This was the original problem. The master was leaky as well the slave. I replaced both along with the rubber line to the reservoir and the line between slave and master.

Still funky. Not returning, usually from a stop.

We bleed and bleed and bleed. The front was up on jacks, and the pedal felt good. Once back level it was funky again and sticking.

Could I have a defective master? Or what's the deal with adjusting this spring? I've ran across something once about it.

I did run this master and slave for a bit with the old lines. At one point it lifted up but wouldn't go back down. Rock hard. Like the plunger came up but the part that moves the fluid stayed. Could I have damaged it?

I'm feeling like a should go into the shop for a good bleed. To the guy that's been doing it for 30 years.

My throw out bearing is making some noise when clutch is engaged.

Is there anyway this could be an issue with the actual clutch?

The pedal feels kinda "creaky."

You were "the one" doing DIY gaskets for the slave cylinder weren't you? Could your throw out bearing noise be related to that?

(Probably not - but it is nice to make you wonder!)

It sounds to me like you need a good bleed.

How are you performing this task? (Which way you go?)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Sounds like you still have air in the system.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Yep. That was me. I've thought about that. But this flywheel has been machined.

You all are making me feel better. Haha. I get paranoid that problems are worse than they are.

I'm a pretty good mechanic, but I'm not experienced with mercedes. The time has come to go in.

I just completed rebuilding my differential, new head, valve and IP timing, I can't remember what else, and I need help bleeding the clutch.... Smh.

Has anyone had the experience that the car needs to be level to bleed? Or lift the back end maybe?

I tried to make it easy on myself by sticking the front end up in the air.

I think my problem is the tubing I'm using. I clamped it down with radiator clamps but if we pushed the brakes too hard it would leak.

I think there is a design flaw by mercedes. If the brake bleeder and slave bleeder are supposed to connect, why is one nipple so much larger? My small tubing won't fit the brakes and my large tubing won't fit the slave.

This Indy will tell me his tricks. And I've gotten so many freebies I don't mind taking her in. But I'm thinking of using the smaller tubing and heating it with a heat gun to get it onto the brake nipple.

But I'm reaching the point of inefficiency by monkeying around.

Bleeding the clutch is a pain using the brake slave, try this http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/319093-note-clutch-bleeding.html

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I came across that in my research and almost bought an oil can. I tried my pressure bleeder but air pressure didn't have the juice to go up. Need to add a nipple to pressurize it with my compressor maybe. Or get an oil can.

I bit the bullet and dropped it off. As soon as I said bleed the clutch they shook there head in agreement that it is difficult.

Plus they will take her for a test drive and do a once over. He's been working on these since they were new and knows exactly where to look.

I want to take it on a road trip a few hundred miles north this weekend and will feel more comfortable.

But I'm going to have to address that wining throw out bearing eventually, and will need to get bleeding down as I can't take it in every time.

As I was parking it did the weird thing where I lifted the peddle and it came up but didn't bring the plunger with it. Wouldn't go back down. I turned the car off and restarted and it went back to normal, and actually felt better.

But I may not be so lucky if this isn't done right. And if i break down a few hundred miles away I'll spend more than what I'll pay the shop just in fuel for a truck to come rescue me.

It's not a bleeding issue. Says the shop.

My theory is i damaged it running the original hose that was crushed.

The shop says there are 3 different lengths for that master. But pelican only listed one. And I doubt they got it wrong.

Any takers? Why are my problems always so strange?

Stretch, I will admit it if it ends up being that gasket. Haha.

Alright I stopped by Friday after 4pm and got to shoot the crap with him. My god that shop is nice. He has everything. Literally. All the best toys.

He said there were multiple different length masters. We confirmed the part number on mine matches my vin, but judging by the 123 240 fuel filter setup, someone could have swapped a working master and rod from another car. The new master didn't come with the rod.

The bolt holding the rod is eccentric. Adjust that first. Then take it off and see if it is releasing all the way. In amateur fashion I remember kinda forcing it all to line up.

He thinks the master is not fully releasing with the rod being too long. As well, the assist spring is too tight. Common with old ladies driving.

So I'll try that.

But does anyone know the measurements in master lengths? For curiousity, cutting this one, or ordering the right master...

If you are talking "clutch master" go back and check out my post #7. at the end of that post there is a pic of push rods, the shorter one is white and the long one is black

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

And there it is. lol. Missed it the first time around.

Would you happen to know the lengths on either? Or correlation between vehicles?

The man was saying you can trim the longer one, but I see a little ball on there. I don't remember that being the case.

I'm pretty certain I have a new in box W115 slave cyl around here somewhere.
I even have a running '71 220 with a 230.4 engine, 4-speed transmission (with good clutch, it has an electronic racing ignition system and Weber down draft carb if you want to buy it before I list it fs on CL or (perish the thought!) send it to the recycling place.
DDH

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

I highly appreciate that thank you. I believe mine is ok but I know it got over extended so maybe.

As far as the motor, hopefully it sells. I am a diesel guy, but have a M110 I'm trying to sell also. I'm debating selling the motor in parts and junking the block if it doesn't sell. I did this with a diesel and it went well.

The difference between them is 6mm, I can measure them in the morning if no one comes up with the measurements.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"