I have been having a very small coolant leak for a few weeks now, but I was waiting to get it fixed because I just moved back to AZ from NY and still have not secured a job yet. Then the other night my car spewed a big puddle of fuel out underneath the engine, presumably from the IP pump which I think might need a new leather diaphragm (it's running rich and smoking more). I took it to my mechanic to see about the more pressing fuel issue, and he couldn't get it to leak during his testing, but he WAS able to find that coolant leak. It's from some super short hose under the thermostat housing and BURIED behind the ginormous A/C bracket. To replace the hose, plus some other parts that might as well be replaced while all of that area is accessible (water pump & housing, etc.), will be a cool $1,500+, and that is not even addressing the fuel puddle issue. I want to cry. I think the job is just too much work for me, plus I don't really think I have the right tools either. I'm just venting, no real fixit help posts required.

That is one of the big improvements which came soon after your car... I have one of those huge AC holders on a parts car.. and probably worse... it is holding an old power sucking York ? Sorry about the situation.... Have been there done that with other cars....
A mouse ate part of the wiring harness on my pickup truck... part of the fuel injection controls... and the entire intake had to be taken off to fix that little wire... also $1500 hit...
and there is no promise that same mouse will not do it again...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Sounds like a tough spot to be in. Sorry to hear it. I'll send you a PM, maybe I can help?

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

Bust out the tools and take off that A/C bracket and all associated stuff. Spend the 100 bucks on parts. Fix this yourself. 1500 dollars is a sign that he doesnt want to do it.

You can do without air conditioning, but the car cannot do without coolant.

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Why it is costing so much, is because it is very labor intensive...specially is the thermostat housing is pitted....so I can understand the price...

As was said, it can be done cheap....but make sure you have an extra car...

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He said that he's done this job a few times a number of years ago, and it's almost guaranteed that the water pump housing breaks or maybe is not really usable after being removed. That, and I think he mentioned that the housing itself is a special order part from Germany for $600. I can't recall the cost for the hose, but it wasn't cheap either.

It is not a huge job on a 617. The hose itself is only a couple of dollars. You will want new upper & lower radiator hoses, perhaps trans cooler lines & a water pump. Go look at it and see that you can do it. You really need to consider another vehicle if you have to farm out that type of repair because the bills will easily be more than the car is worth.

The water pump is not $600 unless you buy OE. There are good alternatives on this site. I just bought one.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I agree with JB3. The mechanic doesn't want to do it. The thermostat housing and water pump bolts sometimes give trouble but most of the cars I get here are salt caked rust buckets that sat for 20 years before I got them. The most common problem I have with an engine that's been sitting is a while is a stuck thermostat and I have been able to save every thermostat housing with a little heat and some penetrating oil.

The AC bracket is huge but it isn't insurmountable. The compressor is held on with 6 bolts. The bracket itself slides over 2 studs for the motor mount arm and one manifold stud. The few remaining bolts are on the front. After that you're looking at everything you need to replace.

If you don't want to chance a broken thermostat housing bolt don't replace it. You can leave the thermostat housing in place and only remove the water pump housing. The water pump bolts themselves can break but you can repair or replace the housing for far less than quoted. The water pump housing to block bolts have never been a problem in any engine I've worked on.

For an idea of what I work on see the pictures for the most recent W115 and W123 I've parted. The W115 was some glass, a drive line and suspension laying in a field. I took the pump and thermostat housings off the OM617 in the picture without heat or penetrating oil. The engine was seized - full of water and rust.

I have the thermostat and pump housing for your car in good shape. PM me if you need them.

If you really feel the car is going to be totaled rather than fixed at the quoted price you have little to loose trying to fix it yourself.

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1969 220D 5 Speed (OM616)
1983 240D 4 Speed
1985 300D Auto 376K
1985 300D Auto 275K

What they said.

