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  #1  
Old 10-29-2014, 05:48 PM
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Key won't turn in ignition

All:

When I got in my car today at lunchtime, put the blade-style key in the ignition and tried to turn. Took a few tries but it turned - first time that's happened. By the time I made one more stop and got back to work, it's taking longer to get the key to turn and steering wheel to unlock. This is not good. I've heard of this happening over time but not within a handful of starts.

I searched on W210 ignition lock, and found Jeremy's procedure on replacing the assembly.

Before I dig into anything or perhaps bail and take the car in, I am trying to figure out what is going on here. Questions:

This is the lock cylinder jamming up, correct? Or is there another cause?

If so, I don't see one that looks right for a '97 on Pelican - the ones they list for my car look like the old style early '96 down. I suspect the lock is '97 only as the key does not have teeth, but just a single squiggle cut lengthwise into each side

How does the microchip verification that's in my keyhead/fob (I'm blanking out on the acronym for it) fit into this whole assembly? Is the lock itself fairly normal and the ID system separate?

Thanks!

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'66 VW 1300 96K miles
'97 E300D 239K miles
'85 300D 203K miles (sold Sep 2012)


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  #2  
Old 10-29-2014, 06:40 PM
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If the lock jams completely, you will have to destroy things to get it apart so fixing soon is vital.

To take it apart the key must be turned to the 2 position so the cross bolt can be removed from what I recall. I have a spare column for my 97 SL320 that would not allow the key to turn all the way to the 2 position. Eventually I got it apart and the column locking parts had worn and jammed.

97 has a RFID chip in the key and an antenna ring around the lock cylinder, this is called DAS X.

If you replace with a lock / key from another car, you could get another antenna plug it into the small black anti theft box behind the instrument column, tape an old key in the ring and leave the whole mess behind the instrument cluster. ( 210 820 32 26 ? for the anti theft box ) Also, the boxes are locked to the engine computer so they must match.

Or, if you use a flip key, drive out the roll pin and put the new key bit in the old housing so you retain the proper RFID chip. ( the old fixed head key will no longer work in the lock but would have the proper chip )
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  #3  
Old 10-29-2014, 07:51 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I looked around some other forums too and found a very nice procedure for the '97 lock replacement.

I understand the DAS has to be dealt with but still am trying to understand how, and your example is one way. To be more stock-like, is it possible to order from a dealer a key and cylinder, where the key has the DAS chip for my VIN? It just seems to me that as often as this has happened, there must be a way to put it all back together just like stock. Or at least get a key and cylinder where the key is the kind that goes into a fob, and I can just buy a fob and swap the keys? Pictures on Pelican Parts pages show old style keys that are not appropriate for a '97. Perhaps I should contact them and find out.

Meanwhile, it looks like I'll be driving my bug to work tomorrow.
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'66 VW 1300 96K miles
'97 E300D 239K miles
'85 300D 203K miles (sold Sep 2012)


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  #4  
Old 10-29-2014, 08:36 PM
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You can get a new lock cylinder / key cut to order from MB that will work with your other doors by using your VIN. The flip key alone is ~ $ 150 , not sure what the lock cyl would be. Near as I can tell , all custom stuff comes from New Jersey so allow for build and shipping.

The flip key / fob has the RFID chip in the rectangular portion. If you installed used parts you would use the metal portion of the replacement key ( so it turns the lock ) and the black plastic / fob that contains the RFID chip so the anti theft releases. If your black plastic / fob is falling apart, the RFID chip can be plucked out and placed in the other housing. You would still need a old key for the door / trunk.

You can get a regularish looking "flat" key with a built in RFID chip that will turn the lock and run the car from MB for about $ 35. The head is short making it more difficult to use. The round "valet" key isn't sold by MB for some reason.
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  #5  
Old 10-29-2014, 09:51 PM
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OK, thanks. I may go that route, depends on $ and time.

Another problem right now is that I only have flat keys. Could just buy a new replacement cyl, and as long as the key that comes with the cylinder can be fit into a fob, I can order a fob (with the right DAS chip) from the dealer and swap the blades like you said. I just don't know, will have to find out - pictures on Pelican Parts show '96 style keys or blades with no heads - neither of which will work with the DAS. Same for other places on the web.

In the meantime, any advice/comments are appreciated. Will report back on what I find out.
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'66 VW 1300 96K miles
'97 E300D 239K miles
'85 300D 203K miles (sold Sep 2012)


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  #6  
Old 10-30-2014, 06:23 PM
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UPDATE: To the point, I went to the dealer and ordered a VIN-correct cylinder from MB. So I can use my old keys with their DAS chips, should be a drop-in replacement.

Side-note: Called the dealer nearest my workplace. Like I figured, they needed proof of ownership - a title would be fine and photo ID. Then they said they had to send someone to my house to personally verify the VIN was correct. Or else have the car towed there.

I asked why it mattered - I had legal proof I owned the car, and a photo of the VIN on my cell phone. Manager said that's their policy. Cost - $85 for the cylinder, $65 for the house call. The BS was free.

Called the second nearest dealer. Just a title and photo ID would be fine. Cost - $125. Not sure why they have such different pricing, but I went with that. They thought it should take 1-2 business days to come in, I hope they're right.
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Charlie

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'66 VW 1300 96K miles
'97 E300D 239K miles
'85 300D 203K miles (sold Sep 2012)


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  #7  
Old 10-31-2014, 10:25 AM
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Not your Year and Model. On mine I thought it was the Lock Tumbler but it turned out it was the innards of the Steering Colum Lock broken.

Since My Tumbler nas no Electronics I tossed in in an Ultrasonic Cleaner and a lot of tiny Particles came out of it.

I have had no issues since then.
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  #8  
Old 10-31-2014, 10:29 PM
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Well tomorrow we'll see. I did get the cheesy plastic trim ring and DAS antenna ring off tonight, and wow does that cylinder ever feel loose. It wiggles around with lots of play like it's ready to fall into the dash or something. Is there a way to tighten all that up behind the dash so it feels solid?
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Charlie

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'66 VW 1300 96K miles
'97 E300D 239K miles
'85 300D 203K miles (sold Sep 2012)


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  #9  
Old 11-01-2014, 09:25 AM
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From what I've seen, they all do that especially if you have tilt column. If the cyl was fixed, the slot in the dash would have to be huge. Also, production tolerances being what they are, some flop to get things to line up is a good thing.
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  #10  
Old 11-01-2014, 10:19 AM
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OK, that makes me feel better.

Eventually got the retaining collar off - had to turn the key way over to position 1.75 it seemed, but once it released it turned easily. Got the new cylinder in, put it all back together, car starts with original key.

One of the plastic rings around the ignition was brittle and broke somewhat during removal, but enough is still there that the DAS antenna and outer trim ring still sit securely enough.

Thanks to all who read and commented - sometimes the encouragement really helps boost confidence!

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Charlie

---------------------------
'66 VW 1300 96K miles
'97 E300D 239K miles
'85 300D 203K miles (sold Sep 2012)


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