1981 300sd
 

Hey guys just installed a om617 out of 81 300sd in my jeep wrangler tj and have excessive white smoke that smells strongly of diesel fuel and I was trying to check timing but the marks on the counterbalance is covered in paint and I can't see them.. how do I do the milli volt method on checking timing???
Thanks,
Ervin

Millivolt method is for setting delivery valves. Not the timing.
And it is an unreliable test.

White smoke is likely pissing injectors, or damaged cam not lifting the valves enough.

Valve clearance set too wide would also do it.

I adjusted the valves when I got the engine and haven't ran it but like 30 miles I have diesel purge and a boost gauge that's supposed to be here soon and was gonna go from their I was thinking the ip timing might be retarded causing the unburnt atomized fuel

White smoke can indeed be timing (not the only thing). The white is atomized unburned Fuel and why it smells like Diesel Fuel. When the timing on My Volvo Diesel was extremely late it billowed out clouds of white smoke.

You might as well just clean the Paint off so you can see the Numbers. In the long run you will be better off.

Not real sure on how exactly to time the ip.. when I loosen the ip bolts do I have to remove the ip or just spin it?

1981 engine? Need to drip time it. 24 btdc .....this will give you an idea how to do it......http://youtu.be/fh3rPhwnizY

So sterling counterbalance at 24 and loosen ip bolts and spin till I get around 1 drip per second?

A lot of People have trouble doing the Drip Method The first time.

If the Pump has never been off of the Engine before it does not take much rotation to bring it back into time.
Disconnect all of the Fuel Injection Hard Lines from the Fuel Injection Pump so it is easy to rotate and more importantly does not spring back.

Scribe a mark a cross the Pump flange to the Engine Block so if things get bggered you can return to the same spot and be no worse off then you were before.

One of the problems with the drips is that if the Fuel pressure varies the amount of drips are going to vary. To keep the Fuel pressure the same I rotate the Pump a tiny bit; snjg down one Nut to keep it from rotating and than I pump and pump on the hand Primer while watching the Drips. If you pump enough the amount of drips coming out is going to be steady.

If you have too many drips you start the process over.

It is extrmely easy to rotate the Pump too much.

Rotating the top of the Fuel Injection Pump towards the Engine advances the timing.
For more detailed info on the job:Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

Be sure to drip test it before you go to the trouble of scribing and loosening bolts. My pump was accurate after 33 years of not being timed. It was a new timing chain, though.

The scribing could be useful at a later date and it is not a lot of trouble.

Just get a Tungstan Carbide Scribe from Harbor Freight and scratch/scribe a mark acrosse the Metal of the block and pump flange and you are done.

The Scribe will be useful for later jobs.

Ok guys thanks I'll try it also when I cut the motor off and try to start it right back up its hard to start and when it does start it has no power at all. I have to hold accelerator down to get it to start.. Idk if the vacuum shut off is staying closed or what the deal is..

Anyone had this problem

my 1983 300sd had a power problem which i traced back to the key switch/vacuum.
what i did was to disconnect the vac hose to the vacuum shutoff power restored!
Replaced valve on the key switch now it shuts off with key and has all the power i need

so if your still low on power look for things that limit fuel. filters,tank screens,plugged tank vents, and partially closed shutoff valves.