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  #1  
Old 11-05-2015, 10:39 PM
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w124 replacing rear axle shafts...is there a step by step?

replacing rear axle shafts on my 87 300D & I was wondering where I might find a step-by-step tutorial on how to do it

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  #2  
Old 11-06-2015, 12:06 AM
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Pelican Technical Article - Mercedes-Benz W124 - Axle Replacement


Click on the "Tech Info" tab at the top o the page, amazing the info there.

Charlie


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Old 11-06-2015, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Pelican Technical Article - Mercedes-Benz W124 - Axle Replacement


Click on the "Tech Info" tab at the top o the page, amazing the info there.

Charlie


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My w201 has E12 headed bolts instead of the E10 specified in that article - and the most important thing is to fit the buggers with loctite!

GKN for example are known to not supply bolts with the pre-taped locking so grab a tube of glue before you start.

On my W201 you can also access and remove the axles with out removing the disc brake.

I also find it easier to leave the wheel on the car - with weight on ground - hand brake on to help remove the 30mm 12 point nut on the outer end of the axle. 1 X small extension + 1 X grolly bar + lots of bad language and stubbornness...

Copper drift or block of hard wood (think hammer handle) can also be used to withdraw the axle from the hub. But the puller approach is best.

Tie wrap the loose differential end of the axle to the subframe before you start trying to move the other side. Best not to let the axle drop even if it may now be no good.
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  #4  
Old 11-06-2015, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by davidlee View Post
replacing rear axle shafts on my 87 300D & I was wondering where I might find a step-by-step tutorial on how to do it
are you replacing it, or just rebooting?
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  #5  
Old 11-06-2015, 04:22 PM
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Couple things,

it's easier on the driver's side if the exhaust is lowered or removed, have a couple new hanger donuts on hand when you rehang it

if you don't have an impact remember to unbend the securing tabs on the axle nut before trying to break it free, if you have an impact it will bust those tabs free easily

if you don't have an impact for the axle nut, heat it up just enough to soften the blue thread lock, there is a large surface area between the nut and the axle that can be a bear to break loose.

Use a good quality 30 mm 12 point socket, the nut is rather shallow so you need to pay attention to it's interface with the socket.

I jack the car, remove the wheel and then use a large stout steel bar braced between a couple lug bolts and the ground to counterhold the axle nut when removing that. A 1/2" breaker bar with some sort of extension will probably be needed.

The 6 axle-to-diff flange bolts can be either Allen heads, or XZN or TORX of a couple different configurations, have a good quality and correct tool for them.

I've found it is much easier to use an impact gun with a long extension to reach from the wheel well to the fasteners at the diff flange. I use the same bracing bar to counter hold the axle when doing this, usually you can reach two fasteners , then you need to rotate and reset the counterhold for the next two.

Thouroughly clean and degrease the flange fasteners so you get a good clean bite on them and avoid the chance of stripping them.

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