I just bought a 80 240 that came with a 'rebuilt' injection pump that someone gave up on installing..

And they had the fuel lines and return lines all mixed up, as well as what appears to be re-using of Injector Heat shields, and the rear I/P support bracket is missing.

SO, It is my intent to remove the I/P and confirm if they even set it right before bolting it on the block.

My questions are:
1) what am I looking for?

2) Is I/P installation for the 616 the same as this:Removal and installation of injection pump

3) will you raise issues/concerns that I may have no idea about until you mention them?

The car was run on bio-diesel, and sold as needing "a rebuild" due to low compression. My hope is that they gummed up the rings with the homebrew, and that is all that is wrong with the long block. They rebuilt the I/P.. I intend to make sure it is installed correctly, and see what happens. If need be I can put in another 616 or 617 as I have both.

Also I have replaced the fuel tank, as it smelled like varnish, and in the process of replacing all the rubber fuel lines, filters, and flushing the system. Additional thoughts welcome.
Thanks
Jason

Hi,glad to see someone finally bought that car,I looked at it but wasn,t ready for another project. Best of luck (In VT also outside montpeculier)

Mark

Lot's of little things that are not quite right, but overall it is a nice shell, and I'm into taking chances. This one appears as if it just had a few two many mechanics that were in a rush.

Maybe a compression check first? Not just frozen rings all the time. Scratched walls and excess wear can also be present. You might even have a dud cylinder compression wise.

I would check and adjust the valves or at least check for adequate clearance. Then do a compression check. Then try to get the compression up before doing much if feasible if low.

You may get a surprise if some previous people that worked on it did not know enough. For example the knowledge that valves need adjustment is almost lost to time with vehicles for a long time now.

With really low compression a good used motor may be cheaper overall. Strange someone would spend on a true rebuilt injection pump. Possibly just a lot of people that really did not know what they were doing. Also you do not have to remove the injection pump to find out if it is timed properly.

Basically do the drip test of the first injection pump element making sure that the lobes of the first cylinders camshaft are pointing upward at about a 45 degree angle. The drip test is described in the sites archives.. Keep well in mind that many install injection pumps on the wrong portion of the cycle and the drip test only works then when the first cylinders camshaft lobes are pointing downward. That is a wrong installation incidentally. I do not expect you to find this on your vehicle at the same time be aware it has occurred. More usual when the head has been off though.

With this car as you describe it injection pump timing issues should wait until you get some compression information. As the expression goes you do not want to flog a dead horse. Oddly enough the incompetence of what has been previously done you describe makes even good compression still possible.

Some People run their Fuel Injection Pumps without the Rear Bracket. No one has said that caused any sort of a failure.

That being said when I re-installed my Fuel Injection Pump is put it on with Rear Bracket.

I also had a stock gasket for the Block to Pump area. I thought the Sock Gasket was kind of on the thin side and used the Stock Gasket as a templet to make another gasket out of thicker gasket material.

At that site I noticed the pics of the timing marks on the Fuel Injection Pump at the site you posted were not clear.

See Post #14 for some diagrams a that are clear.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/368158-amateur-adventures-om617-injector-pump-replacement.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Start over from scratch-replacing the injection is dead easy outside of the mess of removing the oil filter housing. I did a 617 one without any direction, it was simple and straight forward. Make sure the pump was installed at the correct timing using the numbers on the crank damper and valve cover off to verify TDC (cam lobes up on #1). Once it is on and the lines sorted start priming it, lots of pumping ahead of you! It should fire up right away. If it doesn't, do the valve adjustment, compression, TEST injectors (you MUST to be sure). Pour some MMO down into the cylinders and let it soak or even Seafoam engine treatment to help clean things up. Check timing chain stretch too.
Be sure to hook up the feed and return lines correctly going to the fuel tank at the filter housings.

good info. Thanks!
I've found all 4 Glow Plugs were stone dead. Awaiting the arrival of injector heat shields, and IP gasket. Then the thing will run.

Get a Glow Plug Reamer or find some alternative method to clean out the carbon from the Glow Plug Holes. Discussed in the Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes, was in that process when finding the dead Glow Plugs.

Question regarding IP timing:

When the rack is fully advanced, I am not getting anything less than a constant flow of fuel out of the #1 Injector port with timing drip tool installed. (I was doing it with out the rack advanced and achieved 1 drip per second)

So guessing I have the timing pump off by one spline. Do I advance or retard the pump to get the flow to slow down to droplets?

Thanks,
Jason

I don't know if you advance or retard it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks.

Hopefully someone will chime in.. If not I will pull the pump and explore on my own tomorrow evening.

For future reference the following is my experience.

1) Moving the injection pump towards the engine advances the timing.

2) I had to advance the timing further to get the IP to stop dripping when the rack was at full load, vs being at no load/idle.

3)To accomplish this the IP needed to be removed, and the splined end needed to be rotated clockwise a whisker, and checked. Repeated twice and arrived at the one drip per second.

Your results may vary.