So I can't get my om617 started. I was doing some work on it started and ran just fine (after the work) . All was great. I was inspecting the Ip pump for leaks and noticed several of the bolts that hold the elements in (mw pump) were loose. I think it's the elements anyways. The shims have a plus on the right 2 bolts hold down each element. I tightened the bolts not thinking anything would happen. My om603 in my garage are tight.
Well ever since I tightened those bolts it won't start. I pulled off my helper pump from my om603 and put it on the 617 thinking there was air in the system and I ran out of diesel.. I loosened each injector line and cranked the engine. I can only get cylinder 5 line to bubble. No fuel from 1-4.
Any help would be appreciated.

I think you must have done something to the injection pump, but I'm not sure what you did. I'd recommend you learn all you can about your IP and then try to fix it, but beware that some things can be touched without ruining the calibration of the IP, but it is also possible to move/change something which takes the pump out of calibration.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

IP Full Load Adjustment Procedure for the MW and M pumps

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96 E300d

I do not know your injection pump type. At the same time whatever you did is potentially an issue. At the same time even if put out of calibration I would still expect fuel to flow to the injectors.

Now if the delivery valves for each element where somehow forced to stay open I would expect your result.

Putting up a picture of your pump and what bolts you tightened might help some member suggest something.

The adjustment is the first thing I read. I'm familiar with it cause I have a om603.here is a pic of the pump.

Attached Thumbnails

 

That is a turbo pump....an 80 should be a non turbo...

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It's a turbo diesel. The back hatch says turbo diesel on it also.

Have you tried cranking with the throttle slightly open and then seeing if you get fuel out of 1 - 4?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I tried half and full throttle.

When I got the car I remember the guy pointing at the pump and saying he had a hard time starting it once. He said he had to mess with it. He loosen the nuts on the pump (pics) and twisted the elements. I'm sure that does nothing
I'm trying to get ahold of him.

Can you pick out the bolts in this thread?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/306090-papas-got-brand-new-om617-ip-play.html

(May be also there's enough information there to help you answer some questions?)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Something is wrong....because it isn't a 1980....Post a photos of the console area to show me the climate control....1980 was a non turbo year with the evil ACCII. There are many arguments about the TD on the rear of the wagon...its stands for Touring Diesel not Turbo Diesel...

Here is a 1980 300td that failed to sale on ehell..

Mercedes Benz 300 Series 300TD | eBay

Also on that injection pump....you still have the old twist out and prime pump....this fail and fail....so you will not be able to bleed the air out of the system. Stretch a condom over the pump, cracked the hard lines at the injectors. Crank the car over until you see fuel seeping from each line...tighten and then see if it starts.

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I apologize it's a 81 300td. The back hatch says turbo diesel on the right side.

OK looking at the site you sent. The bolts that hold the delivery valve. And cylinder 4 is missing a shim.

The primer pump is yellow you in screw and pump. (don't think it works) when my helper hump is on fuel don't leak. As soon as I unscrew the pump fuel sprays out. I will try the condom thing.

OK I read the post.
Question delivery valve. Can someone explain how to properly install a delivery valve. Should I pull each one and inspect.
Can someone explain adjustment?

Thanks for trying to help me.

Delivery Valves

There has been a lot of talk about “cutting” the Delivery Valves in an effort to deliver more fuel. The Delivery Valve is a very important part in the fuel delivery system, and although altering it will result in a greater amount of fuel being delivered, it does so at the expense of delivery control. The reduction in delivery control translates into a ruff idle, excessive smoke, and quick rising and very high EGTs.

The fuel injection system is actually “tuned” as there are pressure waves generated as the injector operates. These pressure waves, if not managed properly, can cause secondary injections to occur long after the point where the injected fuel can be used to make power. The extra fuel, instead of contributing to useful power, creates smoke and high EGTs.



Turning the Delivery Valve Holders

You may read about people “Turning the Delivery Valve Holders”. What they are actually doing is loosening up the Plunger Barrel lock nuts, and rotating the Plunger Barrel by putting a wrench on the Delivery Valve Holder as the holder is screwed into the Plunger Barrel.

This is not a good idea.

When the pump is assembled and adjusted, the output quantities of each Element (Barrel and Plunger assembly), have to be balanced. On the MW IP, the output quantity of each Element is set by rotating the Barrel one way or the other to either increase or decrease output. The output of each Element is measured on a machine, and is done at several different speeds and throttle power settings to insure that the output across all the Elements is as close as possible, this insures smooth operation and that each cylinder is producing even power as opposed to one not producing as much as the others.

Although turning the Barrels can result in an increased max delivery out put, it dose so by extending the delivery dwell, (pulse width), and the later the end of delivery, the more smoke and the higher the EGTs.
Additionally, the power balance between cylinders is out the window.
You can play with them to get a decent Idle, but the balance is averaged across the entire operating range which means you may have a smooth idle, but at high speed the delivery spread may be way more than it should be.

When the Barrels are turned to increase output, it accomplishes basically the same thing as moving the rack forward, and the engine speed will increase, requiring you to reduce the Idle speed. Additionally, all the Governor settings are out the window because the Rack position will be different at each governed delivery setting. This is why you will hear people say the return to idle was terrible, or that the engine wanted to run away. The Governor is trying to regulate the Idle, but because the Barrels were turned, the old idle Rack position is now as if you have stepped on the gas, and the Idle Governor can not pull the rack back far enough to reduce the engine speed.

By now you should be able to readjust the governor to compensate for the new Rack position, but the cylinder balance will be off and the end of injection will be late at full power, resulting in a reduced length of time you can be at full power, and therefore reducing overall performance. More overall performance can be achieved by making the proper adjustments.