Wood trim question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Phil · #1 06-19-2015, 08:57 PM

Has anyone come up with a good way to re glue the wood trim on the dashboard?

Wodnek · #2 06-19-2015, 09:52 PM

Joann Fabric has a glue that works decent. apply the glue, hold it a few minutes, then apply masking tape to hold it overnight. Next day remove the tape.

Phil · #3 06-19-2015, 10:14 PM

That might be interesting. I'll look in to it. It looks like the problem is when the wood separates from the base the curves don't match.

Phil · #4 06-20-2015, 07:53 PM

I also meant to ask how do you get the backing sections off the dash board? The wood veneer has come off in many places and I want to remove the backing so I can re glue it back together.

Wodnek · #5 06-20-2015, 08:36 PM

I have not done it on a 126. On a 123 or 116 i used a small flat blade screwdriver and tapped the screwdriver with a rubber mallet behind it. That does not work on the glovebox. I remember the glovebox being a B.

Junkman · #6 06-21-2015, 08:06 AM

There are a bunch of little studs going into the trim. A plastic nut holds the trim to the dash. You "may" be able to get them off without pulling the dash but I think it unlikely unless you have at least the trim off to look at. It would be helpful to have a scrap dash to look at also. All of the vents have to come out. The rubber boot behind the center vents needs to be loosened.

That said, I have a friend that does antique furniture restoration and consequently works with veneer. He says that the hardest thing is to have patience and work the glue into where it needs to go. He cuts thin pieces of wood and just keeps moving the glue around until it covers what is necessary.

We cut some curved pieces that fit the face of the dash trim where mine was pulling off. The back side was notched to take a stick. The process is 1. test fit curved piece to dash 2. find stick that fits notch and reaches almost to the seat. 3. find padding for the seat so you don't poke a hole. 4. work glue into trim 5. position block and stick 6. slide seat forward to put pressure on stick and trim.

What glue to use is still open because after 3 or 4 years mine is coming off again. My friend mentioned some of the super glue gel because it takes longer to set up. I'll probably do the wood when the dash is out because there are 3 layers and 2 potential glue points. It will be much easier to refurbish the wood if it is on the bench.

funola · #7 06-21-2015, 09:07 AM

Here's how I did my 300D, RTV holding fine after 2 years.www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/342302-wood-trim-question.html

Carpenterman · #8 06-21-2015, 11:17 AM

Contact cement works best for me.

Junkman · #9 06-21-2015, 10:15 PM

The 126 is much more of a pita than what Funola had to do on the 123. The nuts will be difficult to reach and you don't know where they all are located unless you've done it before or have a sample removed dash to look at. The center strip basically goes across the entire dash. The left corner piece may be difficult to reach even with the gauge cluster and knee bolster out.

funola · #10 06-22-2015, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

The 126 is much more of a pita than what Funola had to do on the 123. The nuts will be difficult to reach and you don't know where they all are located unless you've done it before or have a sample removed dash to look at. The center strip basically goes across the entire dash. The left corner piece may be difficult to reach even with the gauge cluster and knee bolster out.

I found this pic of 126 trims on ebay and I see what you mean with the nuts. If he has to remove all the nuts, it would be a lot of work. But the OP says "the wood separates from the base the curves don't match.". Sounds like he can do a similar repair with RTV like I did, without going behind the dash. If he can do a good surface prep for the RTV to adhere by cleaning the old glue and foam (if any) off the wood and aluminum backing (if any), I think it will hold. Maybe use a rasp to do the surface prep. You don't need to glue the entire surface, just a dap every few inches and use a few sticks as a wedge till the RTV cures.

BWhitmore · #11 06-22-2015, 01:51 PM

W123: the metal backing for the wood trim has metal prongs that are twisted on the back of the dash holes to hold them in place. The only way to properly remove them is to reach behind the dash and twist the metal prongs straight with a pair of pliers. It is possible to pry them off from the front with a screwdriver, but then the metal prongs will need to be re-twisted when reattaching the metal backing with the re-glued wood. The best thing is to re-glue the wood with the metal backing still attached to the dash. I would recommend high strength upholstery cement applied to both the back of the wood and the metal backing. Let the cement set up for about 2-3 minutes and then re-attach the wood to the metal backing. If you do not have the patience to hold the wood in place for several minutes use a good quality masking tape to hold the wood in place while the cement dries (at least 2 hours).

SD Blue · #12 06-22-2015, 05:56 PM

The pic that Funola shows is an excellent reference. I've removed some from a salvage vehicle and it wasn't really difficult. The instrument cluster, both knee panels and glove box give most of the access. The only troublesome area was around the key switch as the steering lock is in the way.

I would definitely pull the trim to re-glue the veneer. It would be very hard to get decent looking results otherwise. Also, numerous clothes-pin style clamps are a big plus. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-capacity-steel-spring-clamp-39569.html

Gorilla glue worked for me but you definitely need to have everything in a place where you can work efficiently. They recommend clean, dampened surfaces for the best bond. You will have a little squeeze out but it is easily scraped with an x-acto knife.

97 SL320 · #13 06-22-2015, 06:17 PM

I used the E-6000 clear from TAP Plastics on the wood around the radio / Hvac on my 97 C 280. Used a bunch of those black and chrome clips you use for holding paper together. Craft / fabric places should have this glue, I got the pack of 5 small tubes rather than the big one that will dry out once opened.

I found that the wood changed shape a bit and would not go back on exactly correct. One place that was cracked oozed glue a bit, the thicker E6100 might have been a better choice.

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Phil · #14 06-22-2015, 08:49 PM

That picture really helps. It is hard to see how many of the studs are on the long piece at the top but the others are easy to see. The first piece that I want to do is the one on the right side end because the veneer has completely fallen off.

funola · #15 06-23-2015, 08:38 AM

This pic of the 126 wood trims shows nuts on studs. How are the studs attached to the wood? I also see glue marks. Are the wood pieces held with both nuts and glue? Are there aluminum backing plates that's not shown in this pic? The OP says "the one on the right side end the veneer has completely fallen off."

For that to happen, don't the nuts have to all come undone, the glue completely failed and/or the studs all separated from the wood?