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  #1  
Old 09-18-2014, 02:15 PM
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any tips for oil filter housing gasket? (84 300SD)

84SD I'm working on my oil filter housing gasket. The 2 bolts on the left are out. I have the center and bottom bolts to go.

It looks like the engine will have to be raised to get the center bolt. I'll be lifting with a floor jack. What is the least amount of stuff that has to come off.

Are there any "while-I'm-at-its"?

Oil was dripping off the bottom of the housing and pressure sending unit. Hopefully, it is only the gasket.

Comments? It's lunch/break time for a little while.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2014, 02:24 PM
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On a W123 a Member said the Mechanic removed the Steering Box. And, that makes sense if you want room to use a Torque Wrench on the Bolts.

I found I could squeeze a Beam Type Torque Wrench in to get at all but 2 Bolts. I replaced the Allen Bolts in those 2 spots with regular Bolts and was ablie to use a short Socket with the Beam type Torque Wrench. But, that is on a W123.

While the Housing was off I also changed the Gasket that goes on the Rear Plate. That is the Plate the Turbo Oil Line Bolts to and the Oil Pressure Sending Unit Bolts to. Check that Plate for Hair Lline cracks radiating from the Threaded Holes.
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  #3  
Old 09-18-2014, 05:13 PM
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This is how a 126 comes apart

Before starting:

Wash that pig off. There is oil caked on the back of the engine that has been neglected - even if the rest of the engine is acceptable. Blast it at the car wash. I didn't but will next time.

Take a 6mm allen head wrench (not a socket) and cut the short leg and make it shorter.

From above:

1. Open the oil filter housing so it will drain.

From underneath:

1.Pull the electrical connector on the oil pressure sending unit.

2. Pull the oil line banjo bolt to the turbo

3. Pull the center bolt that holds the engine to the motor mount. (mine was missing. I'm hoping the parts car has one.

4. Remove the lower 2 bolts that hold the housing on. I had to leave the back one in the housing. The front came out with a short 6mm allen socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet.

From Above:

1 Disconnect the clip that connects the fuel pedal linkage to the engine and disconnect the linkage.

2. Disconnect the vacuum lines to the VCV and move them out of the way.

3. Pull the upper left bolt using whatever 6mm allen socket you need.

4. Jack the engine up using a block of wood on the oil pan per the FSM.

5 Remove the center bolt. This should be the last one and the housing is free.

Clean, remove the old gasket.

Per 911 Clean the plate & get ready to replace that gasket also. I'll go buy 2 regular bolts perhaps more because the allen heads were a pita.

The mosquitoes are out and I'll quit for now. Hopefully reassembly tomorrow afternoon.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #4  
Old 09-18-2014, 06:23 PM
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When reassembling, ensure that there is a copper washer on both sides of the banjo fitting and bolt assembly for the turbo oil line. Unknown to me, at first, the inner one fell off when re-bolting the oil line to the oil filter housing. If you miss it, you will leave a large puddle of oil in no time. (Don't ask me how I know.)

(Also, removing the steering box gives you so much more room to work. Pop the tie rods off and leave the pitman arm in place. Also, disconnect the upper "square" end of the flex steering link and not the splined end. This will save you considerable frustration trying to get things centered again.)
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  #5  
Old 09-18-2014, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
Before starting:

Wash that pig off. There is oil caked on the back of the engine that has been neglected - even if the rest of the engine is acceptable. Blast it at the car wash. I didn't but will next time.

Take a 6mm allen head wrench (not a socket) and cut the short leg and make it shorter.

From above:

1. Open the oil filter housing so it will drain.

From underneath:

1.Pull the electrical connector on the oil pressure sending unit.

2. Pull the oil line banjo bolt to the turbo

3. Pull the center bolt that holds the engine to the motor mount. (mine was missing. I'm hoping the parts car has one.

4. Remove the lower 2 bolts that hold the housing on. I had to leave the back one in the housing. The front came out with a short 6mm allen socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet.

