Am still working toward getting the '83 300D back running. However really think I need to try to start it up on a separate fuel tank. What have you used that fits in the relatively small space under the hood? Also what is the size of the metric rubber hose that is used on the feed to the clear filter and the one coming back to the metal return line to the tank?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions, as this looks like a tough space to fit a useful "tank" of any kind !!

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

A ~2 liter apple juice bottle. BTDT worked great for a diesel purge. 2 liters is about half a gallon. Should be able to drive 5 miles on it safely.

__________________
'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png

4 inch PVC pipe with end caps,,, is what I used as a prefilter on one car that had some nasty french fry particles in the fuel tank due to improper filtration techniques. got tired of replacing those tiny prefilters that I made one humongous one,,,

__________________
Closing the store
Benzbonz.biz on your smart phone or tablet.

For testing purposes, perhaps the washer fluid tank if you clean it well, before and after.

__________________
1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

Look for a Tecumseh or newer Briggs & Stratton lawn mower or most any lawn tractor tank that uses a hose outlet. ( Some mowers have the carb bolted to the top of tank, this won't work so well. I've got several different types I use to test run engines.

Another possibility is a 1 or 2 gallon oil / antifreeze jug. On the top, cut holes large enough to stuff the hoses through, maybe make one with a little slit on the edge to act as a vent. The cap will still be free to use as a filler. I have one rigged up with a electric fuel pump and GM fuel injection fittings that I used to test an engine at the scrap yard.

Regardless of what you chose, be sure to strap the tank down so it does not slide / fall over.

works well too. Not sure of your cars fuel hose lengths, but on my om603 I was more or less able to run them right into the jug. OM606, I had to make my own version. Some zip ties or bungee cord can hold it down.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/131809d1440459606-e300td-diesel-purge-proceedure-solved-img_20150824_184544.jpg

__________________
Treetops
06 E320 CDI 127K Miles
87 300TD 231K Miles

99 E300 269K Miles-Sold

5/16th hose will fit right over the fittings

Use whatever clean container out of recycling strikes your fancy. Hell, it could be a dog dish if you could prevent slopping.

Ive used water bottles, oil jugs, juice containers, milk jugs, you name it.

__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

Thanks to all for your prompt replies. This is so typical of this forum, such a great bunch of people !!!

Will get back with what worked for me, once I get it running. Hopefully won't be too long.

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

Someone beat me to it, but the hose is 8mm which happens to be virtually identical to 5/16. A little tidbit I picked up. I have a small fuel cell (2 gallons) under the hood of the S-10 but I don't think that will be helpful to you.

Dan

I like using a water bottle on my 83 300D because if fits nicely right beside the hoses.

Earlier I said that I would update the thread as to what worked for me. The tank I finally settled on was once a 96oz jug of Power Service 'Diesel Supplement'. The cap was large enough in diameter to easily allow two holes to be cut by an appropriate cork borer tool. I would have preferred to have had metal lines; but due to the short time line that I was working with, I had to go with some 5/16" poly with 5/16" ID rubber fuel hose to tie it all together. Unfortunately I'm now having to deal with a severely leaking hand primer pump (old orig white handle style).

Have a black push-button style on a parts car that I need to move over, if I can ever figure out how to get a wrench on it !!!

However we are slowly making progress.

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

Channel lock pliers w/V notch jaws. I wrapped the jaws w/friction tape to 'soften' the 'bite'. Use very carefully to grab the base of the pump.

And, position the channel locks so they are acting like a pipe wrench. This way they are self locking to an extent. If you go the wrong way , you are trying to keep the jaws tight and rotate at the same time. ( RE: if you have a pipe wrench going the right way it won't bite , same holds true for channel locks. )

I used Vice-Grips but didn't worry too much about leaving marks - though it didn't seem to leave much damage. Whatever you choose it's just a screw off/screw on deal. Simple.

Dan

Also, am I correct in thinking that the two styles of hand primer pump are interchangeable into the top of the lift pump base? Same threads etc....

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150