Winter oil change. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bsharp8256 · #1 01-17-2015, 02:19 PM

It's that time again, and all I can say is that I'm not looking forward to going out in the cold to do this on my 115

On some of the colder mornings there's an uncomfortably long time before I get pressure at the oil gauge, so I've been tinkering with the idea of going with a 0w-40 synthetic, which should make starting easier as well (although that's never been a problem, I've reliably started the 220d in 5F with nothing more than hitting the plugs and giving it a little throttle).

I'm well aware of the lengthy oil thread and discussions on zddp, etc. and I'm not really wanting to rehash all of that here. I've never used a synthetic before and I'd like to know if I can safely make the change with this oil change or should I go with a 50/50 blend? If I choose to go back to dino oil can I safely switch back? My engine currently uses no measurable oil, is going to synthetic (or switching back to conventional afterwards) likely to change that? Finally, for those of you who do run synthetic, what do you use?

Thanks!

rocky raccoon · #2 01-17-2015, 04:31 PM

you could consider acquiring one of the several excellent vacuum oil extractors available. You would not have to crawl under the car in any weather to perform your oil change. In winter it works like this:

- Take a short drive to warm your oil
- Loosen/remove oil canister top
- Attach oil extractor and pump up the vacuum
- Go back inside and have a coffee while your oil is being sucked into the reservoir
- Change your oil filter
- Fill your oil

IRT synthetic. It is a superior lubricant that works very well in my 312000 mile 300CD and it should work in yours. Once you use it you will never go back.

Skippy · #3 01-17-2015, 05:16 PM

You can switch back and forth to and from synthetic at will. You'll likely see faster cold weather cranking and less time to get oil pressure as your only differences. I've been on Rotella T6 5w40 for about the last 33,000 miles.

JHZR2 · #4 01-17-2015, 05:39 PM

I'd skip the 0w-40 which doesn't have any necessity in your climate, and go with a 5w-40 syn or 10w-30 semi syn HDEO. Rotella and delo offer both and are available at low cost at wal mart.

Straight from Mercedes.

The ccmc G5 oils are a older version of ACEA for euro oils, and the ACEA a/b/c/e sequence covers this well, as do the latest api "c" and mb 228/229 specs.

OM617YOTA · #5 01-17-2015, 07:15 PM

You can switch back and forth between dino and syn any time. I've heard of oil consumption and leaks increasing with synthetic, but my experience has been exactly the opposite. A motor that uses oil on dino will tend to use less on syn.

I use whatever 5w-40 made by a major manufacturer is least expensive when I go to buy oil. Delo, Rotella, Delvac, Mobil1, whatever.

Charlie Foxtrot · #6 01-17-2015, 08:54 PM

One of my customers has several early 80's W126's 300SD (see my album) all high time engines driven hard from northern Illinois to Colorado, California, Texas, New York and all points in between. He uses dino - sometimes Mobil, sometimes Rotella, some times the local farm store's private label (who knows??) , but always 15W40. Swears by it. And his engines seem to love it - lowest time car had close to 250,000 miles when it met up with a multi car pile up. Present daily driver has just under 500,000 miles - still running strong. Started this past week after sitting a week in near zero weather w/o block heater plugged in. GP x 2, then crank. Keep the GP's working/fresh, use a BIG battery and plug in the block heater.

Now, your symptom of slow/low oil pressure on cold start up is troubling. I'd verify gauge & sending unit operation. It may be something a simple as gunk in the port to the sending unit.

whunter · #7 01-17-2015, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsharp8256

It's that time again, and all I can say is that I'm not looking forward to going out in the cold to do this on my 115

On some of the colder mornings there's an uncomfortably long time before I get pressure at the oil gauge, so I've been tinkering with the idea of going with a 0w-40 synthetic, which should make starting easier as well (although that's never been a problem, I've reliably started the 220d in 5F with nothing more than hitting the plugs and giving it a little throttle).

I'm well aware of the lengthy oil thread and discussions on zddp, etc. and I'm not really wanting to rehash all of that here. I've never used a synthetic before and I'd like to know if I can safely make the change with this oil change or should I go with a 50/50 blend? If I choose to go back to dino oil can I safely switch back? My engine currently uses no measurable oil, is going to synthetic (or switching back to conventional afterwards) likely to change that? Finally, for those of you who do run synthetic, what do you use?

Thanks!

Switching oil type is IMO a personal choice.
My daily driver runs Mobile1 0W40 in the winter, and switches to various other types for summer, with no issue.

