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#1
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Timing Chain Tools
I have a chain guide tool on the way and have sent PMs/Emails off to rent a master link crimp tool but so far no response. If any of you want to rent your crimp please PM or Email me at the addresses in my contact info.
I know I could pound the snot out of it but I'm really not comfortable with that! Dan |
#2
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Dan, peening is done very gently, slowly. Small little hammer, many light taps, very gradually the end of the pin is mushroomed out so that it cannot come loose. Done correctly the mushroomed end of the pin is more secure than the crimped pin. It is easy to see when you are done - the mushroom shape is clear to see.
The major disadvantage is that it takes longer, say 20 minutes, vice just a few with the factory tool. Peening = art, tool = industrial time saver.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#3
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So how exactly do you peen the pin with the chain on the car and run around all the sprockets, etc??? I would think that would be rather difficult. Please share how it is done.
Thanks Glenn
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#4
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peening...
I used a two pound short handled hammer behind the chain and sprocket while I used a small ball peen hammer on the chain "studs". It mushroomed the ends perfectly and it took about 15 minutes.
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#5
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Exactly. I have a five-pound maul that I put behind the chain, so the impact of the small hammer is transmitted by the pin directly to the mass of the big hammer, and not against the camshaft gear wheel. Think of the bigger hammer as the anvil that you are pounding the pin against.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#6
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Would a ball joint press work instead of a hammer? I cannot see why not.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#7
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I don't think a press will work, unless it has the same type of bit to deform the head of the pin like the proper tool does, or something similar. The head of the pin is not very big.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#8
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I have one Dan, send me a pm, I'll send you a picture of it. I have the separator and rivet-er kit.
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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#9
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PM sent!
Dan |
#10
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Hey DieselPaul!
Not sure if my PM's are getting thru (I can't see how to check my "sent" messages). Anyhow, please send pics and we'll work this out.
Dan Stokes |
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