Never lose sight of the fact that mechanics are businessmen too. Each has his own personal guidelines for the sorts of jobs he wants coming in the door. To be fair, on an older car that he isn't familiar with, he also has to cover his butt on stuff that could go wrong. Very few will actually come out and say "I don't want this job." Most will either quote a price they know the customer will probably choke on, or will simply tell the customer the job is too pricey vs. the value of the car. Again, to be fair, put yourself in their shoes: if they encourage a customer with an old car to spend $800 or $1500 or whatever, and something else major fails two months later... who gets blamed, 9/10 times?

What he said. Often when we get news like this, when not expected, the immediate effect on us is almost paralyzing. You have just gone through the upheaval of a big move, so you aren't exactly firm on your feet to begin with.

Sleep on it one or two days, take a deep breath, then open the hood and look at it as rationally as you can. It's a matter of undoing bolts and removing parts, then putting it back together. It isn't rebuilding an engine.

Get a can of good quality penetrating lubricant and start soaking every bolt that is going to move. Then slowly begin.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

The W115 bypass hose is annoying to access.
However; If you take pictures of the bracket / mounting during dis-assembly "anyone with persistence can complete this job in one day".

There is NO reason to vent the A/C system, simply hold it back with rope, straps or bungee cord.

Have a great day.
.

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ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I'm not really familiar with this job, but the first thing I would do is source a good used water pump housing on eBay or from someone who has a junk car or a parts collection. You should be able to find one in working condition for under $100. Regardless of whether you DIY or pay the mechanic, that should at least shave $500 off the bill. If you want to be really frugal, find an eBay listing with a 14-day or 30-day return policy and then return it if you don't need it :-)

Perhaps some of the members here could help you find one?

Mechanics generally don't like to go on wild part chases. IMO, a good used replacement would probably be as good as a new one -- at least it is for me.

Dkr.

With these cars, totalled always means when someone else is working on it. Chill.
You can always keep up with a leak.
Loosen the pressure cap on the radiator a 1/4 turn so the system doesn't pressurize, and your coolant loss should decrease. Go to harborfreight, get a 3/8 socket set, extensions, metric open end/box wrench set, screwdriver set, and a can of elbow grease. $100. If you're scared, pull a water pump from a junkyard car.

Tune in, we can get you through.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Get the available manuals (Chilton, etc.) before starting job. Memorize steps. They are not great, but at least you have exploded views and some idea of steps involved.

Track down all available videos on youtube: sometimes they are very helpful.

Gather and sort all tools before starting. Nothing is more annoying than getting to step 13 and finding the tool missing from your set.

Above all, avail yourself the use of a digital camera and shoot pictures of each step you do. Do not proceed until you have good shots of each step. Ask me how I know.

Roy: Great to see you on the board. You have been an enormous help to me in the past.

Good luck. When are you leaving Phoenix? I will be there Thanksgiving.

Well, I am going to try and give it a go. My new job starts next week, so I have some time beforehand to work on it. I'm not going to replace ANYTHING that is not currently broken (if it ain't baroque, don't fix it), though I will replace any hoses that I see back there. Leathermang, yes it's the big 'ol York, which I want to revert to R12 in the spring. JB3, have you ever been to Phoenix in the summer without A/C? :-) VT220D, you're right about having nothing to loose at this point. Zacharias & Moon161, thank you for the pep talk. Whunter, good idea, no point in doing more work. I'll tie back the compressor and bracket as best I can. Abiggercamera, I just moved back to Phoenix, though I will be up at the family cabin in Flagstaff for Thanksgiving itself.

So after two days of wrenching, I finally got the culprit hose off below the thermostat housing. It really looks crummy. I am going to try and see if I can keep using the same water pump housing though, as it seems to be in good condition, but I think I will go head and replace the water pump, all 4 hoses, all three belts, and some other smaller bits, bolt and fasteners. I'm going to soak some of the water pump bolts and clean the ends of the tube/port openings with CLR.

PS - A healthy dose of PB Blaster and my big breaker bar did the job on the tough A/C compressor bracket.