Changing oil filter 99-e300 td
 

I know simply changing an oil filter is not difficult, but not wanting to make some fatal error the first time I do it, is there a FAQ (with pictures) on the net somewhere?
A search here did not bring anything up.

Richard,
you need a special tool to open the cap where the oil filter is located. It is made by Matador of Germany (part # 606 589 01 09 00) and is sold by dealers by special order (takes a week or so - it is shipped from MB Chicago warehouse to dealer). You can get by using a M36 socket. The tool price is around $10-15.
You also need a TopSider (a canister which extracts oil via the deep stick using vacuum) - you can buy it at any boat supplies store - goes for around $50.
You also need oil - good oil. I guess a good one is Mobil 1 synthetic 0w40. It is hard to find in store. Best bet is to call Mobil (800-662-4525 and press option 3). They will look up a wholesaler in your area. In Michigan you can order it from Vesco Oil (800-527-5358) for $28.08 per case. You will need 2 cases (actually 8 quarts are need to replace the oil).
Finally you will need oil filter (Mann is a good one) Sells for $7-10 at PartsShop or BenzBin.

Once you have everything the acual job is quick. Open the cap (is located near the windshild - at the end of the engine). Pull hard to unsnap the oil filter. Use rugs so you don't soil the air intake manifold or area near by.

Unsnap the filter element off the plastic stick. Place new filter on. Remove the 3 o-rings from their locations on the plastic stick. Place 3 new o-ring on the plastic stick.

Assemble the TopSider as per instructions provided. Place the plastic tube into the deep stick all thne way down. Pump the Top Sider vacuum handle about 25 times. Release the snap which kept the vacuum.

Go and relax for 30 minutes. When you come back you should hear noise by the not having enough oil left in the engine. After the last drop is extracted place the oil filter element in its location. Use the tool or M36 socket to put the cap back. Then add 8 quarts of fresh oil into the engine.

Recycle used oil and reset the FSS. You're done. The second time will take you 35 minutes max.
Good luck.

One direction that is critical to follow on a 606 engine oil change is that when you put the oil in the engine, you have to either:
A. Use a funnel and direct the oil to the front of the valve cover so it flows down the timing case and into the crankcase, or
B. Allow the engine to set 15 minutes after pouring in the oil prior to start up.

This was noted in the 606 engine introduction to service manual.
failure to do so will lead to an engine run-away condition due to the valve stem seals being covered in oil and allowing the engine to run on the new oil. Had this happen to me once, it's quite a show, wouldn't recommend anyone trying it out to see if it really happens.
Gilly

THAT is what I mean by FATAL mistake! (G)

Luckily when it happened to me, the engine was fairly new. I'd hate to see it happen to a high miler. It happened to me once, the thing went what seemed like wide open throttle for what seemd like a good 15-30 seconds, also seen it happen to another tech, but only for maybe 5 seconds, and not up as high an rpm as happened to me, so he either waited a little while or the oil was being directed forward, but only somewhat. I couldn't see the other side of the shop for about a minute after it happened, real bad thick smoke.
Gilly

gillybenztech,

I have changed the oil twice in my 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, and I guess I have been lucky. Or maybe I am just slow pouring the oil back in (Delvac 1 is kind of pricey so I let the gallon jug drain for a long time trying to get every last drop out), but given the fact I was ignorant of the pending disaster if I was in a hurry, I guess that still counts as having been lucky. Thanks for the information, I will always make sure I get the last drop out of the jug from now on.

I am curious though about how enough oil leaks in the guides past new seals to cause the event. Are these components different than they were on the old Diesels, or would this happen to them too if enough oil puddled above the valves? Seems like an odd thing to have happen.

Thanks for the pointer though, Jim

Richard U - I recently changed my oil in my '99 E300TD using the topsider and the funnell. I didn't know about the run away engine revs but used the funnel so as to not make a mess of things. I guess I got lucky. However, when re-installing the new oil filter on the shaft that comes out remember to change the O rings (n=3) and put a little oil on them. The whole apparatus kind of 'snaps' back into place and the cover is torqued to 25 NM or about 18 ft-lbs. There is a DIY section somewhere in this site (I think) that shows an oil change. Might not be the same version of car but it was very close.

Jim:
I will make it a point to find the 606 engine intro to service book. The warning in there also explains why there is this potential. If you simply make sure the oil is poured in the oil hole towards the front of the valve cover (towards the timing chain) you don't need to worry about waiting for the oil to flow into the crankcase.
Gilly