I am new here, and done quite a bit of research and feel I am ready to remove my injection pump, but just would like some feedback and people to steer me right. everything I have read so far is in regards to turbo diesels and newer cars, nothing around my application.

Background:
I have acquired a 1979 Mercedes 300D (non-turbo), it was in a guys barn I did some work for him and he traded the benz for the work.
I was told from the start no one knew what was wrong but the place he brought it before parking it in the barn told him the Injection pump needed to be rebuilt, he didn't want to do it, so he parked it. Well the shop he brought it to did 50% of the work removing all the lines off the pump oil filter etc, injectors, the whole jazz and left it, but they did cap the lines and empty holes so that's fine.

At this point I have decided since it nearly off, and the shop said the pump needs rebuilding I am just going to go ahead and do it. I have a close friend that has a rebuild shop and he will rebuild the pump or check it out for me no problem.

My question begins with how do I start? where do I begin? my concern is timing, the rest is just wrench turning.
I have done tractor injection pumps before and timing is just line up degrees BTDC and the tractor pumps I have done have a gear to line up with marks and timing window with marks.

This Mercedes process seems to be very similar. My confusion is I would like to use a Pump lock but have no way of determining if I can with my pump.

To start my block numbers behind IP read : 617 011 09 010? (the last looks to be 010)
The tag on the pump is definitely: RW 375/2200 MW 19

What can you tell me from these numbers and combo?

My procedure to start pump removal is going to be done by removing the oil filter housing. after that my concern is where should the engine timing be before removing the pump? (does it matter) is It really just 24 BTDC and just pull the pump and voila. lol

since I don't think I can use a pump lock,
My thoughts are, set the engine at 24 BTDC on the compression of #1.
I would leave timing there and then slide the IP out.

After I have received rebuilt pump, reinstalling would be set the timing marks up on the injection pump and then reinstall, assuming the engine has not turned. tighten it down, and then I can fine tune the rest after that.

What am I missing? besides minor details of removal with brackets etc. I am just curious if on these older pumps you just rip em out and set em up and put them back in?

Any tips or tricks to make the job easier? again new hear and would love feedback!

Or if you have a link to a thread where these questions were answered for my application that would be great!

Thanks in Advance!

It is unforunate that they had already removed so much. Lots of times Mechanic mis-diagnose the problem ad the Fuel Injection Pump. Mechanics and other People tend to blame the item that they understand the least or don't know how to trouble shoot to the extent that they can seperate it from other issues.

The proceedure for removing and reinstalling the Fuel Injection Pump is the same as on the Turbo model. You will know when you are coming up on the Compression stroke as the front 2 cam lobes will make sort of a V with the long part or the Cam upwards.

It might be possible that one of our Members in your area has a good used Fuel Injection Pum instead of the expense of the rebuit one.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If your buddy's shop isnt a Bosch service center, I'd forget letting him do it. Find a good used one. There's also a 50% chance the pump you have is still good.

I JUST went through all of this. No need for a locking tool (yours likely wont have a slot for it anyway). Do what you said so far, but use the drip method to fine tune it which is simple as hell. Plenty of threads on that, or buy a Haynes or factory manual. Don't worry about the 1 drip per sec. or 1 per 30 sec. thing. Its all BS. Just get it near either and you are good to go. (you are within a 1/2 degree at either and tightening the pump up will change it slightly so there's no getting it perfect, whatever perfect might actually be)

You should list our location in your profile.

Thanks for the Prompt reply!

Yeah it is unfortunate this happened this way. From what I have heard is the Bosch in-line pumps really don't go bad, rotary pumps are more susceptible to failures. But at this point without the engine running and it nearly off and having no say or experience on how it was acting it is a shot in the dark.

The only thing the guy who gave it to me could tell me was that the car lost all acceleration and then would not go over like 45mph and then 30 mph. I mean I feel like fuel supply should have been checked. delivery pump, filters all should be checked first, but it seems this mechanic just went straight for the pump. Maybe the rack was not moving properly or who knows what.

My friend does a lot of in-line Bosch pumps for the John-Deere and other tractors, i would trust them, they look to be very similar so I believe it should be no problem at least for him to check it out.

