Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-21-2014, 11:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,761
Preventing Burned Clutches

Like y'all's opinion on this. My preference is not to have barb fittings, as leery of them popping off. Further, the external cooler be mainly due to me burning up the clutches, and don't want to do that again. Figure when it gets below 64*F use cardboard to block the cooler?

So, is both sides of the transmission hose the same size?

This is the plan I like to have critiqued:
supply (driver's side) hard line, 16mmx1.5 to AN6 adapter, braided high pressure hose (braided to protect against the belts), AN6 to 3/8"NPT on the external cooler. Then the fluid goes through the cooler. AN6 to 3/8" adapter, AN6 hose, 16mmx1.5 to AN6 adapter on internal oil cooler. The fluid then goes through the internal oil cooler, so as picks up engine heat, allowing the transmission to have proper, quick, warm up.

Only concern is the AN hose.Other option is have a couple hoses made up.

__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-22-2014, 11:02 AM
eatont9999's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,948
The correct transmission cooler hose is available online and the OE version has a spring coiled on the outside of the hose to prevent it from being cut. If the trans is operating properly, there should be no need to block anything off or modify the cooling system.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-22-2014, 11:30 AM
fahrvergnugen's Avatar
Yeah, THAT guy...
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Olathe, CO
Posts: 692
Beg pardon, but I believe the spring is there to help prevent the hose from kinking.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-22-2014, 11:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
The correct transmission cooler hose is available online and the OE version has a spring coiled on the outside of the hose to prevent it from being cut. If the trans is operating properly, there should be no need to block anything off or modify the cooling system.
Eaton, thank you so very much for your help! If heat didn't cause the clutches to burn, and no coolant in the A.T.F. or vise versa, then why is there burned clutch in the A.T.F. I drained?

The transmission now shifts odd when going in out out of first. Fluid level is good, and has mostly been (small leak which I need to address A.S.A.P.). Basically, doesn't perform as it did when I got her back in 2012.
__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-22-2014, 12:04 PM
Zacharias's Avatar
Not so amused
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: West Quebec
Posts: 4,025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
The transmission now shifts odd when going in out out of first.
You need to explain "odd" in more detail.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
Basically, doesn't perform as it did when I got her back in 2012.
How many miles on the car now?

What did the transmission fluid look like (colour) when you got the car?
__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-22-2014, 12:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
You need to explain "odd" in more detail.



How many miles on the car now?

What did the transmission fluid look like (colour) when you got the car?
Zacharias, thank you so very much for the help!

By odd, soggy, unsure. It's like it takes a moment to settle in to gear, but not a full true flare, though have had a few of those (fluid low most times). Turning the T key a notch helped (Tram's suggestion).
There is just over 298,000, so getting up there for a transmission. Thus why I bought a used one; need to just pick it up from Oregon.

The transmission fluid had been just changed, so the nice bright red color. Then over time went to schwarz braun. Been so busy not sure when. Instead of it having the nice smell, it has a nasty burned smell that stayed on my hands for the whole day.
__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-22-2014, 04:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,515
Quote:
Originally Posted by fahrvergnugen View Post
Beg pardon, but I believe the spring is there to help prevent the hose from kinking.

External springs are for object impact resistance to prevent hose damage.

This is also done in various steel lines on some cars to prevent denting.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-23-2014, 11:18 PM
1985 190d
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: canadian border vermont
Posts: 518
From reading your two threads I would say your fluid levels are too low. It is critical that the fluid level be within spec; I might be way wrong, but IMHO burnt clutches are casued by a low fluid level not by hot fluid.

You do not want leaks of AT fluid, not any, not ever.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-24-2014, 04:50 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by vtmbz View Post
From reading your two threads I would say your fluid levels are too low. It is critical that the fluid level be within spec; I might be way wrong, but IMHO burnt clutches are casued by a low fluid level not by hot fluid.

You do not want leaks of AT fluid, not any, not ever.
Thank you so very much for the help.

Fluid level was fine, if not over full. It only got low after I changed the transmission fluid. Tomorrow that will be remedied when I add six quarts of A.T.F..
__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-24-2014, 09:02 AM
layback40's Avatar
Not Banned
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Victoria Australia - down under!!
Posts: 4,023
Quote:
Originally Posted by vtmbz View Post
From reading your two threads I would say your fluid levels are too low. It is critical that the fluid level be within spec; I might be way wrong, but IMHO burnt clutches are caused by a low fluid level not by hot fluid.

You do not want leaks of AT fluid, not any, not ever.
10/10 you are correct. Hot fluid is fine. Low fluid or moist fluid will kill plates. Drive ~10 miles in traffic with trans changing up & down on an old trans low on fluid & it will be in trouble.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page