'82 300SD-184K-Time to Roll in a New Chain?
 

Hi,

I have been thinking of have a local indy do this for me after I purchase a chain.

I'm not sure if it is time to do it or not. I have not checked stretch and don't have patience to do that nor the tools required.

The local indy in Anderson SC, quoted me 4.5 hours labor at $90 per hour but said he would roll in new chain if I provide it and also adjust valves for a total of $427 plus tax.

I need L and R upper control arms put on. Those are ordered.

I've put 30K on car and have not done valve adjustment so it needs to be done however car starts and runs fine. I use to do stuff like this but I don't any longer.

He has the crimping tools and his Dad has run the shop for decades and their name is Waters. Classic Car Repairs. Son is Mike.

My concern is the fact there is a bottom chain too and would it be best pulling engine to do both chains or is this over-kill?

I wonder if the bottom chain fails after the top chain is renewed. I guess it has.

Anway, just kicking it around a bit in my head.

I'd let a forum person do it if anybody was into this sort of work and is within a few hours drive.

I'm in NW corner of SC.

Sort of undecided right now. Now doing shocks and upper front struts. You know how it is you start and keep going.

Anyway, there you have it.

Steve

If oil changes have been performed as they should I would not worry about installing a new timing chain till after 250k miles.

Measure chain stretch/wear first.

Both Gearhead and I have done 3 timing chains on OM617 turbo cars and it is not that hard. You do need the crimping tool and a temporary link, though. I have one concern about my 300SD but that is to be in another thread.

Upper control arms can be done without removing the spring and are not difficult at all. Shocks are the same, no need to remove the spring. However, if you are going that far, you might as well do the rest of the steering and suspension if it needs it. Piecemealing it will only make the end result take more time.

The only way to know if the chain needs to be replaced or not is to measure the wear (stretch). If it is 5 degrees or more, time for a new chain.

See my post #6 here for a pdf document you can take to the mechanic for them to check your chain:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/203770-timing-chain.html

I'm also attaching a picture that shows the cam tower mark and the camshaft timing mark.

I like to lay a ruler along all the cam towers, lined up with the marks (they all have the mark) and hang the end of the ruler over the camshaft shoulder timing mark, then look straight down using one eye and carefully rotate the engine until the marks are lined up.

Understood,

Maybe I will ask if he can check the stretch/wear if this is a good indication of impending chain failure. See if he can judge pending failure by it. I know allot on this site about it.

I'm not concerned about performance, it runs ok. It goes for A to B.

At the rate I drive it I'd be 80 years old when clock hit 250K.

I'll see what he says.

As far as oil changes, etc, I've had it for 30k. I've used Syn T6 5W/40W. I change oil ever 3K-4K or once a year.

Previous owner seemed to take good care also. He was 2nd owner, I'm 3rd.

Nice to know spring can be left alone and UPA done, thanks.

I have shocks but tired of crawling around on ground with no lift is all.

A general repair shop is fair at $58/hour for general work such as shocks and UCA's and they do good work quickly.

Steve

Hi Max,

I read that article and it seemed to lack dial indicators that I thought you needed.

Seems easy that way in article.

Did not know there was a graduated scale below.

I will show mechanic article.

That should not take long at all.

Thanks

So I guess we can assume the chain stretches before it breaks to put it simply.

Max,

You could eat off the inside of you engine.

Great condition!

Great picture and picture shows the marks real well.

Keep it up and you'll have me doing it.

I use to adjust valve on VW's but been decades ago and those were simple and if you dropped something it went on the ground not into the engines.

Steve

I have 350,000 miles chain still good.

'83 300SD>>>
 

I put 305K miles on mine w/o even checking the timing chain. I didn't even adjust the valves the last 212K miles I put on the car either.

Saw a new chain on Ebay that fellow did not put in his Son's car. The chain snapped at 280K so he stripped all the new parts he had put on the car that were only a year old and the chain was NEVER PUT ON so it was still in the box. He wasn't as lucky, but perhaps car was not taken car of prior to him getting car or his Son hot rodded it if u can hot rod a diesel. I guess you could do that. I usually keep mine below 3.5k on the tach but this is shifted down on gear on grades.

You didn't adjust the valves for 212,000 miles?!?! :eek:

Might have been 305K miles, w/o valve adjustment - since I bought it used as a 1-owner when it was 8-years old with 93K miles on it.


I know, I know......I should've done them......(adjust valves). :o