The only reason to remove it is to change the tensioning rail. You can follow the story here: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/368330-camshaft-play-om602.html

I'll re-post my idea here. Weld a stud onto the end of the pivot pin, pull it out, remove old rail and install new, insert new pivot pin from dealer. No need to remove the head.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I really like this idea - but I did vote for head removal.

I'd remove the head for another reason (knowing what's happened so far)

I'm paranoid about fast worn metal from timing chains and cogs and could not sleep well at night knowing that there might be some swarf floating about inside...

...I'd remove the head and really clean everything...

...I know I'd be asking for trouble - but that's what I'd do.

My advice comes with the warning in the form of the two threads listed in my signature as prime examples of what usually happens when I take stuff to bits!


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Part number for the pin is

006325008108

CAMSHAFT AND CHAIN DRIVE. Fits: 1992 Mercedes 250 D TURBODIESEL Sedan | Mercedes-Benz of South Atlanta

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!