1987 300TD - My new Iron Horse - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

zu! · #1 07-18-2015, 03:27 PM

I'd been looking for a long time for a W123 300TD. Every single specimen I've seen was a total rust bucket. My well-loved W123 300D has served me well, and will continue to do so, but it pains me as whilst it still runs like a top at 770K km, the body and chassis is beyond redemption.

So when I saw this little beauty of a TD, albeit a 124, I literally ran to see it. Single-owner since new, NO RUST (I couldn't believe it), kept in heated garage and just 254,000 kms!

It was a beauty! The dash and inner panels were mint. "Like new" my daughter said. The body was amazing. And yes, no rust. Well except for one little spot near a window and one stone chipped spot on the roof.

She started cleanly. A little smoky in the morning. Blueish smoke. A little noisy. But after a few moments everything sorta quiets down. Everything but an annoying tap tap that follows the engine speed.

The takeoff is smooth! And fast! Before I know it, I'm hitting 90 but it feels/sounds like 50! I almost cannot believe the speedometer. I'm going to test it with a gps.

Cornering is amazingly tight! The PO had installed "eibach" springs or something like that. No wallowing around corners like my 123.

Air conditioning is nice. Not very cold, but cooler than without! Everything works but the drivers window, rear passenger window and drivers seat. I cleaned all fuses, and somehow the drivers window works now, but not the rest passenger window.

The drivers seat is something that was put in because the original stopped working after being pushed all the way back. I have the original, but only now noticed that all the wires were cut!'!! Why he cut them I don't know. Don't they have plugs?? Oh well at least the seat back is in the right position.

The engine. I heard that this kind of engine may have problems if previously overheated. The PO said that it never had. But the expansion tank was black with oil. And it has the green stuff in it. I know. I've got 3 liters of the new MB stuff and plan flush the green and clean the oily expansion tank as best I can before putting in the expensive MB stuff.

I've been driving it around today, and it's hot out now! But the temps are never above 85, even with aircon on on!! Have yet to try it on long hills. My 123, even with brand new nissen rad, is hot hot hot! 100 and maybe 105 when going uphills or fast.

There's rat poop in the engine bay, near the fusebox. Was wondering what the stench was. Must be poop and pee. I'm going to hose everything down when the engine has cooled down. It's diesel, I don't think I need to cover any electrics do I?

Oh and here are the pictures of course.

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zu! · #2 07-18-2015, 03:30 PM

The old iron horse. Next to its new brother.

The insides are like new!

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zu! · #3 07-18-2015, 03:32 PM

Yes, that is 263,000 km. much less than its 770,000 km older brother.

The dash is pristine!

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zu! · #4 07-18-2015, 03:34 PM

That was the good. Now for the bad...

one small rust spot. How do I stop this from spreading?!

the other spot on the roof.

missing speaker cover.

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zu! · #5 07-18-2015, 03:38 PM

Finally...the UGLY.

BLACK expansion tank

the top hose was soft this morning.

Can you see the #14 there? At first I thought it was #17. But I think it is #14. Oh well.

All the clips are rotted out or missing. Are they critical?

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zu! · #6 07-18-2015, 03:41 PM

And finally, a few more beauty shots.

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zu! · #7 07-18-2015, 03:43 PM

Is there a way to lift the wiper out of the way to wash the windscreen? I couldn't figure it out and couldn't seem to find anything in the manual about it. It's too long to lifted up and off the glass.

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Wodnek · #8 07-18-2015, 04:39 PM

Run the wiper to the top, and shut it off, so it is straight up, or just take the blade off to clean it.

I sure enjoyed my 87 300TD when i had it. Same color interior, but not as nice. The speaker grills are always falling off the doors, but I still had them.

I have a 87 300D and had a 87 300 TD, and both expansion tanks turned black over time. Both had the 14 head, and both about 260,000 miles (not km)

Feel like they are whittled out of a block of iron.

I have a 2005 E320 CDI now as a daily driver, though i still have the 87 300D as a backup. the 124 has that feel, the 211 does not. I love the creature comforts of the 211, but I don't think i drove anything that felt as solid as my 124.

treetops · #9 07-18-2015, 07:51 PM

Congratulations on your purchase, very very nice find. Please do get to the local MB dealer and get those fuel line clips... they are critical.

My 87 also has a 14 head, but I was able to find a 17 at a junkyard which I have in storage in case I need it. These cars are pretty easy to work on and there is a ton of information, how to's and tips and tricks here. Welcome and congrats beautiful car.

jay_bob · #10 07-18-2015, 08:01 PM

You need the info in this post to order the clips and spacers.

If you don't address this (about $25 or so in parts) you will need one or more hard lines at over $100/each...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/180100-steel-injector-lines-w124-133-om603-960-i6-300d-turbo-1986-87-a.html

From another thread I posted on this:

Please note, there is 2 to 3 thousand psi in the lines.

The lines vibrate and also they elongate with every injection pulse.

