In the first post, you said the pulsing was there before the change out and that changing these parts didn't complete cure the issue....

Have you had the hydraulics flushed and bleed?

Moving the calipers pistons back, in order to install fresh pads could have forced air/crud into the system...As the piston can move in and possible tare the seal and if the boots are cracked it can cause stuff to get in....

I would inspect the calipers for torn boots, if they are torn, rebuild/replace calipers. I would then flush n bleed the system. Could be an issue with the master cylinder as well.

If that doesn't cure the issue, I would also inspect the vacuum system. There could be a bad check valve or worse the booster could be bad. This could cause a pulse because of vacuum not being constant to the booster...

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Brakes were working fine at the start of this. I decided to replace all 4 rotors, all pads and 2 front calipers. The rear calipers were Bendix, The 2 new front calipers were ATE as that was what was there to start. Unfortunately, I bought all the pads for Bendix calipers, which are thicker than the ones for ATE calipers. After a few weeks I realized my mistake when I felt the hubs and they were too hot to be normal and the pulsing had started. I put ATE type pads in the front to correct that problem. Pulsing persisted so I again replaced the rotors. Pulsing is less but still there as the car comes to a complete stop. Next step will have to be new pads again to go with the new unwarped rotors. I will bleed the brakes and check the calipers again. Pulsing only occurs between 20 and 0 miles per hour. No pulsing when brakes are applied at cruising speed.

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1985 300TDT
2013 E350 Bluetec

Maybe you just need to drive it and let everything break in?

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Yeah that's what I thought too but after 600 miles still no change.

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1985 300TDT
2013 E350 Bluetec