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  #1  
Old 03-30-2015, 06:56 PM
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Have you replaced all of your W210 lug bolts?

I am learning the hard way about the...ahem...disadvantages of the original lug bolt design on the W210....Grrrr.... See thread mistakenly called "wheel stud issue."

How many of you have replaced all twenty? I may do that just so I don't ever have to deal with this again.

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06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2015, 07:37 PM
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Question

Never had a problem with mine. Maybe because I'm a big believer in applying anti - seize to their threads whenever they're out?
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
Never had a problem with mine. Maybe because I'm a big believer in applying anti - seize to their threads whenever they're out?
My understanding is that, with lug bolts, clean and dry is the way to go...no anti-seize.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Last edited by shertex; 03-30-2015 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:49 PM
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I have replaced them. I had one that a garage installed after mounting and balancing tires that had to be drilled out. The garage insisted that they used a torx (sp?) stick and could not have over torqued it. They spend 2 or 3 hours getting it out.

Never, ever, use anti-seize on a lug nut or bolt.
The torque specifications are for a "dry" thread. If it is lubricated with anything, the correct torque cannot be achieved. This can result in an under or over tight fastener.
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  #5  
Old 03-30-2015, 08:11 PM
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I never had any good luck having tires changed at tires shops both times I took it in. Technician dropped the lug bolt down a grate and stuck on an imperial bolt from the bin thinking I wouldn't notice but I did so that was a major event. Next time different shop technician drove in a car needing a brake job and used my car to stop it duh duh! So no car for a week while it was at the auto body.

I have since always did my Season change overs. For new tires I drop off the loose tires and pick them up a few days later.

Ditto clean dry lug bolts and use a torque wrench.
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  #6  
Old 03-30-2015, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
My understanding is that, with lug bolts, clean and dry is the way to go...no anti-seize.
Always adjust the torque wrench - that's a given. 25+ years with no problems using anti-seize on any of our equipment. I'm not in the rust-belt as I see all the posters are. That's probably the reason you're getting seized/rusted then.

If; "clean and dry is the way to go," then why would/did they seize/rust?
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:32 PM
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Obviously, over-torqueing by tire shops is a major cause of the stuck lugs problem, but they do get locked by rust due to the threads rusting in the steel hubs. The only way I know of to stop the rusting of the threads in the hub, is to coat them with something to protect them. I have always used anti-seize. In my opinion the torque is mainly developed where the bell shaped portion meets the rim, and that will not change when anti-seize is used only on the threads. I suppose there are other protectants that could be used to coat the hub threads, like low strength thread lock, or some type of thread sealant, but anti-seize has always worked fine for me. I still have all my original lug bolts on my '97 with 237k miles.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselbenz1 View Post
I never had any good luck having tires changed at tires shops both times I took it in. Technician dropped the lug bolt down a grate and stuck on an imperial bolt from the bin thinking I wouldn't notice but I did so that was a major event. Next time different shop technician drove in a car needing a brake job and used my car to stop it duh duh! So no car for a week while it was at the auto body.

I have since always did my Season change overs. For new tires I drop off the loose tires and pick them up a few days later.

Ditto clean dry lug bolts and use a torque wrench.
I monitor the tire techs best I can when taking my units in. I coat the threads when they're off the unit, before they re-mount the wheel/nuts or bolts. Sometimes they get one past you. Gotta be careful in their workplace too.
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  #9  
Old 03-30-2015, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by nelbur View Post
Obviously, over-torqueing by tire shops is a major cause of the stuck lugs problem, but they do get locked by rust due to the threads rusting in the steel hubs. The only way I know of to stop the rusting of the threads in the hub, is to coat them with something to protect them. I have always used anti-seize. In my opinion the torque is mainly developed where the bell shaped portion meets the rim, and that will not change when anti-seize is used only on the threads. I suppose there are other protectants that could be used to coat the hub threads, like low strength thread lock, or some type of thread sealant, but anti-seize has always worked fine for me. I still have all my original lug bolts on my '97 with 237k miles.
I've been using it (anti-seize dressing) since the early '80s. Friends with heavy-equipment; over-the-road 18/wheelers & trailers/DetroitDiesels/Caterpillars were using it, as well as on all their Mercedes-Benz diesel cars. Never a problem with lugs or bolts/nuts.
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  #10  
Old 03-31-2015, 07:52 AM
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Ordering 40 today....one issue I'll never have to deal with again.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #11  
Old 03-31-2015, 08:15 AM
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Ordering 40 today....one issue I'll never have to deal with again.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #12  
Old 03-31-2015, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
I am learning the hard way about the...ahem...disadvantages of the original lug bolt design on the W210....Grrrr.... See thread mistakenly called "wheel stud issue."

How many of you have replaced all twenty? I may do that just so I don't ever have to deal with this again.
Only "problem" I ever had with the lugs came about when I went to rotate my tires. I had purchased my car used, and it had the original spare in the trunk. I was in the process of rotating the tires which had mag rims. I had taken off one of the tires, and replaced it with the spare that had a steel rim. When I went to tighten the lugs, I found that the mag lugs were too long, and could not be seated, and locked up the wheel by hitting the back plate. Luckily, I was doing this in front of my house. Had I been on the road and had a flat, the spare would have been useless. Had to get shorter lugs for the spare, and found out later on that the car had a special set of lugs when it was purchased, but mine were missing.
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  #13  
Old 03-31-2015, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
Never, ever, use anti-seize on a lug nut or bolt.
The torque specifications are for a "dry" thread. If it is lubricated with anything, the correct torque cannot be achieved. This can result in an under or over tight fastener.
What is the torque spec on lug bolts?
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  #14  
Old 03-31-2015, 10:01 AM
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I think it's generally somewhere around 80 ft-lbs. Honestly, I just do it by hand. I'm not a very big guy, so it would be pretty hard for me to over-tighten them.
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  #15  
Old 03-31-2015, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pimpernell View Post
Only "problem" I ever had with the lugs came about when I went to rotate my tires. I had purchased my car used, and it had the original spare in the trunk. I was in the process of rotating the tires which had mag rims. I had taken off one of the tires, and replaced it with the spare that had a steel rim. When I went to tighten the lugs, I found that the mag lugs were too long, and could not be seated, and locked up the wheel by hitting the back plate. Luckily, I was doing this in front of my house. Had I been on the road and had a flat, the spare would have been useless. Had to get shorter lugs for the spare, and found out later on that the car had a special set of lugs when it was purchased, but mine were missing.
your car came with a stamped steel wheel for spare? Mine has a 5 spoke black alloy wheel

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