606 ('98 300D) Coughing After Valve Seal Replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

hobberslobbers · #1 11-16-2014, 01:45 PM

just finished with the fuel pump valve seal replacement on my '98 300D turbodiesel. i fired up the engine (after much cranking) afterwards, and it rolled black smoke and sounded like it was missing on one cylinder.

to test my theory of a spec of dirt somehow getting into one of the lines up to the injector, i cracked open each of the hard lines one at a time and monitored any change in the idle of the engine. sure enough, on the #2 injector line (when looking at it from the front of the car to the back), when i loosened it, the engine just smoothed right out.

so, i have to order the injector socket and some braided line. so, here's the question: since the car has 160k, should i just go ahead and replace the nozzles on all 6? i have a pop tester and shims to be able to bench test. also, what socket do i need? my old 617 socket won't work?

great forum! thanks.

EDBSO · #2 11-16-2014, 02:33 PM

Some help here, I replaces all my nozzles and had an indie shop pop test

Diesel911 · #3 11-16-2014, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hobberslobbers

just finished with the fuel pump valve seal replacement on my '98 300D turbodiesel. i fired up the engine (after much cranking) afterwards, and it rolled black smoke and sounded like it was missing on one cylinder.

to test my theory of a spec of dirt somehow getting into one of the lines up to the injector, i cracked open each of the hard lines one at a time and monitored any change in the idle of the engine. sure enough, on the #2 injector line (when looking at it from the front of the car to the back), when i loosened it, the engine just smoothed right out.

so, i have to order the injector socket and some braided line. so, here's the question: since the car has 160k, should i just go ahead and replace the nozzles on all 6? i have a pop tester and shims to be able to bench test. also, what socket do i need? my old 617 socket won't work?

great forum! thanks.

The Injector Socket may be like this one-Baum Tool 22mm fuel Injector Socket but I do not know for sure.
Pelican sells Special Tools perhaps you could look there.

Also I cannot recall someone just buying one from Sears or a local Store because the 22mm one for the job is thin walled and I think longer then most deep Sockets are.

When you pop test the Injectors you will know if they need new Nozzles or not.

Vince Walden how to rebuild IDI Injectors.
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=28

hobberslobbers · #4 11-22-2014, 06:14 PM

thanks for the comments. today, with newly-acquired socket, i was able to get the injector out. put it on my pop tester and pee'd like a baby, starting at 1200 psi. not good. i was getting black smoke out of the back, so this was definitely the problem (waaay tooooo much fuel, waaaay tooo early on the cylinder). i went ahead and broke the injector down and gave it a good slathering and soaking of all the parts in brake fluid. 10 mins later, it was back together and back on the bench for another test. success! injector is popping consistently at 1950 psi with no spraying before the pop. the crush washers and other bits and pieces will be here early next week, so i should be back on the road soon.

hobberslobbers · #5 11-27-2014, 08:01 AM

the bits and pieces came and i got everything back together on the car. i still had the smoke problem. it's white smoke when cold or at idle. under accel, it is black smoke. the engine still sounds like it is missing about every 10 seconds or so. the dirty injector wasn't the culprit after all.

more history. earlier, when replacing the #2 delivery valve seal, when i very carefully removed the valve, i noticed that the internal component below the spring (still remaining in the pump) appeared to float up and rotate slightly clockwise. i was concerned about that initially, but didn't mess with anything. i went about the business of changing out the o-ring and copper crush washer on the valve and reinstalled the valve. when i hand-tightened the valve, it reached a premature stopping point. i took the valve back out to see what was going on. i tried pushing down lightly on the internal and it would not move down. so, i rotated it until it seated into a "notch" and it went back down into the pump. then, when i reinstalled the valve, it went right in and i was able to torque it off. after getting the intake back on, i started the car, and it smoked.

suspecting a pump timing issues, i went ahead and adjusted pump timing (without the 201 meter). probably a mistake, i know (hindsight 20/20). regardless of the degree of advance/retard on the timing, the car still smoked. so, i adjusted the pump back to the original scribe mark on the rear bracket and tightened the bolts back up.

i need some good advice as to what to do now. i am thinking that the internal on the #2 valve is the root cause. is there anything i can do without having to pull the IP and tear it down?

hobberslobbers · #6 11-29-2014, 10:37 AM

i saw this thread here. i also went too far and removed the barrel from the pump on the #2 valve. i am giving your instructions a go on mine. if i am understanding this properly, there are two barrels, a short one (directly under the valve) and a long one (goes over the piston underneath the short one). i figured out that your picture is showing the long one that goes over the piston. i marked and aligned the "notch" of the lower long barrel perpendicular to the fender and reinstalled. i am just waiting for my battery to charge back up for another marathon cranking session and will post the results. during a very smoky trial run, i got a glow plug (P0380) light, so i'll have to get that sorted out as well. that, however, is the least of my problems.

UPDATE: Doing the above took care of the black smoke. The car started and no more black smoke. Now, on to getting the glow plug issue taken care of, and then getting it back together.