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  #1  
Old 04-29-2015, 04:23 PM
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OM606 Viscous Fan Bolt

Anyone know if it is hex or torx, planning on this R&R next week. I ask because PP sells a replacement torx---not too fond of them so far.

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  #2  
Old 04-29-2015, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treetops View Post
Anyone know if it is hex or torx, planning on this R&R next week. I ask because PP sells a replacement torx---not too fond of them so far.
As far as I know it is hex (8mm I believe).
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  #3  
Old 04-29-2015, 05:58 PM
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Yes 8mm hex. Torque to 33 ft lbs. The stubby short 8mm hex socket and pulley holder tools make this a 4 minute job.
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  #4  
Old 04-29-2015, 06:19 PM
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Great I have the tools then, WP pulley holder and I used a 8mm hex wrench and cheater bar on the 603. Not 4 minutes but quick and easy. Seems I can also unbolt the rad support for more room too.

Now which clutch does not roar like a truck?
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  #5  
Old 04-29-2015, 07:56 PM
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Definitely get the shorty 8mm hex socket bit, or you will be calling it the vicious fan coupling bolt.
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both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
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  #6  
Old 04-29-2015, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treetops View Post
Now which clutch does not roar like a truck?
The official MB one sure does, when my engine hits 82 degrees it locks in and it sounds like the engine on a garbage truck...
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #7  
Old 04-29-2015, 10:24 PM
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Replacement bolts are indeed Torx. PITA to find a tool that fits in the available space; you end up buying a whole set for one driver. Last visit to the junkyard I robbed a few cars of their hex-head bolts for my spares kit; hopefully I'll have enough to last a lifetime (mine and the car's).

Jeremy
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  #8  
Old 04-29-2015, 10:24 PM
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Replacement bolts are indeed Torx. PITA to find a tool that fits in the available space; you end up buying a whole set for one driver. Last visit to the junkyard I robbed a few cars of their hex-head bolts for my spares kit; hopefully I'll have enough to last a lifetime (mine and the car's).

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #9  
Old 05-10-2015, 10:06 PM
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Its in and sounds like a truck!! That was actually a lot easier on the 606 than the 603. The trick is undo the rad support and voila plenty of room to work with and thankfully no vicious radiator cuts. 8mm allen with a cheater pipe, pulley holder and room to spare made this R&R a breeze. I think it took about 40 minutes, not counting a phone call and fixing some other things.

Now, I have hopes this will also help the AC work better by keeping the coolant temps in check. I noticed the AC seems to be definitely not as cold at around 90C vs 80C. Interestingly, temps never got above that w/o a good fan clutch even in stop and go city traffic.

Well ready for summer anyway.
Attached Thumbnails
OM606 Viscous Fan Bolt-cltfan.jpg   OM606 Viscous Fan Bolt-cltfan1.jpg  
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  #10  
Old 05-20-2015, 12:11 AM
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Fan Bolt

You cannot use a hex wrench there is not enough room. I used an 8mm viking socket a 1/4" breaker bar with a deep socket in 3/8" extension. Just barely enough room to get the socket in. You can cut off a hex wrench but unless you do it is too long. Make sure the hex is all the way in the bolt is very soft and easy to bugger up. I threw mine away and bought a hard bolt to replace it.
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  #11  
Old 05-20-2015, 12:25 PM
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I beg to differ, unbolting the rad. support and moving it forward provides plenty of room, more than available than on my W124. After it is loose, the bolt can be turned by hand and goes back in the same way.

Agreed, make sure the tool is in the bolt head fully so as to not strip/bugger it up.
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2015, 02:10 PM
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treetops,

Did not unbolt the radiator so it was tight next time I'll try that thanks for the info. How do you move the radiator forward on a 606.910 I just went and looked at mine and there is no way I can see to unbolt the radiator support. Would like to know so I can do it next time. Sounds much much easier.

Last edited by JRImrie; 05-21-2015 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Question
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2015, 05:02 PM
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In the second photo the two bolts at the top of the picture are for the rad support there are a total of 4 unscrew them and you can pull the radiator forward. I would assume it's the same for your model.
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  #14  
Old 05-21-2015, 05:11 PM
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The radiator support for a W124 is welded on, its not removable unless you wish to cut it. User JRMrie claims an OM606.910 engine - which was only installed in W124 models.

The way I remove it from a W124 with 6 cyl diesel is to first crack it loose with a regular 8mm hex key with an 8mm socket and small extension on its tail to gain leverage.

once loose

I use the little shorty socket I have to undo it all the way

to install it one has to hold it like a cigarette to push it in and then use the shorty socket to complete the threading.
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  #15  
Old 05-21-2015, 08:34 PM
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Ahh, my bad. It is always helpful to have a sig that denotes from where and model(s)

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