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  #16  
Old 12-31-2014, 12:28 PM
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mach4,

It seems to me that I would need more clearance than shown in the your picture of the cribbing to the get the transmission out from under cars.

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  #17  
Old 12-31-2014, 12:57 PM
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all the low buck engine stands I've seen use a chain with a hook on the end to lift the motor from
My dad had one built out of oil driller tubing, and it had a bearing welded to the end, with a hook welded to it. super low profile, and easy to swivel. I plan to weld it to the end of my engine hoist someday...
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1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
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  #18  
Old 12-31-2014, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercedes Man View Post
mach4,

It seems to me that I would need more clearance than shown in the your picture of the cribbing to the get the transmission out from under cars.
Probably yes... Note that the picture only shows the cribs 3-high, and I have enough cribs to go 4 high. I've got 7" of clearance between the ground and the bottom of the car (mine is a 380SL so yours may be a bit different, but not much). Four-high cribs is 11" so that gets us to 18". I just measured the bell housing on the 722 and it is 14" so that gives you about 4" to spare...dragging the transmission on the ground. Using a transmission jack you'd need to add whatever distance that takes up. Remember you've got about 2" of spring you could jack up and still keep the wheels in the cribs, so that gives you about 6". If that's still not enough you could put some 2x8s under the cribs. Four-high is about the limit for the size cribs I built (and I don't think I've ever gone more than three), to go higher, you'd want to start expanding the base pyramid style to get more stability. And as suggested, make sure you work on level paved ground. And even with the cribs, it's wise to throw a couple of tires under the car and maybe even a couple of jack stands as insurance.

I really hate working under the car, which is why my preferred "transmission jack" is the engine lifting from above. Yea, I still have to get under there to disconnect the driveshaft, transmission mount, engine mounts, ground strap and so on, but it doesn't need to be nearly as high, or take as long.

Be safe!
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  #19  
Old 12-31-2014, 06:07 PM
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rear is a rope seal, front is a standard lip seal. I'm pretty sure the rear requires a lot of work to change. Do the front for sure while its out, as well as the turbo drain seals and the oil filter housing gasket.
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  #20  
Old 01-01-2015, 01:23 PM
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So does motor have to come out to change rear main seal? Is it a rope seal or standard ? What method or wrench did you use to get at the top trans to motor bolts? Seems they have an allen head and are impossible to get a wrench on.
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  #21  
Old 01-01-2015, 08:59 PM
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The motor has to come out to do the rear main seal. I seem you remember you also have to remove the upper oil pan and loosen the main bearing blocks to allow for enough clearance to fish the new rope seal through. There used to be a big write up on it with pictures floating around
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold
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  #22  
Old 01-01-2015, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dude99 View Post
The motor has to come out to do the rear main seal. I seem you remember you also have to remove the upper oil pan and loosen the main bearing blocks to allow for enough clearance to fish the new rope seal through. There used to be a big write up on it with pictures floating around
Here's some good info - PeachPartsWiki: Rear Crankshaft Rope Seal Replacement Without Removing Crank
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  #23  
Old 01-02-2015, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
My preferred method is with cribs. (Three-high shown but I've got enough to go four-high all the way around.)


Are the cribs 2x4s with 3/4" plywood?
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  #24  
Old 01-02-2015, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
um. may I recommend a slightly safer design?

cut a 2" strip of the plywood you use on the midsheet, and go around the bottom edge extending 1/2" beyond the top. that way, the crib you stack on top, is FIRMLY locked in place to the bottom one. slightly increases the stability of the crib.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #25  
Old 01-02-2015, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
Are the cribs 2x4s with 3/4" plywood?
The top one is as shown. The rest are just 2x4s. I used 2x3s on the top to act as chocks. 2x4s wouldn't let the wheels rest firmly on the 3/4 ply. I painted mine with latex paint and even after two years they actually still stick together such that they need to be smacked to separate them. I thought about using dowels to pin them together but that's completely unnecessary as I've found in practice.

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  #26  
Old 01-02-2015, 05:14 PM
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I like these wheel cribs made by Raceramps.

Full Vehicle Lift Race Ramps Category

Attached Thumbnails
Jacking up the W126 300SD for Transmission Removal-rrwc122.jpg  
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  #27  
Old 01-02-2015, 05:34 PM
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mach4,

Based on drawings in the manual, I estimated that the height of the 722.303 transmission is 16 3/8" which includes the bell housing and the oil pan. The clearance between the body and the ground is 10". Getting the car up on a 6" rim would give me 16". So if I jacked up the car a few more inches, the transmission would clear the body.

I still plan to use the transmission adapter, but I will unload the transmission onto two small 2 ton trolley jacks. Those trolley jacks would lower the transmission just above the floor so I could roll the jacks and transmission out together.

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