Your suggestion is used pumps, I see on ebay they have used pumps for like $400 or $500, is this a safe deal or a good idea? My rebuild friend said he could do it for around that, all depends what it may need. The other shops around are like $1000 for a rebuild.

DieselGiant:
Thanks for the feedback on the camshaft, it is good reassurance when doing the job.

SuperD:
I read some threads on drip timing and it seems pretty self explanatory. I'll make sure to take your advice and do that.
Thanks for the reminder I added my location.

Any other info or tips would be great!

Also the mechanic took out all the injectors. This worries me, should I have this rebuilt since they are out? I was told it was $18 an injector to have them tested and balanced.

We have a Bransonic ultrasonic cleaner. I planned on cleaning the injectors and putting back in and seeing how they act. Or while they are out I should do something with them?

Thanks

That is the symptoms of clogged Fuel Filters and or Fuel Tank Screen (since it had those type of symptoms you ought to pull that anyway and check it).

If ou have any scummy graish to black stuff on the Screen or in that Plastic fuel filter you have someting growing inside of the Fuel Tank.

Fuel Racks on a running Fuel Injectio Pump do not stick unless one of the Plungers inside of the Fuel Injection pump gets stuck in one spot. And, then there is an obvious missfire because the Plunger is not going up and down.

Racks on the Mercedes Pumps stick when the Car has sat for like years and the Oil is all thick and scummy. But, even that does not happen frequently with Cars that have sat.

Scummy dried Fuel can mess with the Valves inside of the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump and keep them from seating.
If water was in the System the Piston in the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump is a metal to metal slip fit and the Piston can be pushed in one direction and then bind up on the Rust and stick in position and it will not pump.

No one has complained of on any of the Forums but when I worked in a Fuel Injtction Shop back in the old days I would occasionally run a cross a Broken Piston Spring inside if the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump.

Since you have access to a friend that has a Fuel Injection Pump Test Stand ask him to put the Fuel Injection Pump on the stand and see if it works.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Also you do not actually have to remove the Oil Filter Housing in order to get a Fuel Injection Pump off. That means you can pull a Fuel Injection pump off at the Junk Yared and not pay $500.

You do it by removing the rear lower Fuel Injection Pump Support Bracket from the Engine Block and of course the 3 front flange Nuts on the Fuel Injection Pump.

It is more difficult to get the Fuel Injection pump back in with the Oil Filter Housing on but People have done that also.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Used pumps from JY Engine are about $50, plus your time.


Charlie

sent from my pos computer

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

OK now that I started this question I am beginning to second guess myself in thinking maybe the mechanic was wrong and I could diagnose this, without removing injection pump. Maybe not.

So I first was concerned with the pump receiving fuel, and currently there is strong flow of fuel to the pump.

that being said what could be wrong with the pump given the circumstance of this thing not wanting to go over 30mph.

could this be the Vaccuum shutoff issue? is it possible it is not returning all the way cause it is seized? possibly acting against the linkage, creating a stop point.

Also do the non-turbos have an ALDA? there is a similar style piece on top of my pump. curious if it has the same role.

any thoughts?

what are some things to just double check on the pump or car before I pull the pump?

any advice is much appreciated. Thanks!

Ok... may seem insulting.. but if you check the archives... not so uncommon...
Be sure to check the throttle linkage and see that it is set to the distances given for each part in the FSM...
and check for rocks that might have rolled under your foot pedal... etc...
be sure your ' obvious ' basics are taken care of before spending a lot of time on things which are really hard to figure out... some people have gotten lucky....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

no insulted at all, you must understand sometimes its easier for myself to keep my questions in one place.

other questions weren't answered,
but you have answered my question in the fact that no new information is presented regarding what I have already read regarding the matter in the archives.

therefore, none of the obvious reasons apply here as stated a rock under the gas pedal or specs in within the FSM. they are set.

so looks like the pump is coming off.

How do you know you are getting good fuel flow?

Check:
Tank, pick-up/fuel line
Put two bottles of Diesel Purge through the IP.
Replace Primary filter
Replace Secondary filter
Take off fuel/lift pump and take it apart for inspection.
Make sure there's no air in the fuel lines.
Watch the throttle lever on the back on the IP while someone presses the pedal to the floor.


There's no ALDA.