i replaced my 617 a few months back, and at the time of the first oil change, i found that the oil pan drain bolt was too large, plus sitting in stripped threads. currently it is in place and slowly leaking. i'm weighing these options:

* remove, drill and retap for either an even larger bolt or a helicoil insert
* JB-weld it closed and always use the dipstick tube method
* R&R with OEM pan ($105 new on pelican, listed as 2.85lb, or $27 at the yard a county or two over)
* R&R with "meistersatz" pan ($23 pelican, listed as 2.85lb)
* anything else to consider?

considering that all these options require removing the pan, i'm leaning towards the cheap knockoff (i also like the pun in its name, but that is besides the point). how could using a crappy oil pan go wrong?

thanks for all advice!

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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

No problem w/ the cheap pan here on my 616.

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Do not understand what you mean by drain bolt 'too large'. It should be a metric bolt. I have had luck with using an imperial bolt ( slightly larger size ) and shove it in. You have nothing to lose, the worst case is to replace the pan or just plug it with JB weld.

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The drain is in the lower pan, which is pretty easy to remove. I'd pull it and drill and tap for a tapered pipe plug - I think 1/4" would work fine. Get a brass plug! That won't seize in the steel pan. The tap will be $5 or $10 (and you'll have it forever), the plug maybe a buck or two. You'll need a pan gasket one way or the other though you could just use RTV. Whatever way you go, use something (I use a "tweaker" small straight screwdriver) to clean out the socket head screws that secure the pan. If you round out the hex in one of those you'll curse yourself. Somehow I bent a screw and a trip to the hardware turned up a 6mmx17 socket head screw in the little cabinets - no issue.

The only reason you need to pull the pan to do this is to make sure there's no filings in there. If you use grease on the drill and tap you could do it without even pulling the pan down - depends on your comfort level. BTW - if you don't have lots of drill bits, Lowe's in our area is selling a 2-pack with the tap and the bit and they're not very expensive.

Good luck!

Dan

I used the cheaper oil pan and haven't had any issues with it in 5+ years. It's a whole lot easier than some kind of modification and will likely be the more permanent solution.

Personally, I hate having to go in and redo things. Most of the issues I've had on my car is from someone (previous owners/mechanics) fixing things by temporary modifications.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

My vote would be the cheaper aftermarket oil pan, easier solution.


.

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Current Stable

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If you drain out the Oil and use something like Wheel Bearing Grease in the grooves/flutes of the Tap you will trap any chips.

The same with a Drill Bit except that you need to turn the Drill Bit slow enough with a variable speed Drill Motor not to melt the Grease.

I like the Pipe Plug idea.
I can't remember what size the Oil Pan Plug is but it might be that you can screw in the 1/4" Pipe Tap with out drilling if you are careful. Also since the Pipe Plug seals on the threads if the hole is not straight it is still going to seal if you use some Teflon Tape or other sealant.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The Meistersatz stuff is actually pretty decent (in my experiences), and good price. I wouldn't hesitate to buy theirs.

If you decide to repair yours, DON'T use a helicoil, or spiral thread insert. They will probably leak and they don't like to stay in place.

Get a Time-sert or one alike. Those are excellent and have repaired many damaged threads including oil pans with them. Best to get the rethreaded hole clean & dry and put some hi-strength loctite on the time-sert too, even though they expand into the threads on install.

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If you need parts, I have some!

Search results :: Qwik Valve

I have been using this quik valve for about four years with no issues.
No more messing with the bolt.

I'd get the cheap pan and a quik valve.

Jeff

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

Ditto. I got a new pan and installed an ez valve. SOOO much better..

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Hi Aaron,

IMO go with the aftermarket pan. I got one last year or the year prior. I think around $25 bucks. NO Issues at all. It's an easy fix changing the lower pan, probably no more than an hour maybe two max. Gasket was cheap also.

Sounds like the cheap pan should work out for you. I'd also point out that you have pretty much nothing to lose to try tapping the original pan to a tapered pipe so I'd do that first. If it proves to be OK you're all set and if you need the aftermarket pan you're not out much.

Dan

thanks for the quality feedback, everyone!

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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

Hello. Does anyone know the size of the Meistersatz oil pan drain plug? My original plug does not fit. I think they are both M12s, but not sure what pitch or length to buy for the aftermarket pan. I tried 1.25 and 1.75 pitch and no luck. (So I'm hoping it's a 1.5...) Anybody else have this issue? I'm hoping it's not a manufacturing defect in the pan because I unfortunately already bolted it in so no dirt would get in engine. Live and learn.

My car is a '76 240D W115.