UGH! BROKE 2 OUT OF 5 BOLTS WATER PUMP

[triacon]

The first two bolts felt loose when I started removing them, the next two broke and the final one came out. So, with that tight space limiting me, how do I extract the two broken bolts? 1985 300 SD 409,000.0 miles...

First time I ever broke bolts in such a tight space.

[leathermang]

There was a good thread in the last two weeks about those water pump bolts....
when you put them back in.... be sure to use locktite or antiseize of course... as if I needed to say that... but for others whose bolts are not yet stuck or broken.... always use that kind of stuff on those bolts....

[triacon]

yes, I almost alway use some type of anti seize when I re assemble. Do you have any links to the broken bolt problem? I need to get this car back on the road monday morning....

[leathermang]

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/362938-bolts-stripping-heads-shearing.html

[dieselbenz1]

Did you remove your radiator? You may have to and also use a angle drill. I feel for you.

[jay_bob]

The impeller housing can be removed on the OM61x engines without too much difficulty.

I have been there before. Worst part is taking the short 4 inch hose off, just really tight.

You will have a housing that looks like a genie lamp.

IMHO you are much better off pulling that housing than trying to drill out in situ.

[triacon]

So, are you saying that the impeller housing is what the water pump gets bolted to... and that it too is removable from the block? And that the impeller housing"connects"to the thermostat housing by that very short/wide rubber hose? (Or connects to something in line with the thermostat)

So, if I remove the impeller housing, I then still have to remove the broken bolts, but what I think you are getting at, is that it is easier to drill and remove them with a drill press, or at least, out of the car, with more room...

I saw larger bolts around the water pump and was wondering...

[Diesel911]

A guy over on Benz World broke Water Pump Blots and went to remove what People are calling the Impeller Housing and broke Bolts on that Housing also.

It is common to break any Bolts on the Coolant System.

[triacon]

Not sure what to do then. If I try removing the impeller housing, and break bolts there, I will have more trouble.

I guess I should remove the radiator etc and try drilling out the two busted bolts. I will try using the reverse drill technique. Will have to get some left hand drill bits.

[Fredmburgess]

I know you're not asking for votes here but... if it were me... and I've been in similar situations (lovely seized glow plugs on the '98 E300 come to mind)...I'd opt for removing the impeller housing with a huge dose of patience and a full can of PB blaster. This of course assumes you can be without the car for a bit. Soak those bolts and then settle for just moving them even the slightest amount back and forth. Soak some more. Repeat. When you get the urge to push for more rotation drop the ratchet, soak some more, and walk away. Of course, I suppose if you try to drill and miss you'll be back to removing the impeller housing anyway. Good luck whichever path you choose! (took me 3 days of that to remove 3 glow plugs on another E300, but beat the heck out of pulling the head and paying the machine shop to repair the damage I'd done by drilling off center)

[triacon]

If i am able to remove the impeller housing... Is there a gasket behind that too?

I am going out to look at the car now. will be back online with updates

[triacon]

Ok, so I counted 6 bolts (13mm) around the impeller housing. are there only 4 of them that anchor it to the engine? which ones to i loosen?

[triacon]

Ok, it was 5 13mm bolts and one smaller one at the 12 o'clock position.
I got the impeller housing out. Now to remove the broken bolts.

[SD Blue]

Instead of a rust remover, such as Kroil or PB Blaster, use a mild acidic lime scale remover. Full strength vinegar, CLR or Limeaway will work better to clean the threads. Liberal use beforehand might have avoided the broken bolts. I used it on mine and I believe it spared me a lot of frustration.

[jay_bob]

Nice. Good news you got the bolts out.

I would replace the housing-block and the pump-housing bolts with new hardware. Lowe's has the proper metric bolts and spring washers. Those are zinc plated and will get you by to get the car running again. At your earliest convenience order the official MB bolts that are yellow chromate plated and replace them.

And use anti-seize paste.

Good luck and remember one last tip:
When you go to refill, take loose the upper radiator hose and refill the engine with a funnel directly down the hose. Fill it as much as it can stand and reattach the hose. Turn your heater to max heat (or just unplug the mono valve) and pour what you can into the reserve tank. Start the engine and monitor the heat output from the vents and the thermostat. You should start getting warm air once the temperature gets above about 60C or so. Also helps to elevate the front of the car (either park nose up hill or go up on ramps). Keep the jug of coolant in the trunk and check it carefully the next couple days as the system expels the rest of the trapped air and replaces it with coolant from the reserve tank.