I would like to convert the glow plug system on my 1980 - 300D to manual. I did a search on this site and found that some folks have done that. They have used a Ford solenoid. Is there a part number for that and where can I buy one? Also a schematic of your design will be greatly appreciated.

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1980 - 300D
1984 - Mazda B2200 Diesel

Any Ford starter solenoid will work. Easiest thing is to just go out the junk yard and grab one off almost any Ford product. They're usually on the fender well right out in the open.

Run the field through a switch in the dash - MOMENTARY TYPE. Run the other side to the glow plugs through a 80 amp fuse from the battery, or a junction box in the engine bay.



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This is what I did on My Volvo Diesel as far as the Solenoid Hook Up.

Older Fords did not have a Solenoid mounted on the Starter itself as GM/AC Delco and your Mercedes do.

If you look pick something like a 1968 for Falcon or the like and search for Starter Solenoid you will see what it looks like.

I just trolled the Junk Yard and pulled one off of a random Vehicle.

Ford also has a smaller Solenoid that is for the Ford Diesels that is not a sufisticated Relay like the Mercedes.

I posted a crude drawing of the system like 6 Years ago but have no idea what thread it was in.

I believe you need an Switch that is only on as long as you hold the switch down. If you use another type of switch you may forget and leave the Glow Plugs on.

Also in My particular case I am not connected to the Ignition Switch and am connected directly to the Battery.

I believe it is possible to use the Wire from the Ignition that goes to the Glow Plug Relay to turn the Solenoid on. But, I did not do that.


Picture:
I did not color Code the Wires.
The Selonoid has 2 Large Terminals.
One Terminal larger Terminal needs to be conected to the + Battery and the other large Terminal is going to go to the Glow Plugs at the point where the Wire is still a single wire you might want to install an 80 amp Fuse.

You are going to need to Wire one individual Wire for each Glow Plug and attache them to the Main Line or use a Wire Terminal/Junction Block.

In the pic the Green Wires go to the Switch. One Green Wire is connected to the + Large Terminal that comes from the + Battery and it goes to the Switch and back to the Solenoid "S" Terminal.

The only other part if the Circuit is that the Frame of the Solenoid needs to be grounded to the Chassis.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

There is no need to use a Ford solenoid on a Mercedes. Just use the power relay inside the Mercedes glow controller and treat it as the "Ford solenoid". Open up the controller, identify and isolate the traces to the coil of the power relay, one side of coil goes to ground, the other goes to +12v via a momentary push button switch, unplug the small 4 pin connector and you are done! No need to hack up the wires to the glow plugs and tie them to the Ford solenoid! This way you can always go back to a stock Mercedes system by buying a new glow controller since you have not hacked up the glow plug wires.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

So you are saying run a thin wire from the battery to a switch on the dash and from there to positive side of the coil?

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1980 - 300D
1984 - Mazda B2200 Diesel

Yes except I'd run it from switched +12 and not from battery, and make sure the other side of the coil is grounded. and don't forget to unplug the small 4 pin connector before testing.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

IF (and that's a big IF) I find that mine won't start I intend to go with the Ford solenoid system as diagrammed. Nothing wrong with that - those suckers are TOUGH! And good for like 1M amps (I'm guessing here). The S-10 will never be asked to start in the winter unless it's in the shop so I don't expect much of an issue but IF........

I'll use another starter button to apply the power. Mine (the one in the truck for the starter) is from Speedway Motors, a GREAT source for all kinds of race car parts including electrical bits.

Dan

Thanks. What and where is "switched +12" ?

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1980 - 300D
1984 - Mazda B2200 Diesel

Any point in the harness that only gets +12V when the ignition is turned on.

I suppose that this helps ensure that your switch for the glow plugs can't run the glow plugs when the car is off, say if you accidentally let something lean on it or it gets stuck.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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As long as you have 15 amps or so (look at the rating of the fuse) you can catch it anywhere that does NOT have power with the key off but does have power with the key on. It's a safety thing so that you can't possibly have power to the glow plugs with the key off. The wire from your 12VDC source will go TO the momentary switch (either terminal) and the other terminal will go OUT to the "switched 12VDC" as marked on the drawing.

All the solenoid is is a huge honkin' switch that's activated by a smaller voltage (the 12VDC switched) so that you don't have to run battery-cable sized wires into the passenger compartment. The Ford solenoid is really functionally the same as the Bosch unit built into your starter but Ford has long packaged them separately from the starter unlike GM, M-B and many other companies.

Dan

On my '84 6.2 Blazer, I got tired of replacing($$) glow plug controllers. I picked up power from the glow plug relay, through dash to button switch & back. About 8 or 9 "Mississippi's" in the winter.

I got one as well, it's it in the right foot operating area. I had it wired pretty much from the battery and it goes directly to the glow plug harness. Works like a charm.

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General George - 1967 Land Rover 2a SWB 1983 OM617 Turbo

The reason for My use (the original Relay died) of the Ford Starter Solenoid is that the Volvo Diesel Glow Plug Relay is similar to the older Mercedes Glow Plug Relays that are behind the Instruement. New ones were like $250 back around 1992.

Since 1992 I have only seen one Volvo Diesel at the Junk Yard; that means you cannot go to the Junk Yard a get a Glow Plug Relay for the Volvo any time you need one.

The other Plus for the Starter Solenoid is it is made to take a whole lot more amperage then the Mercedes Relay. A Starter Solenoid used as a Glow Plug Relay will likely out last the Car itself.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I know I get stoned for this...

But why not just keep the original?

I have had no issues with mine and they are original on both my cars...

I really like to not have to do the three hand maneuver to start my car, or try to explain to someone driving my car, that you need to push this button, hold this switch, turn this key that way, turn that one that way....and touch the rear dome light...

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A lot of Folks don't mind getting "Stoned"

I can see it if I lived in an Cold area. The possible longevity and reliability of a 30 Year old Glow Plug relay has to be questioned if you live some place Cold.

With the Manual Switch you get to Glow as Long as you want to without cycling the Key if you wired it to do that.

Since it can be setup without going through the Ignition Switch if somthing happes to the Ignition Switch or Steering Colum Lock your Glow Plugs are still going to work.

The Manual System has simplicity and reliability going for it. On mine as an added bonus if the Starter Solenoid died I could remove the + Cable from one side of the Solenoid and apply it to the Glow Plug Wire and Glow.

Simplicity can be elegant.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel