I am looking for some odd-ball pieces, and the most likely candidate is a junked 4 speed manual transmission. Application is a W123, 4 speed manual.

1. I need this small plastic cap which is pictured. I could not find the part number. I am guessing it either costs around $1 or a lot. If anyone has the part#, please let me know. I looked and could not find it.

2. I need the bottom part of the aluminum housing which has the 2 aluminum dogears which are used to hold the exhaust hanger. I have one broken ear off my tranny housing. I do not think I will be able to weld or JB weld one ear, but I can get machined a bracket to bolt on, but I need a template.

I can swap my injector service.

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the part looks like a case vent cap.

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I would say that is correct.

Mark, that's a Getrag (you probably knew that). If you want you can make a template off mine when you're here - notice I'm adding reasons for you to come this way. I have both ears and don't need either of 'em - but the trans works so well I'm not willing to trade you!

Would pics and/or measurements be helpful? I can do that, too. Maybe rubbings like a tombstone?

On that cap - I'll wager lots of Mercedes transmissions use the same cap, and maybe even differentials. It would be reasonable to keep that design rather than reinvent the cap.

Dan

Hi Dan,

lol,,,,

I would say the cap is common, just need a part # or to find one at the yard. My differential has one, but different size.

No, I need the dogears in my hands so I can get something machined ...

The breather consists of two parts

Cap, breather - MB # 000 261 02 82 Original, replaced by:
Cap, breather - MB # 000 261 03 82

Spacer Tube, breather - MB # 000 261 02 53

Just for reference the part that the aluminum dog ear is broken off of is Intermediate Flange - MB # 000 261 01 04 This "intermediate flange" shows up as used in a number of 717 transmissions - .400, .401, .402, .420, .421, .422, so it's unique to that family of GETRAG five speeds.

You can find this info on the EPC under the heading - CAR, Maj. Assembly GM - Manual Transmission , 717.400 - GL 275 A, 560 Intermediate Piece, Rear Cover, Joint Flange, parts #77, #80, and #5

Wowza ... THANK YOU !

Since this mild PITA issue is verging on light towards the end of the tunnel, maybe you can help me on this one.

The JB Weld "worked" in that it pulled out the ferrule. HOWEVER, the very end piece which is the square metal tip that goes "into" the tranny is buried in there.

Is there a way to remove that without taking the tranny apart? There is a "C" clip on the other side which I removed which in turn permits a metal tang to go free, however, that's it. Nothing else budged. I prefer to NOT take the tranny apart. I thought the "C" clip was access to a port or something.

Again, thanks for the various leads and info.

you're welcome, it's great you got the first piece out, persistence pays off!

The flexible shaft is at that end is driven by a squared of shaft that slides straight into a square hole in the drive gear so there shouldn't be too much holding it in there. I don't think you can get to it anywhere from the opposite side.

If there is nothing to grasp that would be almost worse case, so I'd try getting some hold to it maybe with forceps or something like customized long nose Vice Grips. Even then I think you are going to maybe have to wiggle and jiggle, probably probe and pry a bit to actually get it to move. You can't bang stuff too hard but tiny bits multiple times can get something loose sometimes. If you do get hold of it you'll want the get hold of the output shaft so that you can hold that driven gear steady while you twist back and forth on the broken stub. The shaft spun in one direction it's entire life so there's bound to be some wear in one direction that doesn't on the surfaces in the other direction.

Beyond that the only thing I can think of offhand is to make an insulated nylon or plastic washer to fit down in the hole make the center hole just so the end of the steel cable is accessible basically a couple mm round or square. Then hunt down a pin welder that body shops all use now, and stick the pin's head down the hole in the insulated washer and weld the pin head to the broken stub. Then you might be able to use the pin to pull the stub out. I don't think it would be easy to drill the stub or anything like that, spring steel's probably pretty hard and might not even be solid material.