Posting this after EXTENSIVE research. Looked through WIS and Google. Please! If someone knows of a simple oil pan gasket replacement on this car...HELP!!!
Does not look like a diy. All of front suspension must be detached basically.
It is a small leak just below the alternator.
Any good additives to stop this leak?
I appreciate any comments, clues, best wishes.... Anything... Thanks.
P.S.
Does the pan even have to come out? Enough clearance without removing the pan?

i think i read somewhere about un-hooking the motor mounts an you can lift the engine enough to clear the pan out. just use good lifting equipment and be absolutely sure of how you raise the motor.

but again, i just think i remember reading this about our engines. it is a common way to replace oil pans on other vehicles as well.

best wishes, good luck, someone else here will have a better answer!

Ian

The car is raised on stands. I have the engine raised right now. Drained some coolant and drained oil and disconnected the bottom radiator hose, inter-cooler hoses top and bottom, exhaust, and motor mounts. Engine is supported by a jack and a wood block under transmission bell housing where the oil pan connects. Started on bolts yesterday but have not dropped the pan yet. Doing this at night as it is very hot here in Vegas during the day. Will continue tomorrow.
Also changing the transmission conductor plate plug and engine belt tensioner pulley. Have some other issues with BAS warning and limp mode (hope it's related to the conductor plate plug...or wheel angle sensor as I had to remove the steering wheel to fix loose turn signal stalk). I replaced lca bushings, ball joints and upper control arms. The car still pulls to the right. Might need new tie rods. Also replaced sagging headliner.
I just hope there is enough clearance for the pan. Must keep track of all the bolts.

I'm listening on this one. I too have a small leak just near the bell housing. It never leaked until the transmission was removed and reinstalled.

If you are able to completely remove the pan, it will be a good chance to look/clean the oil pump screen and replace the oil level seal.

Can you post some photo's?

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1995 E300 Diesel

Took the pan down but not possible to remove old gasket and properly clean contact surfaces as the gasket is stuck to the oil pan. Need to remove "front axle carrier" as per WIS, but having a hard time locating part number for the four bolts holding it in place. No mention of part # in WIS. The search continues. Any help appreciated.

Are you sure you are not reading instructions for a 4matic? The E300 is rear wheel drive only, the front wheels are supported by the spindle, which attaches to the upper and lower control arms. There is no "front axle" on a RWD only car. 4matic will have a front diff and 2 half shafts similar to what is in the rear or what you'll have on any Japanese car.

The lower front subframe might be in the way of removing the oil pan. I think that is welded in, you will probably have to lift the engine for access.

Going from memory, it's been a couple months since I have been under the car...

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

You are absolutely right. But this IS what WIS calls it...front axle "carrier".
But, yes, we are talking about front subframe. It is held in place by 4 bolts and I have not seen any welding there. Torque for these is 130Nm even though they do not look like it.
I must find these bolts as WIS recommends replacement. Self tapping or what not. I have looked but could not find part number for these bolts. All WIS says is to replace with new ones. Will look again.

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1998 and 1999 E300TD

Do you have EPC, this is the dealer parts system. You can access this for free in the U.S. At epc.startekinfo.com. You need a credit card to prove you are in the U.S. But you won't be charged. This is the same system the parts counter at the dealer uses. You input your VIN and it gives you the exact configuration for your car as it left the factory.

A lot of times WIS recommends replacing critical bolts on principle. Sometimes this is vital (such as stretch to yield bolts like head bolts), other times it is more to make sure the bolt is installed with thread locking compound.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Found 4 bolts after a thorough search through EPC. I'll try to leave steering in place and remove lower control arms only. WIS has a different approach where you should drain power steering and disconnect some brake lines or whatever. I'll put support around rack and pinion and see in that's doable.

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1998 and 1999 E300TD

OK. The front subframe is out. My bolts are on the way. In the meantime I'll clean the pan and replace gasket. Steering rack I tied to the sway bar by some rubber tie downs. Had to drain transmission pan and disconnect one of the transmission lines to get the pan out. By the way, I used a motorcycle jack to support front subframe and pull it out. Very important. WIS has some special tools listed there for that task.

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1998 and 1999 E300TD

This gasket is a major pain to remove. Found a video on YouTube of oil pan removal on an older Mercedes with a MUCH smaller front subframe. Anyway, using a razor blade and 60 grit sandpaper to start with. Will finish with finer and finer grit. Elbow grease till done.

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1998 and 1999 E300TD

Replaced the gasket. Reinstalled the oil pan. Tightened bolts to spec. Waited two days. Looked today to find the same slow leak. It appears to be coming somewhere between the engine and alternator bracket. Can not see until parts are removed. What seals are in that area? Any ideas would help. SOS.

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1998 and 1999 E300TD