I think I just made a big mistake.

The plan today was to replace the valve stem seals on my 1972 220D.

I removed the valve spring and nuts from the exhaust valve on cylinder 1 and the valve dropped into the combustion chamber.

I could see part of the end of the valve when looking down through the valve guide and tried to coax it with a wood skewer but now it's nowhere to be found.

It looks like I now need to remove the head but since I cannot turn the engine over, how will I align the camshaft?

The last time I replaced the valve stem seals on an OM615 I thought for sure the cylinder would not lower down enough to let a valve fall in.

Obviously, I feel like an idiot.

.

magnet?

/

__________________
w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

I think you're on to something.

I just looked again and I can see a sliver of the end of the valve through the seat.

Maybe a long reach magnet will allow me to coax it back into center.

If the end of the valve is still in the guide, you may be able to carefully turn the engine clockwise via the crank bolt and get the piston to push it up.

You should determine whether the piston is on the upstroke before you do this or you risk losing the valve altogether.

__________________
1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

Try using a magnet pick-up tool to align the valve stem in the hole and then carefully try to push it up with the piston.

I have not worked on 220D engines, but, possibly more access to the cylinder could be had if you removed the pre-chamber. That might allow more access for you to align the valve stem.

__________________
Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

Presumably, the valve would drop straight down, and a 61x has vertical cylinders if not on an incline. The chain is still on. Have you tried simply rolling the engine over? Because of the tapered flank of the thread on the valve, I expect that being .010 or more off center would not be bad.

When I did valve the guide seals, on my 616, I found TDC #1 (t!ts up cam) and then pulled the cam. I used needle nose pliers on to hold the valve stem while I pulled the nut end spring keeper, then replaced the nut, only then letting it fall on the piston at TDC. TDC for each piston thereafter follows the firing order (1-3-4-2? Its cast in the valve cover, IIRC) a half-turn of the crank later. (I think, second source it to be sure). This would be 144* for a 5 cyl 617.

You might just try a harbor freight brain scratcher or similar:
24" 2-in-1 Pickup Tool
the one shown will not make it into the hole, but you should be able to find one that does.
OEM/4 prong claw flexible shaft pick up tool 25291 at AutoZone.com

I used Kent Bergsma's recipe for this job. I could mail it to you. If you are truly wikid stuck, and unable to get the valve back on center I would zip tie the chain to the sprocket and mark the front cam tower where the timing mark falls on it, then pull and reinstall the head. Be sure to put the valve back in first. Mind the torque sequence.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

The valve has dropped below the edge of the valve guide.

I'm currently trying to align the valve in the guide with a wood skewer while using the crank nut to turn the engine over and push it up with the piston.

It's a dance for sure but hopefully I will get it sooner or later.

I like the idea of pulling the prechamber, if your engine has one. Never worked on an engine from that era.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I think if my current plan of attack doesn't work I will remove the exhaust manifold and go in that way.

Thanks to everyone for their help. Hopefully I'll have good news later today.

What happen to the magnet? A pickup magnet/tool shop stick right to the top and then use it to pull the valve back up? I use these "tools" for everything including testing gold they have a very powerful magnet on them as do hard drives...

Here is a cool fail safe method for changing valve guides "PLUS" you can also do the exhaust manifold gasket. You simple remove the intake/exhaust manifolds. Grab some cotton/polyester rope and push the rope into the cylinder till you can't anymore and then no fear of valve drops.

I must hope that "kent" didn't suggest this repair...

__________________

I swallowed my pride and removed the manifolds.

Great tip about the rope. I may just try that on the other cylinders after I get this valve lifted up.

Thanks.

Well, I was able to get the valve back in place with a, you guessed it, magnet.

Now back to the original job at hand and more subjective questions like, "Is that valve stem seal seated?".

Crisis avoided. Thanks for your help.