Awesome build.

Waiting to see more updates.

I meant to say star struck!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I thought it was a Britishism - like "boot". It's all I can do to keep up with American never mind British.

Dan

Or struck with a star? That could hurt! :-)

Nice of MB to leave a port for a boost gauge, but too bad they did not also leave a port for an EGT probe.



Installed heat and sound insulation. Dynamat is ridicuously expensive; i used Peel & Seal, a roofing product, that works almost as well at a fraction of the price.



Back to electrickery!

Bob

That looks very smart.

I agree Dynamat is very expensive - do you happen to know if Dynamat is smoke retardant? (And perhaps that's why it is more expensive than the bitumastic roofing stuff)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Good question, Stretch. And I do not know the complete answer.

Peel & Seal does have a UL Class A fire rating, which means "effective against severe fire exposure."

As you note, Peel & Seal is a rubberized asphalt compound. Dynamat is a butyl rubber compound, which is somewhat different. Both are polymerized. Hard to get detailed information since both are considered proprietary products.

As near as I can tell, the butyl has a higher heat rating that rubberized asphalt, and there may be differences in insulation or sound deadening properties.

I have had Peel & Seal in a 36 dodge coupe for over two years and have had zero problems. The very faint roofing tar smell that is noticeable when applying it goes away quickly, in part because it is closed in by the aluminum cover.

Personally, I am more concerned about potential smoke from wiring covers than from Peel & Seal. A while back I was testing a wiper motor and had the Chinese alligator clip wire I was using for a ground blow before a 15 amp fuse on the hot side. Filled the shop with acrid smoke .... from a wire only about 2' long!

...ooo OK - I'll keep an eye out for nasty alligator clips!

It is difficult to tell if the Dynamat stuff is just taking advantage of the the "rich" restoration crowd or not. Much like prices in supermarkets actual manufacturing costs seem to have little to do with "what the public will pay"...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Ive studied this concept. Trying to remember the details. But my conclusion was its worth the money. Something about having dead space in between. Honeycombs. I cant remember.

Although there is a guy making his own at a competitive price out of his garage somewhere.

I think I have the link saved at home. It was interesting.

But I think anything is a drastic improvement over stock.

Progress is slow, but at least it is progress!

I haven't forgotten that a couple of you scolded me for my dirty engine. It is still dirty, but I plan on pulling it later to clean it up, add Saab alternator and AC compressor. The hood comes off with 4 bolts, and the front sheet metal clip with radiator comes off with 6 bolts. Not as complicated back in the day ......









Next up is mounting the bed, after using CLR and rust conversion on the bed sides and rear fenders.

Bob

That hood emblem is looking great! My dad has one on his 92 Cummins truck.

I can't wait to hear how this thing does with the diesel in there.

Nice move with the quick remove front clip.

So far, it drives really well. Yesterday I drove about 50 miles up and down the highway.

If I let Mercedes do the shifting, it has "same day" acceleration, but if I do the shifting at 4,000-45000 rpm, it scoots along. Eventually I'll get around to adjusting the bowden cable and trans solenoid.

For highway cruising, I will need to change the 3.54 rear gear to 3.31 or 3.06 (27" tires). With the 3.54 it is happiest running 55-60 mph at 3k rpm.

Ha ha that's funny there.

If I ever need to scrap my 300TD I'll find a 4/5speed for behind the OM617 so I can shift when I need to.

I'm thinking 3:32 gears will work well in this application. 3:07s will probably be too tall to pull out with.

Nice seats!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Charlie what a fine build!!

Here is my Dodge version (+4 decades) with a 1999 Durango and OMG617 from an 84 300D donor.

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