery is used in automobiles!

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Dedicated to the preservation of antique Mercedes Benz's, one rusty ol' bucket of bolts at a time!

I'd prefer a new one for $25. I will have to look for one for that price. I have not looked yet. Thanks gear head for the description on how to pull the door card. I've pulled other cars just not this one. I will remember to lift some. Do I just replace the actuator or does the rod too get replaced too. I would think rod unscrews from actuator and L and R are same but not sure. Guy on Ebay selling a pair for $88, seems high..

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1982 300SD

$25 was 5-6 years ago. Do not remember about the rod.

Yes, ditto the comments about lifting up. There are less than 5-6 screw holding these door panels. Once you get one removed, you will find that you can pull one in about 5 min. easy. That's if you are working slow. With an electric screwdriver, may 2-3 min.

The door lock actuators are now ~ $50/ea. With a situation where a part sees constant use, such as door locks, I would come up with the extra $10-15 for a pair.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/3339/MBZ_3339_BDYBMP_pg3.htm

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Thanks,

Well I got it removed. It leaked a tiny bit when I sucked on the hose. It did not leak when I blew on the lose. I lifted the boot and sprayed some aerosol white lithium grease (CARQUEST) into where the seals are. I assume O-rings. Not sure. I gave it 3 short blasts with boot raised. This can of spray leaves a decent amount of residue. Might be enough to seal or expand the seals. Time will tell. I know to replace if it does not last. Thanks for help. The actuator was Blue in color, I expected to see black. Maybe it was replace. Not sure. Steve

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1982 300SD

I locked and unlocked door about 10 times. Seems OK for now. What would you guys do go say $25 for a used one or $58 for a new one? Seems to me a used one can be tested and work on the bench but leak a tiny bit and not work on the car as this one does. It was just a whisper of a leak.

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1982 300SD

congrats on your success, hope it lasts awhile. I don't believe I'd care to drop $25 on a used one with a "whisper" of a leak or any other kind of leak. I have paid $5 for used vacuum elements with no leaks though.

was reading your last couple of posts and was thinking about the last time I was in the doors of mine dealing with the same issues, I thought I recalled two vacuum lines attached to each element. And if I recall correctly, seems like the locks work strictly off vacuum, that is to say, vacuum will pull on the diaphragm on one hose to lock, and vacuum pulls on the other line to unlock.

So I'm a little curious if you've vacuumed tested on both sides? Kind of hope so and that you have had success with all your testing...

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Dedicated to the preservation of antique Mercedes Benz's, one rusty ol' bucket of bolts at a time!

I only saw on hose line. One operation is lock (blow or suck on hose) or operation is unlock (blow or suck on hose). I forget which is which now. I think suck was lock and blow was unlock but I used my finger over hose and only one hose for sure.

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1982 300SD