.

nelbur · #8 01-18-2015, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Switching oil type is IMO a personal choice.
My daily driver runs Mobile1 0W40 in the winter, and switches to various other types for summer, with no issue.

.

Why would you not use Mobil 1 0W40 in the summer as well. I doubt you can find a better summer oil.

charmalu · #9 01-18-2015, 02:22 PM

The only vehicle Iam using a Synthetic in, is the 80 240D. Switched it when we were at 321K miles, we are now up to 373K.
The engine before the switch every now and then would leave a drop of oil on the Concrete.
Now after all these added miles with the Synthetic, I still get a drop every now and then.

Oil consumption is still about the same as it was before the change.

Iam using 15w 40 Amsoil Marine Diesel.

No I don`t sell it, but am a preferred customer (signed up under a guy) and can buy it for the same cost as a dealer.

I don`t switch back and forth between oils, summer and winter. just stick to one oil.

Charlie

rob300SD · #10 01-18-2015, 03:05 PM

I use Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 5w-40. I used synthetic for many years in the past in other newer cars, more than a decade. No issues. It may leak more because it's thinner when cold, but it won't ruin anything.

My car would barely crank at -20C with regular 15w-40. So I had to switch to synthetic.

JHZR2 · #11 01-18-2015, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nelbur

Why would you not use Mobil 1 0W40 in the summer as well. I doubt you can find a better summer oil.

There is no reason. A 40wt is a 40 wt oil, specified by viscosity at 100C. The 0w- aspect relates to the pumping viscosity at -35 Celsius.

Given that most folks exist in climates where severe below zero weather is not an issue, and because often the viscosity at near-freezing points is about the same for 0w and 5w oils, the 5w-40 HDEO diesel spec oils are the better bet.

An oil like M1 at best holds an obsolete API CF diesel spec, if that, while a modern HDEO will provide a more diesel-specific add pack (better for suspending soot), and a higher level of zinc (ZDDP).

Skippy · #12 01-19-2015, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

There is no reason.

Actually there's a very good reason: Cost. 15W40 dino works fine in the warm months and costs about half as much as synthetic. So, if you drive enough to be doing two oil changes a year (or more) then switching oils for the weather can make sense. I haven't been doing it because I've only put 44,000 miles on my car in 9+ years.

JHZR2 · #13 01-19-2015, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skippy

Actually there's a very good reason: Cost. 15W40 dino works fine in the warm months and costs about half as much as synthetic. So, if you drive enough to be doing two oil changes a year (or more) then switching oils for the weather can make sense. I haven't been doing it because I've only put 44,000 miles on my car in 9+ years.

You can argue that, but the 0w oil will pump up better and flow better in all startup conditions, even NV in the summer.

So sure, the difference will be smaller under the warmer conditions, and thus if you're doing twice yearly changes, why not use the 15wt. But IMO easier loading on the starter and better pump ability year round justifies using 5w-40 HDEO year round.

I've done this since my firs MB diesel, well over a decade ago, when most weren't considering synthetics at all.

whunter · #14 01-19-2015, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skippy

Actually there's a very good reason: Cost. 15W40 dino works fine in the warm months and costs about half as much as synthetic. So, if you drive enough to be doing two oil changes a year (or more) then switching oils for the weather can make sense. I haven't been doing it because I've only put 44,000 miles on my car in 9+ years.

Cost and availability are factors.
I can order M1 0w40 from several local sources during the summer $39.00 per gallon.

During the summer there is always a local store with 5, 10 or 15W40 on sale for $17.00 a gallon.

.

Charlie Foxtrot · #15 01-19-2015, 08:30 PM

Cost - Ouch! I get dino for $9-$14 per gallon (private label - Rotella, Mobil usually falls in between). Depends how the sale is structured, its either one, two or five gallon containers.

As for weight of the oil, please check with API &/or SAE regarding specifics on how multi weight oils are assembled. Short story version - the first number/lower number reflects the viscosity of the base stock, the second/higher number reflects the mix's hot performance. Multis are a blend of base stock and lots of additives. I've seen very expensive aircraft engines turn into scrap because of a wrong guess regarding multi performance when hot. I am leary of going too low & going too high is no solution, either. (I started wrenching when cars went from non-detergent to detergent & the first multis started life. I worked for a while at one of the major oil company's research center. I watched the 10W-40 ash content mess/bad guess w/gas engines from the research center. I am NOT a Chem E, nor do I work in the oil industry. I do keep up w/lubricants as part of my day job - last in-service lubricant training was this past fall.)