Just looking for some info. Have an 82 300D and the number 1 injector pump outlet is leaking. The fuel is coming from around the fitting not from the line itself. I have tried tightening the fitting but it seemed pretty tight to me so I didn't wanna over tighten it. From what I have seen there is a seal inside. Anyone have any input on changing these. Don't really find any info other than people saying they changed them. Guessing that means its easy to do but wanted to make sure before opening that output nozzle up and changing out the seals. Also are they just a copper crush washer? Thanks for the input.

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1982 300D

On those it is just a Copper crush washer. Make sure the leak isn't coming from where the line connects to the delivery valve before you replace the washer inside the delivery valve.

Yep, just to reiterate what Manny mentioned, as long as your car is a US model you'll have the "MW" pump which does not use a rubber o-ring to seal the delivery valves. It uses a copper crush washer. These usually don't leak, as the washer doesn't degrade with time like the rubber o-rings.

You'll want to clean everything in the area well with degreaser and let it dry, then run the engine to hopefully spot the source for certain.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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You can re-tighten it but use the proper torque which would be in the DIY Section where you use the Drip Method to flow time the Fuel Injection Pump.
Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

You need to verify for suer if the leak is coming from where the Arrow is pointing whic is on between the Delivery Valve Holder (the one with the Hex) and the top of the Flange which the Delivery Valve Holder serews in to or from under the Flange.

If it is coming from under the flange that is held down by the 13mm Nuts on each side of it you are not supposed to remove them as the position of that flange determins the Fuel out put for that Element. Rotating that flange or getting the shims under it out of place will change the amount of fuel it puts out.

There is 2 O-rings around the element and one of our Members had a leak their. So it is not impossible for it to leak under the flange.

Hopefully you do not have a leak there. But, if you find that other guys thread or come back to this one for instuctions.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Alright thanks for your input. I will verify again but am pretty sure its coming out right where the picture is pointing. I have pulled that apart in the past to check the IP timing after I changed the timing chain. So figured that's what caused it to start leaking now. I tried to tighten it down some more but it seemed pretty tight and I couldn't find the exact torque spec so didn't wanna over tighten. I remember that I did torque it when I checked the timing. Just don't recall what the torque was.

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1982 300D

I did the same as I forgot a new Crush wahser. I figured I try reusing it and if it leaked I would replace it. Lucky for me it did not leak.

The torque spec should be in the Links on drip timing.
Repair Links Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Anyone have any information on where to get these seals or have the size of the copper crush washer so I could try to find one at a store? I called this site and they ordered them for me first of September and said they had to get from Germany and today they just emailed me and said they have been discontinued and they couldn't get them for me. Any help would be appreciated. May try pulling it and if it is the copper washer try annealing it and see if that helps.

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1982 300D

I have been trying to source these too..I had a leak and stole one off my parts car and it sealed and I have the original in my hand with a dial caliper..

14mm x 10 mm x .5 mm

I have seen this size on E bay but they are simple copper..weather or not the original is some sort of special alloy, I do not know..

But it appears that the parts suppliers out there just don't have this specific part..

You can try the E bay stuff and see..they are saying it is for hydraulics and sealing purposes..
If it leaks, you wouldn't be out much..
Mike

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1978 300SD 303400 miles
1983 300D 341270 miles
1980 300SD 320456 miles

I have removed the #1 delivery valve several times to check fuel timing and had no leaks. I re-used the copper washers and didn't heat-anneal. I just rubbed them on 600 grit sandpaper against flat steel until shiny. If I lost one, I would try one from my boxes of Harbor Freight copper washers. It ain't rocket science (my day job).

If the guts of the delivery valve come out, check a diagram carefully to re-install. There is a thick disk that needs a certain orientation and you can barely tell in the FSM drawings. I had to do a Google Images search to be assured.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

They are copper colored but there is no way to know the alloy they are.

I don't know on Mercedes but some of the other Bosch Fuel Injection Pumps have Crush Washers that are more brass colored.

Any way putting in a pure copper crush washer should not harm anything. The worse that would happen is it might leak sooner.

It is however more likely that the crush washers need to be within a certain thickness range.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

M10 10mm Solid Crush Copper Washer Oil Brake Line Hydraulic Fitting Seal 10 PC | eBay

This is pretty close

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1978 300SD 303400 miles
1983 300D 341270 miles
1980 300SD 320456 miles

Alright thanks for the info I will order some like these its worth a shot. I had it apart like a year ago when I replaced the timing chain and adjusted the injection pump. It went that long before it started leaking and now the more I drive the worse its getting. I have the car torn apart rebuilding the front suspension and redoing the valve stem seals to see it those help with the oil use. Before I changed the timing chain and valve stem seals it used no oil between changes. Ever since those changes it is using 3-4 quarts every oil change so hoping I messed a seal up when I changed them.

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1982 300D

Just wanted to update this. I ended up buying a package of copper washer from Oriellys for brakes. There was one in the package that was really close so I used it and have had no leaks since.

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1982 300D