I failed to make a mark where the IP was set before I started to play with advancing the timing. Is there some marking I can locate that index the IP from the factory initial timing?

I see what looks like >< this, one located on the IP flange and the opposite side of the flange. Is this something to use to return it to the stock timing. I did not remove the IP I loosen the injector tubing and mounting nuts so I can move the IP easy. I turned it towards the engine, the car runs great the way it is. Just curious to returning it to the stock setting and see how well it does run that way.

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1984 300D, 1972 LT1 Corvette, 2014 Artic White 3LT/Z51 C7, 2013 650i Convertible BMW, 1994 Kawasaki Vulcan, 1992 Yamaha Seca II and 1996 Dodge Ram 2500.

Did you use the one drip per second method to set it to its current position ?

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

"I see what looks like >< this..."

That may or may not be so. A few People have said there is some sort of make on thiers but I don't recall that mark on mine but I admit I have not taken a serious look for it.

Unfotunately where there for sure is a timing mark you would need to remove the Fuel Injection pump to see.
The drive end has a splined coupler/gear. 2 of the spines are flat and those line up with a chiseled mark on the Bearing Cap on the Fuel Injection Pump.
If the Fuel Injecti Pump is already removed you would rotate the Engine in the direction of rotation and it is coming up on the Compression Stroke and stop at 24 Degrees before top dead center. Make sure the Timing Marks n the Fuel Injection Pump Bearing Cap are lined up with the 2 flat splines and shove the Fuel Injection Pump into the Engine with the Studs centered in the Kidney Slots on the Fuel Injection Pump and tighen the Nuts.
Even after that you are better off drip timing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

With the other method you either use you Eyes to line something up or you buy the Timing Locking Pin Tool.

If the Car you are speaking of has a 1984 300D, and the Fuel Injection Pump is the original there is a 17mm Plug on the left side that is were you can insert the Timing Loocking Pin Tool.

To use that Tool you rotate the Engine in the direction of rotating until you are coming up on the Compression Stroke. But, in this case you continue on to OT (which is Top Dead Center on the Crank Damper) and you continue on past to 15 degrees (After Top Dead Center).
At that point you remove that 17mm Plug from the Fuel Injection Pump (about 1/2 cup of Oil will come out of it) and see if what lookes like the Blade end of a blade Screwdriver
is centered in the Hole.
The above assumes you can see clearly into that hole and see the Blade. If you can and the Balde is not visable in the Hole rotate the Fuel Injection Pump Housing till you get the Balde Centered.

If you cannot do the above you would need to inseret the Timing Locking Pin onto the Hole and rotate the Fuel Injection Pump till it locks.

For more info:Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

My 1984 engine & IP didn't have any marks that I noticed, nor did the 1982 engine in my 85 car. I did mark the "as found" position w/ a Sharpie, though I don't know if that was "factory". I recall the "drip method" found 24 deg BTDC "as found" and I set it to 27.5 deg BTDC (rotated top toward engine block). Can't say I noticed a difference in idle quality.

Advancing is supposed to give slightly better performance and mileage. It is hard to get at one bolt in my 1984 w/ the IP "rack position" sensor. I measured 26 mpg last highway trip, which included a mountain pass and idling for >1 hr in a traffic pileup.

I don't get overly-fussy with a "drip tube". Whether looking for 1 drip/sec or a squirt, it is a pretty sharp transition when the inlet port on the IP closes.