Hi All,

My lower oil cooler line recently started leaking and I'm due for an oil change in another 700-1000 miles so I figured this would be the time to take care of the oil cooler lines as well.

I'm inclined to use mach4's solution if I go with an "aftermarket" solution. I don't like the idea of using heater hoses. This is my daily driver and if I go that route, I figure I would need to pull an oil cooler and used lines off a junker car first so I can fabricate the lines outside of the car.

I figured I would call the dealer first just to see what they have. My understanding was that the lines are NLA, however the dealer will ship them in from Germany at $330 each!!! I did a search on the part number and a few OEM parts places will sell the lines for $264/each.

Pelican has the upper line selling for $60 with a Cohline which I understand is a reputable brand. They are selling Trucktec for the lower line which is rated on the same level as Uro on the 500e board (500E / E500 Parts Manufacturer Quality List).

I also tried throwing the same part number into eBay and found this listing for Burgaflex:

New Burgaflex Engine Oil Line 617 187 12 82 for Mercedes | eBay

I haven't heard of Burgaflex before. Does anyone have any experiences with them? Unfortunately, there's no pic.

At this point, I may just pay the $264 for an OEM and buy the Cohline as a spare. I really don't want to play games with this and it seems to be a difficult decision either way. The lower line is a real PITA and I don't want to blow my engine with a hack job. Last year, I put 20,000 miles on the odometer.

Dkr.

Hmm... looks like I've been here before and not too long ago...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1724509-oil-cooler-lines.html

I wonder if the Burgaflex could be the OEM. Perhaps if I buy the OEM, I can compare the numbers with what I had last time.

Dkr.

65,000 miles on my setup already...I'm very confident in the solution.

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

I replaced mine with appropriately spec'd rubber hose and some doubled up serious hose clamps. No issues.

Mach4's solution is the bullet proof option for sure.

Eventually I plan to split the difference. Braze some JIC fittings onto the steel pipes and have some hydraulic hoses made up. Should cost ~$100 and once done, any hydraulic shop, tractor supply, aircraft mechanic(JIC crosses to AN), and many auto parts stores across the country will be able to fab replacements.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

The advantage of AN fittings (and JIC too I think) is that you can make up the hoses yourself with only a couple of wrenches. The fittings are designed to be reusable. If you felt like it you could carry the replacement hose in your spares box along with filters, return line, voltage regulator, belts, duct tape and bailing wire.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=PeeflgGlenY

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__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

I don't remember what info is in the links below.

Oil Cooler Hose
BURGAFLEX
Burgaflex
Burgaflex - Your Global Airco Specialist
Home - Burgaflex - it's not just a hoseBurgaflex – it's not just a hose - Your global hose and fitting specialist

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I don't remember what info is in the links below.

Oil Cooler Hose
BURGAFLEX
Burgaflex
Burgaflex - Your Global Airco Specialist
Home - Burgaflex - it's not just a hoseBurgaflex – it's not just a hose - Your global hose and fitting specialist

I don't know what Forum this came from as My notes are kind of random.
Date registered: Oct 2009
Posts: 364
The lower line came in today. It seems a good deal smaller than the upper line and is gold in color. As with the upper line, there was no packaging. It says "Made in Germany" on the metal pieces that connect to the rubber but no mention of Burgaflex anywhere. The rubber bears the markings: 33/11/61 11:52 CONTI-15x4- >AEM/AEM< 33/11/61 11:52 CONTI-15x4 >AEM
Burgaflex
Burgaflex North America, Holly, MI 48442
http://www.busacparts.com/Refrigerant_Hose_Lubricants/Refrigerant_Hose_LubricantsBurgaflex

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That's funny. I made that post about two years ago...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/5902811-post19.html

Dkr.

I opted just to use hose and clamps on my original Fittings and Nipples. I did that because I stripped 3 of the Threads off of My upper Oil Cooler Nipple and did not want to remove the lower fitting from the Oil Cooler and strip another Nipple. The point here is that I put stuff in My Notes that I have no use for except to pass the info on.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

When we did the Jeep swap, I had some custom hoses made up at a local hydrolic shop, I paid $63 for both and they were close to 4ft long each one. Steal of a deal, and they made them up while I watched. They are pretty serious hoses rated for 2000psi if I rember right.

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

Wait so you did this two years ago? So we shouldn't buy those ones?

That was for my ex-girlfriend's 300D. I broke up with her a few weeks after finishing the job and have no idea what happened to either of them.

Dkr.

As much as I am not keen on spending the extra money for Mach 4s approach, that is what I am going to do. I already got a pair of used hoses to tear into and rebuild.

Everyone should read these posts too:
www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/302729-oil-cooler-line-replacement.html
www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/364907-oil-cooler-line-repair.html

I just finished replacing the hose in the oil cooler lines of my 1984 300D. Not leaking, but I took them off for a weld repair and figured prudent. Since I have a manual AC hose crimper (Master-Cool ~$120 ebay), it was fairly easy. As the 1st link says, -12 AC hose works (5/8" ID). I bought a 50 ft roll of Aeroquip GH134 "reduced barrier" hose a year ago (good deal) and already used 12 ft between this job and rebuilt AC suction hoses for both 300D's, and haven't even gotten to my old Mopars. Of course std -12 would work too. The reduced barrier is thinner so flexes easier. I found that the -10 std dies work fine, which is good because "reduced" dies are expensive and rare (perhaps others figured out not needed).

My hoses didn't look too bad until I cut the crimps off (hacksaw across end, longitudinal cut w/ electric cut-off wheel, pry), which shows how hardened the rubber was. Also, bending the smooth hose squeezed out oil drops, showing the surface was crazed. This hose looked after-market (Cohline). The other hose had a nylon wrap and might be factory. It looks like my new Aeroquip hose, though I couldn't read PN's. M-B may have used the same hose as on the AC suction lines, since at least one of my cars had similar nylon wrap there.

The gold tee points to a hole in the smooth hose that was "chain-sawed" by the pwr steering belt several years ago when it flipped over (probably broken AC belt tangled in it), plus probably minimal clearance (sagged motor mounts). Luckily no engine damage since a little showing on the stick and must have happened near home on my son's 500 mi drive, but did make an underhood mess. At that time, I swapped in a spare oil line.

My main recommendation is to cut the new top hose 1" longer (15" vs 14"). That makes all the difference in p.s. belt clearance as you can see. But don't cut the lower hose 1" longer like I did (12" vs 11"). I should have verified that bright idea, but my projects are never complete w/o at least one fubar. I had to push the tube back so it didn't try to kink.

The choice of AC hose was discussed in the linked posts, so please don't flame me. It is rated for the temperatures and pressures, and also for use w/ hot mineral oil, if you read Aeroquip's catalog. Ditto for Goodyear Galaxy barrier hose.

If you don't own a crimper, hose clamps work fine. They were used on most AC retrofits in the 1960's w/ few problems, and those see >200 psig. Oeticker -style "ear clamps" would look nicer and you can crimp those w/ a nail puller. I would use those for an on-car repair. Use 2 on each end and stagger the gap.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Update: 91,000 miles now....

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica