I've looked in the parts book, but I only see the kit. Is the heater element only still available? Winter's coming!

From what I have read on the verious Mercedes Forums (I don't remember the details) some of the Aftermarket Block Heaters have a smaller OD in the threaded area and need a threaded adapter Ring. The threaded adapter rings are difficult to find as a seperate part.

So if you buy one be sure the Adapter Ring comes with it. I don't know if they can be had seperate or not or if they are available from Mercedes.

I also cannot remember if the stock Block Heater Cord fits the aftermarket Block Heater.

For more info: DIY Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'd advertise here for WTB used.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Are Block Heaters easly to remove?

I know on mine I looked and did not find the Block Hetrer. Abeout 3 years later I was under the car and found the Cord twistied together and tucked under the radiator and traced it back to where the Block Heater was.
Not a lot of room under there to work in to remove one. Worse if it is hard to get out. Othewise one could be had from the Junk Yard.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Last time I looked, aftermarket block heaters were available.

One type had a circular connector with a nut that screwed on to hold it in place. The other type had a rectangular connector that just pushed on. On my car, I have the latter type, but the wrong cord!

I should buy a new cord! But instead, I have a magnetic sump heater that sticks on the oil pan. It has one good feature. It automatically gets removed if I forget to remove it

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Hmpf not easy to find for 220V 50 Hz domestic supplies over here

(Not that you're probably worried about that)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The Hz shouldn't make a difference (only affects motors etc)

Maybe buy a transformer ??

Or maybe the 110V units will heat up quicker on 220

Or put in two block heaters and connect them in series!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

The trap catalyst on my '85 300D-T interfered with installing a block heater so I got an aftermarket heater for the lower radiator hose. It drew more current but worked well.

I would try removing the block plug first. It is on the passenger side. When I put a replacement engine in my 1985, I wanted to swap the 1985's block heater over. I tried removing the plug. I had plenty of room with the engine out of the car on a stand, but I was unable to budge it. I bought a big allen wrench at Ace (19 mm I recall) and it wasn't cheap ($17?). I used a 3 ft cheater pipe on it, sprayed penetrant, propane heat, hammer, and it didn't budge. I read that is typical. Perhaps a gas welder's heat would free it, but I didn't care that much. Anyway, no need for the heater yet since the replacement engine has excellent compression (>400 psig all cyl) and starts easily on the coldest morning, though I haven't tried a Tahoe trip.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Plus you don't have to worry about fires or getting shocked from the darned thing if u don't have one!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I was (reliably?) informed a few years ago that if I were to use a 110V unit over here I'd burn it out. 'Cos I'm not so good with electrickery I reckoned it was best not to try...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

You would - I posted the part about a 110 heating faster tongue in cheek! Not a good idea! Two in series or transformer would work but there are no doubt better options.

Hard to imagine there are no 220V block heaters available in Europe. Or maybe it just the ones that fit our old cars?

Perhaps temperatures are just not low enough in Europe for there to be much of a market? Even here in Canada (temperatures sub zero C for months), I almost never use a block heater.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

It may or may not burn out, depending on how much heat is being absorbed by the coolant thus cool off the heater element. If it does not burn out, it will just put out twice the power. I believe a 120 V Mercedes block heater is 400 w, if run on 220 V, it will put out 800 W. Never run a block heater unless it is submerged in coolant, it will burn out!

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

My electrical knowledge is rusty, but if you double the voltage I think you double the current. I=V/R. Power (wattage) is I^2*R, so if current doubles, wouldn't you get 4 times the power output (wattage)? 1600watts if it doesn't burn out first.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

You are right, I was mistaken. You would get 1600 watts if it doesn't burn out.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked