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  #1  
Old 05-07-2015, 05:06 PM
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New Oil line seeping

I took my W123 for another little drive yesterday. Came back home, had it idle and popped the hood, just to admire the beauty that is the OM617 happily clacking away...

And I was shocked when I checked my new oil lines. The lower one is seeping. Right where the rubber meets the metal collar it is seeping oil.

The line was made by Trucktec. The upper line is made by Cohline, and is fine.

There is no other brand available from Pelican Parts for the lower oil line.

I am so mad, angry and disappointed right now. Getting those lines changed was quite a horrible job, and I was so happy when I got it done. And now I need to buy a new line somewhere and do this awful job all over...Again!?

Part of me just wants to live with the seeping line. I don't care about the oil leak. My W123 leaks oil from so many places that I stopped caring about the stains in my garage...

However, part of me is very afraid this line is going to blow at some point. Anyone else that has a Trucktec line on their car that is seeping?

I'm going to contact Pelican Parts, see if they can be a little lenient and maybe provide some kind of a refund. I've ordered all my parts from here, so I'm hoping I'm a customer in good standing. But ugh, SO FRUSTRATED RIGHT NOW...

EDIT:
As extra information: I changed the lines 2 months ago, but couldn't drive the car right away since the carrier bearing and flex discs on the drive line were shot.
I changed those out last week, and was hoping I could actually drive the car now.

I noticed the seeping right away after I changed the lines and ran the car at idle for a bit after I changed the oil & filter, but at the time I thought it was just oil running down the lines from me touching it everywhere with my oily hands when I put it in.
Now that I've driven the car a few times it's clear that the oil line is seeping.

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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

Last edited by Ceristimo; 05-07-2015 at 11:40 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-07-2015, 06:10 PM
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Location: Middle TN
Posts: 4,154
I had the exact same thing. Fortunately, the problem was the fitting on the oil cooler itself had a hair line crack in the female part where the ball of the line seats. Diagnosis involves removing that end of the line and taking a really close look. You may have to remove the cooler to get a good enough view.

You have 2 choices if that is the issue.

1) source another cooler either new or used and install or

2) find a replacement fitting. There is info on line re the number for the repair part. You will have to cut off the old fitting then drill and tap the hole. The drill and tap are relatively expensive for a 1x use so consider that in your calculations.

Others have said that the required fitting is the same that's used on the oil filter housing and a yard may be a source. Of course, you need to go to the yard, find and remove the fitting which may be more of a pita than it is worth.

Edit: I just re-read your post. If the line itself is leaking, replace it. I remember reading that the top line has to come out to remove the bottom. But that may be on a 126 only.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #3  
Old 05-07-2015, 06:11 PM
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I think the opinion on the Trucktec lines is pretty low, unfortunately. The fact that nobody has a different brand led me to planning on doing the AN conversion. Especially since my oil cooler was broken in an accident anyway.

The way the almighty engineers wound the lines (especially the top one) under and between everything is absurd. I never want to do that again.

-Rog
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  #4  
Old 05-07-2015, 06:17 PM
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@Junkman
Interesting. I will have to investigate that. However, I cleaned the oil cooler fittings before I put everything back and I had the oil cooler out of the car. I did not see any cracks as I was cleaning the fittings, but then again: I wasn't specifically looking for them either.
Also, I can see the oil at the top of the metal 'collar', right where the rubber line attaches to it. If the fitting on the oil cooler itself would leak, one would think I would not see oil there, as it would have to travel up, to show up at that spot. The bottom of my oil cooler is wet with oil, but that's to be expected if the line leaks where the rubber meets the metal collar.
So I really do think it is not my oil cooler, but it should be something I have to take a closer look at.

@Rogviler
Yes. I hated having to jack the engine up. It felt a little...unsafe? I was glad I got the job over with, and I'm really dreading having to do it again.
The good news is that I would hopefully be able to do it in one afternoon now. I was struggling with the lines being super stuck the first time, but I'd assume that everything would be easier to remove now, as they haven't been on there very long.

Also, it appears I am not the only one that has this issue with the Trucktec lines. I found another topic from about a year ago here:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354513-new-oil-coolant-line-82-300d-leaking.html

Question remains though: To drive or not to drive...

And I guess let this be a lesson for those that are attempting this job in the future: Stay away from the Trucktec lines if you can...
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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)
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  #5  
Old 05-07-2015, 07:43 PM
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I've got leaking lines on the 85SD AND others have had catastrophic failures so...we've been warned. The 85 is currently sitting awaiting front end refurbishment and it is sitting safely in the drive - fortunately before I needed a lesson in engine R&R.

Line conversion is looking for that one.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #6  
Old 05-07-2015, 10:01 PM
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You have another option vs. AN fittings; hydraulic hose. Take it to a shop that does these hoses, and they will replace the crap hose. I myself wanted to do AN fittings, but I am unsure I can afford it.

And mine is leaking too, but mine are OE. Most of my driving is in town right now, and I watch my oil pressure like a hawk... I've also been watching some threads on an early warning system when the oil level drops below a certain point, an alarm is sounded.
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  #7  
Old 05-07-2015, 10:22 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Yeah, but once that oil line blows, at any speed above 40mph, you'll empty out 8 quarts of oil in 5 seconds.
I don't think an alarm will matter much. You'll have to respond very quickly.

