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Water pump impellers
I have heard that there are good and bad impeller styles and materials.
I have seen cast and fabricated impeller. Any experience with these two types?
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#2
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Don't know about that...
but I know that some cars which come from the factory with AC... have FEWER blades in the water pump.... I know it sounds backwards... but it is true...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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YES, but not MB related.
Formerly a proud owner of a 2001 Olds Intrigue. Got over 250K miles. Around 150K, water pump went bad while wife was driving. She nursed it in to the local Firestone Repair Center. Advised to please use AC-Delco Parts. Did not happen. Got an aftermarket part repair. Car would routinely "overheat" ... got really high temps ALOT. Got off my lazy butt and swapped out the water pumps. The junk I got was plastic, flimsly impellers. AC-Delco OEM part had steel. For the last 100K miles, car ran cool as a cucumber. A very, very common problem for the Olds Intrigue, that and a dozen other issues. |
#4
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Once upon a time, in 2004 I bought a water pump from Napa. It had a brass impeller. It was like seeing a unicorn in the wild. I installed the water pump, but sadly my engine died a few years later. One of my friends who helped me with the engine swap asked for the water pump and I gave it to him. I've never seen one again.
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1983 Toyota Tercel 4WD Wagon - 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 4-Speed(My Car!) 2005 C230 Kompressor 6-Speed Manual
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#5
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I've seen steel impellers, plastic impellers, and cast iron impellers. I've also seen Teflon coated impellers...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#6
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About 20 years ago I went through 3 pumps on a 617 95 in an effort to keep temperatures normal after the OEM pump started leaking. I can not recall the makes but the first after market pump had cast small straingt impellers and the engine ran 15 degrees above normal, the second after market pump had longer impellers but fewer again cast worked a bit better maybe 8-10 degrees hotter than normal finally an OEM pump with longer curved impellers that appeared to be machined no over heating problems at all at 3x the cost of aftermarket pumps.
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#7
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Quote:
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
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How difficult is it to change the impeller from one pump to another?
Just asking as I've never looked at one to see what might be needed to do this. Also, there is a lot of varation in plastics. Some of the new stuff wears better than steel.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#9
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Standard practice on vw diesels is to change out the plastic pump impellers well whole pump with steel impellers on the the first timing belt change around 50 k miles. They then to shatter with heat and age and fail closer to 80 k miles several independents told a friend who likes his Vw's.
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#10
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The plastic impellers on the BMW E39 water pumps do exactly the same thing. They go right around 80,000 miles. Mine grenaded suddenly at 4,000rpm at something like 79,500 miles and the resulting spike in system pressure took out the upper radiator hose as well.
The radiator hoses have plastic ends with integrated seals and clips (not just hoses with metal clamps) and that is what broke. The rubber hose portion was fine. While replacing the pump I also had the fan clutch replaced - they tend to seize up around 100,000 miles which can cause the plastic engine fan to explode and punch holes in the hood, tear up hoses and belts, etc. I also had the expansion tank and thermostat housing replaced since they are plastic and tend to crack and leak out all your coolant. The only piece still original to the cooling system is the radiator - which is mostly plastic and tends to crack at the sides and dump your coolant. Gotta love plastic in a cooling system... I've replaced the radiators proactively in both of my W123's to avoid this. The expansion tank on my turbo will be the next thing to get replaced. At least those are the only plastic items on these cars when it comes to the cooling system.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#11
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Thread hijack
While on the subject, I may need a water pump for my 190D. My car has been running a little hotter lately and the pressure in the upper radiator hose doesn't seem to be as strong as it used to be when the engine is warmed up.
Pelican offers a variety of pumps Saleri for $67.25 Graf for $80 Laso for $97.75 Meyle for $77.00 and Genuine Mercedes for $277 (or about $210 from my local dealer's discount site) Also have seen a Geba pump for $74 on another site. Besides the OEM pump (cause I don't want to spend that kind of money if I don't have to) and the Meyle pump (knowing it is likely no good), which of these would you recommend?
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#12
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Quote:
I saw the engine with the pump off.... and a big ' gouge' out of it... it was covered by factory warranty... no matter how many of those they had to replace...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
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Quote:
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#14
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Stamped steel impellers may be a little more efficient, but I think cast-iron impellers tend to last longer. I have seen photos of steel impellers rusted away or sheared from the hub.
Re the comment on fewer blades in a water pump for a factory AC car, that is true with 60-70's small block Mopar engines. It is because AC cars have a different pulley setup, w/ a smaller pulley on the water pump so it turns faster. I haven't seen any variation in the 82-85 300D & 300SD engines. All cars seemed to come w/ the same options - AC, pwr steering, sunroof, ... |
#15
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Quote:
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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