Jacking up the W126 300SD for Transmission Removal
 

I would like to replace the front pump seals, K1 spring, and rear seal on the transmission. I have been rehearsing removing the bolts. I have had success with removing the most stubborn bolts on the starter and the top of the transmission. Now, I have a problem with jacking up the car so I can get the transmission out.

In the picture, I have a floor jack with a transmission adapter I want to use. There is also another floor jack bigger than the one in the picture that will be also used to lift the car. If needed, I also have 2 3 ton bottles, 2 small trolley jacks, 2 jack stands, and 2 car ramps. I can jack the car high enough to set the tires into rims laying on the floor. Beyond that, I cannot jack the car any higher with all my jacks.

I will quote ************** about automatic transmission removal:

"Although a car lift is preferred, you can do the job on the floor of your garage provided you get the car safely supported a couple feet off the ground."

Tools required:

"Large heavy duty floor jack, jack stands or car ramps if doing this on the floor (lift of course is easier)"

I assume a couple feet off the ground is at least two feet. How do you jack the car up that high?

My preferred method is with cribs. (Three-high shown but I've got enough to go four-high all the way around.)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...in-cribs-1.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...in-cribs-2.jpg

You can put a couple of 2x4s between the jack and the jacking point and get some extra lift. You can also put something under the jack to get some additional height. As long as you're not under the car or in the "fall zone" you can jack the car in some pretty unstable conditions until you get the cribs under the wheels. I'd suggest getting the car up to a decent working height to lower the transmission to the ground then raise the car on one side enough to slide the transmission out. With the car on cribs, you can put a jack under the car and safely raise the car the additional height of the spring tension.

Or, you can use my preferred method of swapping transmissions and that is to pull the engine and transmission together using a lift and then swap the transmission out of the car where you've got some fighting room. Good way to have access to get the engine all cleaned up nicely and replace all those other bits that are tough in the car (cooler hoses, engine mounts, turbo drain, pan gasket, oil filter housing gasket, and the list goes on...and the stuff you probably need to replace anyway, like flex disks, transmission mount, exhaust hangers, linkage bushing, center bearing...). It's a little more work, but a heck of a lot safer.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ject-380-1.jpg

I use 12ton jack stands, and a cable strap to keep the car from moving forward or rear, then I use a floor jack to lift as high as possible, then I lower the floor jack, and place rail road ties between the jack and the frame of the vehicle, and raise it again as high as the jack will go...

this is EXTREMELY dangerous... lifting one end of the car, with the other end on stands, can cause the car to pull off the stands and fall to the ground... straps are REQUIRED to keep everything from falling...

on SMOOTH POLISHED concrete that is totally clean, the jack will slide as it lifts... on any other surface, the jack will dig in, and PULL THE CAR OVER... 2" straps keep the car where it belongs.

a better way is to NOT USE THE JACK ADAPTER FOR THE TRANSMISSION!!!
get a dedicated transmission jack that is VERY FLAT AND LOW TO THE GROUND.

All good advice. Vs is spot on. I done this several times and if
Done again, I would withdraw the engine and trans a pair. Probably less time
And expense/safer. IMHO
Good luck!

...and the tools aren't that expensive. A two minute search on the local Craigs List turned up these two examples.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1419977237

In addition, one would definitely want an engine leveler to get the proper angle to be able to withdraw the engine quickly and easily... Harbor Freight is your friend.

You come with one set of attachments.
Either work safely and keep those all intact
or
Dont do it.

Not doing so brings forth the vid of you laying on the floor, your arm or leg or ? pinned under a 3500 pound piece of steel that has no pity.

More like 3500 pounds, but the overall effect is the same...

Huh ? LOL

My first job was working for an auto garage... Years after I left, I learned that my old boss died from a car falling on him at home...

Will you change your rear engine main seal at the same time?

Thanks for all the comments.

I see the size of the engine lift and the space it takes. I do not know if there is room or enough height in the garage to use an engine lift. My co-worker lives the down the street and has always offered to lend me his engine puller.

Dieselbenz1,

It would be nice to change the rear engine seal too, but I read that the OM617 does not have a removable oil seal like other engines. The OM617 needs to be torn down to change the seal. I do not think the rear main seal leaks, and people have said that the OM617 rear maim seal is very reliable.

I thought the front seal was rope, but the rear is a one piece cartridge seal, easy to change.

Vstech,

I do not like how the transmission adapter either because it adds about 7" to the jack. I bought the adapter band new at a garage sale for $5. Now it is obvious why it was never used. However, I like how the adapter can tilt. It is also very sturdy as I tested it as an extension on the floor jack to jack the car even higher.

Vstech,

I will check into the rear main seal. With this old brittle rubber it would make sense to change the rear main seal too. I would like to put an end to these oil leaks.