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OM603 Cylinder Head 1987
I'm new to these 6 cylinder engines , my Brother bought one and now it's weeping coolant at the right rear corner of the cylinder head / engine block joint .
He says it needs a new / different head ? . We shouldn't have the original head planed ? . Casting #'s I should look for and where are they , etc. ? I know some here have gone through this already . TIA , I'm in So. Cal. if any good shops or links etc.
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#2
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I would pull the head first and see what you got before shopping for a head. May just be a breach in the HG.
But to your point there were several casting numbers in the 603. The standard from 87 was the #14 and these are known to fail. From what I have read they tend to fail - cracks between the valve openings, or valve to pre-chamber opening is the usual failue mode - usually as a result from overheating. There is a #17 and then a #22. I think the 22 was used on the 3.5 L for the 350SD/S350 of the early 90s. *still rolling along on my #14 head....
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
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Casting #'s
Thanx Jay ! .
I thought to pull it apart for a looksee first too but it's _his_ car , I assume you know how that goes.... . So , where to look for the # 14 ? . Under the rockerbox or externally ? . TIA ,
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#4
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There is a part number stamped on the head near the injectors and intake. The second or third group of numbers will be 14, 17, 22 and that is what's being referenced. I agree to take the head off first, but if it's a #14 you might just replace it while it's off. Some believe the #14 is so brittle it might crack from the first heat cycle after being removed and replaced. Replacing the head with a #22 gets you angled injectors, so understand that the injectors and prechambers will be different than a 17 or 14. If you replace the head with a 22 and use the revised head gasket, you won't have cracked head issues or leaking oil gallery issues (that's the other issue with these heads).
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it! '85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold* http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png |
#5
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Mercedes increased the gasket deck thickness on the later heads due to field reports of gasket failure. ( like yours. ) #14 heads are not rigid enough, reason for increased thickness. However not all failed.
Mercedes has gasket face to valve cover measurements for the heads and must not be machined if already at limit, as it reduced deck rigidity and alters chain/cam/crank timing. These dimensions can be found at StarTek site.
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[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ] "A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money." |
#6
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Here you go. It's right under the air horn as its called. Mine looks like it's a 17, but it's really a 14. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1987 300TD 1984 300D 755,000 KM and going strong BC Canada |
#7
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GREAT Help !
And I THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH ! .
Now I have a starting point . A Month or three ago we found an OM603 in a Junkyard , the car was clean but wrecked , my Brother commented ' maybe I should buy this engine ' as he was worried he'd have this exact issue . The turbo and other engine accessories had all been stripped off but they only wanted $250 for it fan to flex plate . Onwards , always onwards .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#8
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Check the casting # on the junk yard engine. I got a #17 head complete(valve cover to bottom; cam, sprocket, valves, tappets...etc and injectors) for 150 plus pressure testing for another 200 or so. It tested fine, true, not warped and had enough material to be machined if need be. Not too bad comparing to prices on the web or new.
If it works out, cheap insurance.
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Treetops 06 E320 CDI 127K Miles 87 300TD 231K Miles 99 E300 269K Miles-Sold |
#9
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BAD NEWS
That Junk Yard car is long gone ~ here in Sunny So. Cal. , they rotate 'em out of the rows in about two weeks even if untouched .
I looked at it to - day and , sure as shootin' , we've got the # 14 casting head so now I'm ' On The Hunt ' for another one . I sure hope I don't get suckered into doing the head job , I have a yard full of dead vehicles right now . Like older Mercedes diesels ? ?CHEAP? (as in scrap value) ? looky here : https://www.kenporterauctions.com/vehicle_listing_temp.asp?auctionid=367&searchval=Automobiles TO-MORROW FOLKS ! .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#10
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Follow Up
First allow me to say THANK YOU to the several Members who PM'd me with good used # 22 heads .
@ $700 each they were a bit over my $ range . So , back to my local Pick-A-Part Junk Yard I went and found another 1987 300SDL with the same color paint and upholstery , it had been rear ended by a semi so I was able to buy the # 22 cylinder head complete , the rocker box and oil pan all for $35 , I hied the head off to my Machine Shop who tested it , touched up the valves and installed a full set of the up graded valve step oil seals , it's all buttoned up and running fine again . Whew . Got the entire job done for under $1,500 . I have a few 'photos if anyone cares....
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#11
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Please post pics --- I like to see what other forum members are doing.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#12
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Just FYI to anyone else, there are No 15 and No 18 heads around too... I have owned both.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#13
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#18 or up is considered a definitive fix for the cracking. The older castings are still prone. #14 is the worst for sure.
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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it! '85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold* http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png |
#14
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#20
Quote:
#20 also...I have one .
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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered |
#15
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Quote:
Personally, I wouldn't pay more for a #22 casting over a #17 all else being equal. Personally, I wouldn't reinstall a #14 casting that shows to cracks. Torquing the head could stress latent cracks into... uhh... post-latency. Sixto 83 300SD |
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