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  #1  
Old 09-29-2014, 12:50 PM
moon161's Avatar
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Victor reinz head bolts

I went to put in a set of Victor Reinz head bolts into the head of my 87 190D 2.5 and found half of them didn't fit.

The heads were too big (.830") compared to what they were replacing (.813") to fit in the counterbore in at least 12 of 22 locations, 5 were OK, and I couldn't inspect 5 more locations.

Has anyone else had this issue, or could suggest an alternate vendor? All I can find is Reinz.

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  #2  
Old 09-29-2014, 01:04 PM
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I haven't seen that exact issue before, but this thread came to mind, regarding poorly made VictorReinz head bolts.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/2053425-head-bolts-********az.html

Seems like getting the bolts from the dealer is the way to go.
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  #3  
Old 09-29-2014, 01:05 PM
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Erm, so the forum censored the vendor name in the URL (thread title). Here is a tiny url to the same link:

http://tinyurl.com/nbyp5xp
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

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  #4  
Old 09-29-2014, 03:19 PM
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Another option if you have the size (diameter, thread pitch, length, head type) is to go online to ARP. Their stuff is STRONG (better than aircraft grade) and well made here in the US of A.

I replaced the torque-to-yield bolts in our Windstar and stopped the head gasket failures, for which they were famous (3.8 V6 gasser). Just tighten them to the required torque as suggested for the diameter of the bolt and retorque after the engine has warmed and cooled (they settle a bit with a heat cycle or two).

While I haven't done a price comparison I'll wager ARP is cheaper than the dealer. ARP may even list a kit for your engine but if they don't you can order them by size.

Dan
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
...... and retorque after the engine has warmed and cooled (they settle a bit with a heat cycle or two)......
Interesting....and used to be SOP for head gaskets....

Will you describe exactly what you do ?

Do you loosen all the bolts at the same time...then take it back up to the reading you want ?

Or do you just take them up to the reading you want from where they are after the cooling ? Do you maintain the specific order the FSM calls for ?
Do you take it back up in stages ?
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  #6  
Old 09-29-2014, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
Another option if you have the size (diameter, thread pitch, length, head type) is to go online to ARP. Their stuff is STRONG (better than aircraft grade) and well made here in the US of A.

I replaced the torque-to-yield bolts in our Windstar and stopped the head gasket failures, for which they were famous (3.8 V6 gasser). Just tighten them to the required torque as suggested for the diameter of the bolt and retorque after the engine has warmed and cooled (they settle a bit with a heat cycle or two).

While I haven't done a price comparison I'll wager ARP is cheaper than the dealer. ARP may even list a kit for your engine but if they don't you can order them by size.

Dan
Not my first choice. Would have to pull the cam to reach some of the bolts.
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82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times
It's hard to
more likely to
concentrate on
have an accident
two things
when you're on
at the same time.
a cell phone.


www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?
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  #7  
Old 09-30-2014, 10:45 AM
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They didn't fit a friends 603. We just bought them from the dealer and the fit was perfect.
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  #8  
Old 10-01-2014, 01:41 AM
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For the new head bolts for my M102 that I bought from the dealer they said I had to buy an extra thick washer because they now make the bolts too long.

(Typical - I thought - they make the bolts too long and then make you buy an extra bit to correct their intentional mistake)

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