The clips and rubber pads are vital to keep the lines from not only rubbing against something (or each other) but also to keep the stress off the fittings at the ends.

If the line is improperly supported, the micro elongations that occur at every injection cause the line to fatigue at the fitting. This is where the stress is greatest, at a discontinuity.

This happened to my E300, the car was down 3 weeks waiting for a new line from Germany. PO zip tied the lines, and it's an OM606 so it was hidden under the cover.

Mxfrank · #11 07-18-2015, 09:41 PM

Nice. The tanks always get black on top, it doesn't necessarily mean anything. If you're concerned, you can test the coolant for exhaust gas. And don't get crazy about the "green stuff". It's not going to hurt anything.

Nor is the head a guaranteed problem. If it hasn't cracked by now, and you don't have the trap oxidizer at the top of the engine, it should be ok for the long haul. Here's a photo essay on the '87 300TDT exhaust, just for reference:

MBexh

Those speaker grilles are always breaking off, and they are soooo hard to find.

There is a "secret compartment" behind the battery that holds a lot of electronics. You want to get in there to see if there's mouse damage, but I wouldn't hit it with water.

One important thing to check, especially if you have an engine tick. Slacken the serp belt and manually work the rocker and idler wheel by hand. The rocker should have zero play front to back, but move smoothly up and down. The idler should turn smooth and the wheel should be square. Replace any worn parts pronto, because a failed rocker bearing can tear the timing case open.

Most important question: how is the rear suspension? The SLS in this car isn't hard to repair, but the parts are costly.

zu! · #12 07-19-2015, 12:55 AM

Okee-dokee...first off, thanks for the info on the injector line clips. I'm going to the dealer on Monday to see if they have them. And thanks for the tip about the windshield wiper too...will remember that the next time I wash the car.

I just finished flushing out all the green stuff. Took out the tank and tried to clean out the grease, but boy that stuff is stubborn! In the end I put it back still with a coat of black. It was encouraging that all the green coolant was just green with no floating oil in it. I used 2 bottles of orange (1.5L ea) mixed with 4.5L of water. Just right. This engine is lots easier to burp than my 123!

I wish I'd read your post about the sensitive electronics though! I sprayed the heck out of everything in there!! Cleaned out the drain tubes as best I could...it's much easier on the 123. I had water running between the fender seam and the bottom sill. Poked through the holes in the bottom and all. Man this thing hasn't been cleaned out in a long time!

Anyways, I spied a tail, right in the middle, under the wiper. Sprayed and sprayed and finally fished out a mouse, skin skeleton and all. I'll spare you the photo.

Still smells in there, and now this also explains the odd smell INSIDE the car as well! But I expect that to go soon.

Now about that tick... That's next on my list. Slacken the serp belt, I gotta figure that out. Not sure why it would cause a tick, but I'll give it a go! The steering pump hose seems to be weeping. And when I took off the lower plastic pan to access the rad the entire bottom of the oil pan was covered with a film of very light oil. I'll take a pic tomorrow.

SLS... Hmmm I have to figure it out. How does one check if it works? Most important question eh! Well, the springs are lower than what I think is normal. I cannot fit my arm between the tire and fender. The suspension feels real good...

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Rogviler · #13 07-19-2015, 01:47 AM

That is basically the twin to my 123 TD. Pretty cool to see. I like the burgundy with that color paint, but at least with the 123 it's nearly impossible to find spare interior pieces as they're all black, blue, or tan, those dirty rats.

-Rog

zu! · #14 07-19-2015, 02:49 AM

Just discovered...the clock isn't working as well.

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Mxfrank · #15 07-19-2015, 08:28 AM

[QUOTE=zu!;3499324]
Took out the tank and tried to clean out the grease, but boy that stuff is stubborn!

See my post on the internal construction of the tank for why it's impossible to clean:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/369376-whats-inside-header-tank.html

I think it's a combination of oil, algae and oxidized glycol coolant.

Now about that tick... That's next on my list. Slacken the serp belt, I gotta figure that out.

Here's a helpful photo:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_timing_cover/broken1.jpg

To slacken the belt, undo the bolt on the right in the photo. Insert a screwdriver or breaker bar into the hole in the black plastic gadget. Turn the assembly counter clockwise, stretching the spring. This removes tension on the bolt, and allows you to pull it out. When you release tension, the belt system will be slack. At the bottom of the photo, you can see the rocker, and the idler wheel is bolted to this. You can also see that the timing case has cracked open because the rocker bearing became sloppy.

SLS... Hmmm I have to figure it out. How does one check if it works? Most important question eh! Well, the springs are lower than what I think is normal. I cannot fit my arm between the tire and fender. The suspension feels real good...

He may have installed lowering springs, so you can't tell by static ride height. Pull the rear wheels and check the lifting struts for leakage. Then take the car down a bumpy road to make sure the spheres are controlling the rear. When you have time, suction out the hydraulic tank and replace a couple of quarts of absurdly expensive Mercedes fluid. And that's about it.