I also watch the dials like a hawk, but it's an unpleasant driving experience.

Bottom line is I need to suck it up and buy an install a new oil line, but man: am I frustrated right now!
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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

Last edited by Ceristimo; 05-07-2015 at 10:33 PM.
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  #8  
Old 05-07-2015, 10:23 PM
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Careful. Where will the pressure drop first? I honestly do not know...
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  #9  
Old 05-07-2015, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fahrvergnugen View Post
You have another option vs. AN fittings; hydraulic hose.
I highly recommend that. It's what I did when I did my engine swap. Once you get the fittings brazed onto the hard lines and drill and tap the cooler for 1/2NPT to -10 AN adapters you can do the hoses yourself. And reuse the fittings if the hoses need to be done again. Plus the stainless braided hose looks killer.

I've had the hoses on and off half a dozen times over the last 75k miles while working on stuff where a little extra clearance helps.

...if it's good enough for airplanes, it's good enough for our cars.
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  #10  
Old 05-07-2015, 10:35 PM
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@Mach4
I understand that, and I've seen the topic on that. But, I really don't want to drill and tap the oil cooler. What if that goes wrong?
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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)
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  #11  
Old 05-07-2015, 10:52 PM
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Engine Oil Line, and coolers has been a topic since the forum started.
here is a link to many Cooler line topics.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/211352-engine-oil-cooler-hose-line-issue-link-thread.html#post1738108

The original oil cooler Lines that MB installed at the factory, and the after market one`s available today are not one in the same. Originals were made of a much tougher material and looked to be wrapped and rubber.

The new one`s are a thinner type rubber hose and probably won`t last any where near as long as the originals.

The original metal ends I believe had several barbed ridges compared to the after market ones. so this is one reason I believe the truck tec one`s leak or seep oil from the start.

I bought a replacement after market set several years ago, and could not get on of them at the Oil Filter end to tighten and not leak.

I finally used the old set, and had a Hyd Shop braze on AN type fittings, and had new hoses made to screw one. problem fixed.

It might be best to source a set off a junker at PNP and have the AN fittings brazed on.

If they are leaking or seeping oil, you are on borrowed time. When one blows, you will have a quick oil change.

If you can`t afford to fix the lines, then can you afford a new engine or replacement car.?


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #12  
Old 05-07-2015, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
@Mach4
I understand that, and I've seen the topic on that. But, I really don't want to drill and tap the oil cooler. What if that goes wrong?

Pick up a spare Oil Cooler at the junk yard, they are around $20.

mach4 drilled his because he used a right angle fitting.

If you use the stock metal pipe end and braze on AN fittings, then you do not have to drill the cooler.

If the threads on the Cooler strip because the steel collar and the Aluminum have corroded, then you will have to drill and tap for the Screwed nipples.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #13  
Old 05-07-2015, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
@Mach4

I understand that, and I've seen the topic on that. But, I really don't want to drill and tap the oil cooler. What if that goes wrong?

Drill and tap bigger. Put in a plug.

Or braze a patch and rework.

Thats the beauty of metal work. Why I like it better than wood. Its hard to go to far and not come back.
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  #14  
Old 05-07-2015, 11:21 PM
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Sorry to hear your troubles... I finished this same job a few weeks back. Replacing the original lines (lower one seeping at the cooler) Indeed, what an oily PITA it was.

I also installed a new trucktec line and agree it is not as quality a part as the original. The rubber is "flimsier" and I bet is only single layer. Shame since the package indicates its made in Germany.

I cut out the originals and they are indeed double layered (hose within a hose).

I've only driven a 100 miles or so since the replacement. So far no leakage. Dealing with pilot bearing issue, trans is out of the car again.

I actually found a newer upper used OEM replacement hose in the trunk of a w123 at the boneyard.

I also nabbed an oil cooler from a w126, learning from the board here to have a spare.

Surprisingly, the oil cooler fittings and upper cooler fitting broke free without much effort. But the lower cooler fitting was seized... PB blaster or heat, no joy. The original cooler is now still sitting on my garage floor.
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  #15  
Old 05-07-2015, 11:36 PM
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@84-300dee
Yeah, my lower line was seized on the cooler as well. I cut the original line so I could take the cooler out of the car and I got lucky; after applying moderate heat it came off.

@lucas
I'm not much of a metal worker, I'm afraid... Thanks for the advice though

@charmalu
I have yet to find a pick n pull yard here in Fairbanks... Or any place that sells second hand W123 parts here, for that matter... The W123 is not my daily driver, so if the worst were to happen and the line blows, I will just not have a W123 anymore. It won't affect my daily life much. It's also not a money matter: A new oil line costs a 100 bucks so that is not too bad.
However, it is just that I don't want to do this job again. I just did it. I'm going to see if Pelican Parts is willing to refund the cost of the lower line - since it has been defective from the start - and I'll see if I can source an oil line from another manufacturer. Fun stuff.

For now I guess I still won't be doing much driving with the Benz... At the rate things are going summer is going to be over before I can drive it.

EDIT:
You know, on second thought: You guys might be on to something...I'm gonna gather some more information on these AN fittings... Maybe that should be the way I should go, though the thought of drilling in the oil cooler makes me a bit nervous.

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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)
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