From Above:

1 Disconnect the clip that connects the fuel pedal linkage to the engine and disconnect the linkage.

2. Disconnect the vacuum lines to the VCV and move them out of the way.

3. Pull the upper left bolt using whatever 6mm allen socket you need.

4. Jack the engine up using a block of wood on the oil pan per the FSM.

5 Remove the center bolt. This should be the last one and the housing is free.

Clean, remove the old gasket.

Per 911 Clean the plate & get ready to replace that gasket also. I'll go buy 2 regular bolts perhaps more because the allen heads were a pita.

The mosquitoes are out and I'll quit for now. Hopefully reassembly tomorrow afternoon.
Be sure there is room for the Bolt Head and of course clearance for a Socket to fit over the Blot Head.
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  #6  
Old 09-18-2014, 07:15 PM
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DO NOT USE SILICONE GASKET! (ok maybe a VERY VERY thin amount)
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  #7  
Old 09-18-2014, 07:34 PM
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Just get the MB waffle gasket and install it dry onto clean surfaces
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #8  
Old 09-18-2014, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
Just get the MB waffle gasket and install it dry onto clean surfaces
^^What he said

Dramatic difference in design and effectiveness

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  #9  
Old 09-18-2014, 10:51 PM
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/328295-leak-free-617-a.html

I was hoping to leave the steering box alone but perhaps not.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #10  
Old 09-18-2014, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/328295-leak-free-617-a.html

I was hoping to leave the steering box alone but perhaps not.
I'm using the oil filter housing from an SD on my SL Diesel. I pulled it at the junk yard without messing with the steering box, so I'm wondering why pulling the steering box seems required. As I recall I did most of the work from below. It's been awhile, but I don't remember it being all that bad a deal other than being an oily mess, but most junk yard engines are.

I installed it with the engine out, so maybe that's the difficult part.
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  #11  
Old 09-18-2014, 11:36 PM
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I had no difficulty changing the canister on my SD... I made my brother do it.

he broke the oil turbo feed line though...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #12  
Old 09-19-2014, 02:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
^^What he said

Dramatic difference in design and effectiveness

MB design is probably best, but I have had no problems with the Victor Reinz version on 6 installs... And I install them dry with no sealant. Of course I say this now, and then I'll have an issue.
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  #13  
Old 09-19-2014, 07:00 AM
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I DIY'd this job on my W123 and it just plain seemed like I didn't have enough hands to steady everything and get it together smoothly. I also used a flat gasket. It ended up leaking worse than before when I got it all back together. I then gave up and took it to my indy. I know they used the MB waffle gasket, but I don't know what else they did differently, but it didn't leak when they were done with it.
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2014, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
I'm using the oil filter housing from an SD on my SL Diesel. I pulled it at the junk yard without messing with the steering box, so I'm wondering why pulling the steering box seems required. As I recall I did most of the work from below. It's been awhile, but I don't remember it being all that bad a deal other than being an oily mess, but most junk yard engines are.

I installed it with the engine out, so maybe that's the difficult part.
I said it was done on W123s and speculated it was done so their was room for a Torque Wrench.

If you don't care about torqing it down then there is room.
I did the whole job without removing the Steering Box but it never occurred to Me to do that.

I have never seen what it looks like under an SD so I cannot comment on the room on one.
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  #15  
Old 09-19-2014, 10:27 PM
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I guess I get to play the Bad Guy again. I coated one side of the Waffle type (from the Dealer) Block to Oil Filter Housing Gasket with Copper Kote or Gasgchinch (can't remember which both are a type of Rubber Cement but the Copper Kote has Copper Particles in it) and suck it to the Oil Filter Housing.

That helped Me have enough hands to do the job. Nothing like having a loose Gasket shifting around while you are trying to hold on to a somewhat heave awkward Part in a tight spot.

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