The vehicle is a 85 300D, automatic, WVO two tank. I am Traveling South Florida and am in need of advice/assistance.

The vehicle started "loosing power" under load from a stop in both Diesel/Veggie. It felt like tranny slippage.Thought it was an air leak (Still possible and unrelated). Symptoms became worse and had to get pushed up a Gas Station Apron. The vehicle made it back to its destination, at high rpm's and minimal power. Once parked, engaged Reverse, backed out, engaged Drive and tranny was slipping. Smelled like burnt tranny fluid, looked under car and fluid is pouring out when motor is running.

Sounds B2 piston related, is it worth trying to replace just the piston if other damage is possible? How should I proceed?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I am stranded in Homestead, FLA.
Ryan 516-428-5475

If you get to Palm Beach county I have a good indie which could help.

I can have the car towed 100 miles on AAA. I'm searching around Homestead for a garage that will let me rent lift and tools. If this turns out to be fubar, I will indeed be searching for a good mechanic.

I have a good friend in homestead, let me check


Sent from an abacus

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

She recommended "garage yourself" which is about 20mi away in Miami.

She said she has friends who have used it and love it.


Sent from an abacus

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

Where is the fluid pouring out from? Front, rear, LH side, RH side?

One of the first places I would look is the hard lines going to the transmission cooler. The rubber cushion inside the clamps deteriates and you eventually end up with metal-to-metal contact. This eventually wears through the line and what starts as seepage ends up with a major leak. It takes pulling the clamps and looking for abrasion where it was attached.

New hard lines were ~$50 when I replaced mine about 5 years ago. (I too was stranded in a parking lot, hours from home.) You may be able to get by, for a very short period of time, with fuel line and clamps covering it. I did this and it got me home but it wasn't long before vibration caused other problems and I ended up just changing the lines.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I did not have the issue as bad as yours. Mine had to be reved to engage first and then after that it was normal.

Changing the AT Filter and Fluid seemed to fix that till less then one year later the B2 Piston broke.

I really don't know if the first issue was being caused by the B2 Piston or not but there was grabbing marks on part of the B2 Piston where the Metal Bushing rides on it.

Also others have simply had a failure of the Seal.

When the B2 Piston is out you need to see if there is an issue with the B2 Band. I did that before I ordered the Piston, Seal and Bushing.

About all you can do is poke on the Band end and see if it springs back and of course you can look at the Bottom of the AT Pan for debris.

I don't know if using a lift is going to make the Jobe easier because I remember having to remove the Support that is under the Transmission and that means you need something to hold the Transmission up. If the Car is on a lift and above your head you are going to need something long to make if from the Floor to the Transmission to support it.

You also need to shove the Tail end of the Transmission to one side in order to have room to deal with the B2 Piston removal.
The nice pictorial on the Diesel Giant site are not of a W123.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Update: I went for the rebuild from a tranny shop in Homestead. 20k miles later, it shifts like its new.

How much was it?